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Why not build a hut alongside the barn to keep the sound outside?

The Big Ben wrote:Why not build a hut alongside the barn to keep the sound outside?

my dad did that for his back garage, of course we don't enjoy our neighbors and it's far enough away from the house that we can't hear it.
Very nice compressor, we are looking for one to put in a barn for car work and other projects.

bloke wrote: I'm going to have fun running pipe and outlets all over the shop.

Take a look at this product: http://www.legris.com/jahia/Jahia/filia ... e/transair" target="_blank" target="_blank

Installation is literally a snap and it looks decent too.

bloke wrote:I bide my time, and I end up with what I want for the price I want...

What was the price? I don't yet know how jealous to be.

6.5 running horsepower (the motor looks a bit small for that)? What's the current draw rating on the motor?

It looks like a single-stage pump, which will produce probably 135 psi, and maybe 15 SCFM at 90 psi (rated). You could paint cars with that thing.

Rick "seeing whole new career opportunities for bloke" Denney

240v x 30a yields 7200w or about 9.5 hp. If the motor is rated at 220v and running at 30, there is still headroom for 7.5 hp with a service factor of 0.85, IIRC. Also the pump looks like a two-stage unit from this pic:



Also, I guess you are setting it up "dry". An oiler isn't really needed if you remember to put a few drops of oil in the air tools before you use them.

--

Bloke,

Nice piece of equipment.

One caution, how will you empty the condensation from the tank in the more humid months with it hoisted up there? In the furniture shops I've worked in, the big compressor like yours would occasionally fill partially with water, which would in turn spray water and oil on wood when cabinetmaker and nail guns would assemble parts. Most of it could be drained by just triggering an air nozzle on the end of a hose, but it would need to be drained from the bottom of the tank sometimes, too. It seems like it might be a problem when spraying lacquer. Can you get up there easy enough?

Beefy compressor. Good luck.

Hi Joe, Nice compressor,
You might consider using schedule 80 pipe, and put a reverse slope in your line so that water condensation doesen't pool at the end(You need to put a drain at the low point)
We had a small auto/motorcycle muffler on the end of the"Tank Drain valve" to cut down on the blow off noise when emptying/draining the tank.
Dave Hayami

Sorry -- I just gotta --

And when you're not using it for running pneumatic tools, you can use it for one of those surgically-implanted 1930's devices that supposedly helped brass players, especially tuba players, play longer on one "breath" of air!

A friend of mine who has a metal shop was just as excited as getting his compressor, very similar to this one, a few years ago. Great addition to any shop.

Yes, it's a two-stage pump. I must have missed the second picture.

I didn't see the 30-amp requirement any place. But the flow rating is consistent with 6.5 running hp.

I would put a filter/water trap in an accessible location in every service line. That does not serve the same purpose as a drain, but it will help keep condensation out of your tools and sprayer. That's not the same thing as a tank drain. Feed your tools off the top of the tank, and install a drain for the bottom of the tank. If you try to run tools out of the bottom of the tank, you're going to have water in it all the time. Just run a pipe from the existing tank drain to the floor of your garage area, pointing into a bucket, and brass ball valve on it. Even with pressure in the tank, cracking the ball valve open will blow out the water in the pipe and the bottom of the tank into the bucket.

I would install a ladder right next to your proposed spot, because I think you are going to regret the limited accessibility of that location otherwise.

Rick "who would like a decent 5-hp compressor but who has no place to put it" Denney

bloke wrote:...You guys are talking about those glass jar-lookin' anti-humidity thingies (me: the techie)...Yea, I use one of those with my crapola compressor...

...and (please) give me a tiny bit of credit. I'm going to run the lines from the upper outlet.

Yes. They also make them that automatically eject the collected water when it reaches a certain level, so that you don't have to check it so often. It should be on the outlet.

And I mentioned the drain issue because of something you wrote that I skimmed and probably misunderstood, concerning that lower drain fitting.

Rick "whose tools require so much (crappy, small) compressor cycling that the air comes out refrigerated to the point of blowing water" Denney

bloke wrote:Now...What is the *right* way to do this...Surely all of those 82 I.Q. electrician's helpers are shown an easier/quicker way to do this...(??)

bloke "Yeah...I didn't feel like making the 1-3/4 hour r/t into Memphis buy fish tape, nor spending the dough to have something that I would almost never use."

The electrician would not have had to make the 1-3/4-hour round trip to Memfus. He'd have had a fish tape (or several) on his truck.

Rick "you can't push a rope" Denney

I agree with rick....

I've found a surprizing number of uses for a 25' fish tape I bought years ago for a work project.

Another option is the wiffle ball/ping pong ball with string tied to it pulled through with a shop vac. (thats what the folks who did the e- on our new office used.

bloke wrote:Now...What is the *right* way to do this...Surely all of those 82 I.Q. electrician's helpers are shown an easier/quicker way to do this...(??)

Fishtape (as mentioned already, and available without the "reel")

Lube (preferably wax-based in this situation, available with PTFE or Teflon)

Work smarter, not harder!