Page 1 of 1
Cornet "Restoration" (Most likly WILL end up worse
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 10:11 pm
by Tubaing
Here is my victom. I have never soldered before and am going to attempt to take it apart and put it back together. This is just for practice, but it may come out alive (anything could happen!) Any suggestions for a beginner at soldering (besides getting a smoke detector?)
Almost forgot, it's a Bundy
Re: Cornet "Restoration" (Most likly WILL end up w
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 10:42 pm
by Dan Schultz
Tubaing wrote: Any suggestions for a beginner at soldering (besides getting a smoke detector?)
If you are going to take it all apart, strip the lacquer first. 'Aircraft' brand stripper. If that doesn't work, try 'Easy-Off' oven cleaner. Once you 'fire it up' the lacquer will be a bear to get off... and you're sure to burn it, anyway.
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 10:55 pm
by runelk
before you take her apart, fix the bell stem first.
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:09 pm
by SplatterTone
I don't have any advice, but I will suggest a question: I have done a little (very) amateur messing around with a euphonium made in India. I think there is a significant variation is the melting temperature of different kinds of solder. I vaguely recall there was a Tubenet thread discussing solder types and melting temperature. High temperature solder can be a real bitch to work with. So, I would suggest asking about what kind of solder to use (which I kind of just did) ... or if anyone has the link to that Tubenet thread handy (if it exists and I'm not just dreaming).
Oh yeah ... I will offer a little advice. Clean the joint. Then clean the joint. And finally ... clean the joint.
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 11:43 pm
by Dan Schultz
SplatterTone wrote: I think there is a significant variation is the melting temperature of different kinds of solder.
Everything on that trumpet except for the valve casing assembly will fall apart at a little above 400 degrees.
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 12:46 am
by windshieldbug
DON'T USE TOO MUCH HEAT! If you're going to try a little propane torch, it's very hard to figure out how hot the flame is by guessing... and too much can melt the darn brass as well as the solder... take it slow, and don't get stuff red unless you mean to anneal it...
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 1:11 am
by pulseczar
Solder in a well ventilated room with a fan and a mask.
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 7:57 am
by Tubaing
pulseczar wrote:Solder in a well ventilated room with a fan and a mask.
The plan is to solder outside, on concrete.
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 9:44 am
by windshieldbug
Keep some water handy, I have used a spray bottle. Remember, heat goes up. And have metal tools that you can use to grasp/hold with.
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:18 am
by tubaguy9
SplatterTone wrote:I don't have any advice, but I will suggest a question: I have done a little (very) amateur messing around with a euphonium made in India. I think there is a significant variation is the melting temperature of different kinds of solder. I vaguely recall there was a Tubenet thread discussing solder types and melting temperature. High temperature solder can be a real bitch to work with. So, I would suggest asking about what kind of solder to use (which I kind of just did) ... or if anyone has the link to that Tubenet thread handy (if it exists and I'm not just dreaming).
Oh yeah ... I will offer a little advice. Clean the joint. Then clean the joint. And finally ... clean the joint.
A tip for cleaning the joint: Possibly use Q-tips...
Re: Cornet "Restoration" (Most likly WILL end up w
Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2007 10:19 am
by tubaguy9
TubaTinker wrote:Tubaing wrote: Any suggestions for a beginner at soldering (besides getting a smoke detector?)
If you are going to take it all apart, strip the lacquer first. 'Aircraft' brand stripper. If that doesn't work, try 'Easy-Off' oven cleaner. Once you 'fire it up' the lacquer will be a bear to get off... and you're sure to burn it, anyway.
Either use them for stripping, or use hot water...