Playing with Plexiglas
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- windshieldbug
- Once got the "hand" as a cue
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Make yourself a backstop between yourself and the tympani and save your own ears!
- SplatterTone
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Weld up some mighty tough multi-pane windows, maybe a french door.
Good signature lines: http://tinyurl.com/a47spm
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- 6 valves
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
That's some cool stuff, Wayne. I especially like the swing.
Ray Grim
The TubaMeisters
San Antonio, Tx.
The TubaMeisters
San Antonio, Tx.
- willbrett
- bugler
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
After you sand those edges down with the 1500 grit paper (and I strongly recommend wet-sanding them with some automotive grade wet-sanding paper), try hitting the sanded surfaces with a high speed buffer and some mildly abrasive buffing compound. You should be able to get them nearly perfectly transparent.
I use this same technique to polish out yellowed car headlights, and it works like a charm.
FWIW,
-Brett
I use this same technique to polish out yellowed car headlights, and it works like a charm.
FWIW,
-Brett
- The Big Ben
- 6 valves
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
It has been my experience that the easiest way to get a rough Plexiglass edge smooth is to use a propane torch on it. I learned this from a very experienced commercial Plastics fabricator whose company mainly made retail displays.willbrett wrote:After you sand those edges down with the 1500 grit paper (and I strongly recommend wet-sanding them with some automotive grade wet-sanding paper), try hitting the sanded surfaces with a high speed buffer and some mildly abrasive buffing compound. You should be able to get them nearly perfectly transparent.
Get the edge the shape you want it and go as fine as 220 grit paper. Use a torch with a wide flame (a paint removal nozzle is good) and just move the torch over the finish until it is as smooth as you want it. Watch what you are doing and fan the heat over the edge so that you can barely see a change with every pass. Move it quickly. You don't want to burn it.
If you don't believe me, give it a try on a piece of material. You have nothing to lose because your supply is so large. If you want to use the smoother grades of paper and then finally a buffer, go at it. If that's what gives you the edge you want, it's your project. You can save a lot of time by using a torch. Give it a try.
- ken k
- 6 valves
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Very cool ideas.
I use a sheet of plexiglas on my music stand at outdoor concerts to keep my music from blowing away (obviously not 1 1/2" think however)
ken k
I use a sheet of plexiglas on my music stand at outdoor concerts to keep my music from blowing away (obviously not 1 1/2" think however)
ken k
B&H imperial E flat tuba
Mirafone 187 BBb
1919 Pan American BBb Helicon
1924 Buescher BBb tuba (Dr. Suessaphone)
2009 Mazda Miata
1996 Honda Pacific Coast PC800
Mirafone 187 BBb
1919 Pan American BBb Helicon
1924 Buescher BBb tuba (Dr. Suessaphone)
2009 Mazda Miata
1996 Honda Pacific Coast PC800
- ken k
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Do you feel you need bulletproof glass when you play???schlepporello wrote:I managed to grab a few thinner pieces of scrap simply for that purpose. Not that I'd ever use them myself, as I have another solution to that. But some of my fellow musicians could surely benefit from the thinner pieces. The only problem I have with these thinner pieces other than them not being bullet resistant is the fact that they still have the protective paper on both sides. I don't know if they are clear or tinted.
You could make a "Schleppmobile" similar to the "popemobile"
Just who do you play for???

k
B&H imperial E flat tuba
Mirafone 187 BBb
1919 Pan American BBb Helicon
1924 Buescher BBb tuba (Dr. Suessaphone)
2009 Mazda Miata
1996 Honda Pacific Coast PC800
Mirafone 187 BBb
1919 Pan American BBb Helicon
1924 Buescher BBb tuba (Dr. Suessaphone)
2009 Mazda Miata
1996 Honda Pacific Coast PC800
- Tubaryan12
- 6 valves
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Yes, but it may not be the best choice over the long run. Super glues work best on small area, closely fitting parts. These type of adhesives also generate a good deal of heat during cure when large amounts are used (I know...I burned a hole in a shirt at workWill the Super glue hold it?

For security, some type of mechanical fastener should always be used with larger projects using multiple pieces. Plexiglass dowls would be cool. Small metal ones with the plastic welding would be even better.
If the base in interlocking ( " X " shaped) no glue would be needed at all. Just Make the base with the interlocking parts and then drop the table top on it with silicone rubber discs to prevent slipping.
- SplatterTone
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
I got my nerd glasses at stupid.com
http://www.stupid.com/fun/F-NERD.html
http://www.stupid.com/fun/F-NERD.html
Good signature lines: http://tinyurl.com/a47spm
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- 6 valves
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
I have plexiglass ports (windows) in my boat and I hate the way plexiglass gets so scratched so easily.
I had a lexan (tinted) overhead hatch on the boat that was damaged so badly it had to be replaced.
Eastern Shore Glass had lexan in the tint I wanted. For the price of material, They used my old hatch as a pattern and cut the new lexan hatch perfectly to shape for me and drilled all new holes just the right size, in just the right places to attach all necessary hardware. I love those guys!
I had a lexan (tinted) overhead hatch on the boat that was damaged so badly it had to be replaced.
Eastern Shore Glass had lexan in the tint I wanted. For the price of material, They used my old hatch as a pattern and cut the new lexan hatch perfectly to shape for me and drilled all new holes just the right size, in just the right places to attach all necessary hardware. I love those guys!

