My first advice is: Stay the hell away from chainsaws. They are the most dangerous tool known to homeowners. It's cheaper to hire someone to do the tree work. Furthermore, do as I say, not as I do: While I own 4 chainsaws, and do a lot of (amateur) tree work, I also nearly lost my right index finger (kind of bad for a piano player), and now have a very stiff finger. Makes accompanying the budding tuba player in our household a little harder. If you really want a chainsaw, invest effort into learning how to use it, and get lots of good safety gear.
oldbandnerd wrote:I tried to rent a Makita chainsaw from a HOME DEPOT store today and had problems it flooding out while trying to get it started. I went back and got another one and it did the same thing . Anyone here have any experience with the Makita's and know why the flood so easy ?
Makita chainsaws are actually made by Dolmar in Germany (Makita has owned Dolmar for decades). And Dolmar is the name for the old Sachs company. They make very fine chainsaws. I have the model 7900 at home (a big monster). These are high-quality tools (maybe run into the ground by the rental yard), and they should work excellently.
If you flooded two of them while starting, there are two options. Either there is a common failure mode to the saw. For example, the monkeys at H.D. might have adjusted the carbs wrong, consistently wrong. Or they are using really bad gasoline. However, I find those explanations to be unlikely; the guys at the store are probably capable of getting the saws running.
Sadly, the more likely explanation is the other common factor: you. Starting 2-stroke engines requires a little bit of experience and skill. And no two engines are the same; you have to learn what they like. Please don't take this as personal criticism: Most likely, you are doing something wrong. Maybe you don't use the choke? Or forget to release the choke? Or try to start them in idle, and they like to be started at half throttle? Or trying to start them at full throttle, and they like idle or half throttle? Or not pulling hard enough? I have some engines that need to be started by putting the choke on, then pulling the rope 3 or 4 times, until they *nearly* start; then taking the choke back off, and starting them at half throttle (if they don't start on the first pull, go back to choke). I have other engines that will only run when cold with partial choke, and can't be started at either full choke or no choke. Ask the guys at H.D. to show you how they start the engine.
Are you using old gasoline? Here in California, we are told to use premium to mix 2-stroke gas, with 76 and Chevron being the best choices; other states have different blends (different environmental laws), and that advice might not apply in your area. If I use regular gasoline with motorcycle 2-stroke oil (instead of chainsaw 2-stroke oil), and then let the gas sit in the can for 3 months, then the tools won't start either (and likely clog the carburetor).
I finally got a refund on the rental and am considering buying one. The ones at HOME DEPOT looked like they belonged at a Toy's R Us and I would not waste my money on any of them. What's a good make and model of one for $250.00 or less?
There is none. There are lots of good chainsaws. The two big brand names (like BMW and Mercedes) are Stihl and Husqvarna. There are also other brands that have many good models (Echo, Shindaiwa, Jorgensen, Dolmar), but are lacking the reputation, the consistency, and the dealer network. But all the good saws cost WAY more than $250.
The ones you find at home centers are junk. They will work for a short while, but badly (weak, unergonomic, unsafe). They will not last. If you are a real mechanical hero, you can buy them (preferably used), and keep them going. For the average amateur chainsaw user, that's either impossible, or a really hard way to save money.
And, once you have a chainsaw, you have a maintenance hassle. Gasoline needs to be regularly replaced. Chains need to be sharpened (that's surprisingly difficult for an amateur). Chain oil needs to be stocked. Surgeons need to be paid. This is why I suggest leaving chainsaw work to professionals.
If you really think that you need a chainsaw at home, here's my advice: Find a good chainsaw store in the area. Not a home center, and in most cases not the back counter at the local Ace. Look for a store where there is at least one person whose entire job is dealing with chainsaws (or at least with small engines, like trimmers and leaf blowers). Then ask the for advice. And make that store your chainsaw supply central, where you go regularly, and keep on good terms with the staff. You will need them for repairs, parts, advice, and chain sharpening. I did this with my first few tools (Stihl saw, Honda generator, Stihl trimmer, Echo saw, Stihl leaf blower), and only once I had the skills to do all my maintenance myself did I branch out into brands that don't have that kind of dealer support (Dolmar saw, Poulan pole pruner, earth auger, pressure washer and vibraplate with no-name Chinese engines, and most recently a Wacker tamper).
Interesting coincidence: My son's tuba teacher lives 2 blocks from a very fine chainsaw store, and today on the way back from tuba lesson, I stopped there and ordered $50 worth of spare parts for my string trimmer (another Stihl). But then, I do nearly all of my maintenance at home.
By the way the University of Ill band department might just have some leads on reads for that one.