We pronounce it Guf Coast
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- 3 valves
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
I really like the plexiglas swing. Very neat!
- willbrett
- bugler
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Because I do it every day...
I'm telling you, scratches in Plexiglas can be fixed in just a few minutes... a little bit of wet sanding, and some high speed buffing is all it takes. Chrysler and Volkswagen headlights are the worst.
(And I own one of each)
-Brett
I'm telling you, scratches in Plexiglas can be fixed in just a few minutes... a little bit of wet sanding, and some high speed buffing is all it takes. Chrysler and Volkswagen headlights are the worst.
(And I own one of each)
-Brett
- Todd S. Malicoate
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
I don't understand the reference...composite type automotive headlights (the ones with the replaceable bulb in the back) are nearly all composed of polycarbonate plastic, not Plexiglas.willbrett wrote:Chrysler and Volkswagen headlights are the worst.
Todd S. "who sells them every day" Malicoate
- willbrett
- bugler
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
With no intentions of starting any sort of argument here, and I usually feel that Mr. Malicoate is 100% correct, and many times says things that I feel like writing, but am too chicken to write...Todd S. Malicoate wrote:I don't understand the reference...composite type automotive headlights (the ones with the replaceable bulb in the back) are nearly all composed of polycarbonate plastic, not Plexiglas.willbrett wrote:Chrysler and Volkswagen headlights are the worst.
Todd S. "who sells them every day" Malicoate
I've found both the "lexan" lenses that car manufactures claim to have installed on their vehicles (supposedly rock/chip/crack/breakage proof) and regular old plexiglas to behave similarly while I'm trying to remove scratches/imperfections from them. I service auto dealerships daily, repairing paint blemishes, scuffs, scrapes, chips, painting bumpers, painting quarter panels/doors/hoods, as well as repairing yellowed, dried, and cracked headlights. I've also used 1/4 - 3/8" plexiglas as replacements in houses that I've owned (usually with window unit air conditioner sized holes being cut into them)... I'm the first to admit that I've got no experience with the thickness of the glas being discussed in this thread, but I believe that the same principals hold true. If the plexiglas is scratched/blury/yellowed/weathered, it can be sanded and polished back to *nearly* it's original sheen.
- Todd S. Malicoate
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Well said. You are absolutely correct...the "headlight restoration" kits that we sell at Napa even say on the package that they also work on Plexiglas and acrylics...the materials are very similar. I just thought you were saying the headlights on Chryslers and Volkswagens are made of Plexiglas. People often ask when pricing a headlamp assembly why they are so expensive...my stock "script" for such a situation includes an explanation of the space-age, expensive material known as polycarbonate (PC) plastic.
Todd S. "also not wanting to argue, but unable to sleep" Malicoate
Todd S. "also not wanting to argue, but unable to sleep" Malicoate
- willbrett
- bugler
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Ah, yes... I spent almost 3 years of my life (which I'll never get back) selling cars. One part of our 'scripted' sales pitch described the amazing toughness of the space-age polycarbonate (we called them lexan, and I'm not sure of the difference) plastic headlights. We actually had to bang on them with our knuckles as hard as we could... just to show how 'tough' they are. Of course these have been required of all manufacturers since sometime in the late 90's, but even in 2008, you'll hear salesmen telling you that they're one reason that their brand of car is the "best".Todd S. Malicoate wrote:Well said. You are absolutely correct...the "headlight restoration" kits that we sell at Napa even say on the package that they also work on Plexiglas and acrylics...the materials are very similar. I just thought you were saying the headlights on Chryslers and Volkswagens are made of Plexiglas. People often ask when pricing a headlamp assembly why they are so expensive...my stock "script" for such a situation includes an explanation of the space-age, expensive material known as polycarbonate (PC) plastic.
Todd S. "also not wanting to argue, but unable to sleep" Malicoate
It's a good thing this thread is already in the "off topic" section, isn't it?
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- bugler
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Hey Schlep,
When are you going to cut a blank and turn out your own mouthpiece?
Dave Hayami
When are you going to cut a blank and turn out your own mouthpiece?
Dave Hayami
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
schlepporello wrote: I don't think I'd do near as good a job as Jim Kelly.

I had no idea he made those mouthpieces......!
- The Jackson
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
Excuse me, sir, but I believe you have the incorrect "Jim Kelly"...dwaskew wrote:schlepporello wrote: I don't think I'd do near as good a job as Jim Kelly.
I had no idea he made those mouthpieces......!

- ThomasDodd
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Re: Playing with Plexiglas
willbrett wrote:the space-age polycarbonate (we called them lexan, and I'm not sure of the difference) plastic headlights.
Lexan is a brand name of polycarbonate resin thermoplastic.
Calibre, Makrolon, and Panlite are other brand names.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lexan
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
Schlep, cool stuff. Great that you have access to the "scraps" too. Use it just about anywhere you'd use wood or steel. Stronger and more durable than wood, and easier to work with than steel.