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For some of us....Summer is almost here (at least the heat) and for others the warmer weather is approaching. My wife and I purchased our first home in December and now we are planning some summer fun. For many people that means a pool.

We were at Walmart yesterday and looked an 18' circular inflatable pool by Intex. I've read reviews on the internet saying that, for the most part, they are awesome.




We're considering purchasing an Intex 18' x 4' metal framed pool. The reviews we have read have been even BETTER than the inflatable variety.



I was wondering if anyone on this forum has purchased either one of these pools. If so, how do you like your pool?

We thought $488.00 for an above ground 18' diameter/4' depth DIY pool that can be taken down at the end of each summer was an EXCELLENT idea!!!!!

My experience has not been with this brand, and was with a smaller version (3' x 12'), so your mileage is almost CERTAIN to vary. We always had a great time, but we also had a few problems. You may be able to learn from some of our mistakes:

Be sure the ground underneath the pool is LEVEL -- within an inch or so from the highest to lowest spots around the pool's perimeter (high or low spots in the middle aren't so much of a problem). Almost level will not do. The force exerted by the water on the downhill side of even a mild slope will push the frame up, letting the liner push through underneath. Once that happens, it's only a matter of time before the liner bursts. So be SURE it's level.

Get completely RID of grass underneath the pool. Don't just kill it, or just cover it with plastic. If you can't get rid of the roots, at LEAST weed-eat right down to the ground and get the plant matter out. Whatever is left under there will rot and STINK!!

Use THICK black plastic underneath the pool. If sunlight gets to the soil, seeds under the pool will germinate. Some plants -- nutgrass, especially -- will actually grow THROUGH the bottom of the liner. By the end of our first summer with one of these pools, it was like swimming in a pond, there was so much plant life growing up through the bottom.

If possible, get a filter that takes cartridges. We've tried both, and I found the cartridge systems work WAY better than the sand filters.

Don't put it under a tree that's going to drop stuff (we put ours under a Mimosa one year -- BAD scene!) The filters work well enough to get rid of most of the stuff that blows in or comes off of people's feet, but it can't begin to keep pace with zillions of leaves or blossoms.

Expect to either exchange the water every two or three weeks, or at least carry a sample every couple of weeks to someplace that sells pool chemicals and can do a water analysis (we used Lowes and Home Depot).

Be safe. When you get an in-ground pool, there are all sorts of inspections and cautions from the pool builders; but with this kit you're on your own. Be sure you have an adequate fence, and put some sort of alarm on the door so you'll hear when young children go out to play. You can get one of these from Radio Shack. DON'T HAVE A POOL IF YOU CAN'T MAKE IT SECURE!!

Also, be advised: we were never able to reuse the same pool more than two years in a row. The filters weren't built to stand up to long-term use, the frames would get warped, and the liners would get too many patches to be repaired any more. These are more expensive, and may well be better in all those regards, but we replaced a couple of these after only a single year's use.

BUT -- Don't let the cautions scare you away, though. For all the cautions, and all the mistakes we made with these pools down through the years, I wouldn't trade all the fun we had with the kids for anything! They truly are a bargain -- and since everyone can cool down in the pool, you can get away with setting the thermostat a little warmer. What a deal!
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Joe Baker, who is a big fan of swimming pools!

I've had 24' round x 4' deep above ground pools for about 30 years. No... it hasn't been the same one. I've had maybe 3 or 4 of 'em.

Joe Baker is right about the ground preparation but I would go one step further and put in at least 2" of sand in the bottom. Pool supply houses also have coping that can be used around the perimeter at the bottom. It's cheap and will help prevent a 'blowout' where the liner extrudes out under the sidewall.

Filtration is very important unless you plan to change the water often. Otherwise, I think a good sand filter is in order. I run my pump 24 hours a day during peak swimming months to keep the water sparkling clean. Start-up chemicals are REQUIRED. Once your water is stable it's fairly easy to maintain sanitation and clarity.

Make plans to use your pool a lot because operating expenses are going to be about the same whether you use it a lot or just a little. I plan on about $90 a month for chemicals and electricity to run the pump. Throw in a hot tub and you can easily add another $100 a month... especially during the winter! The lesson here is if you are not going to fully enjoy it... don't get one. Use a friends!

Well, I bought one of those pools today. My wife and I decided on getting the metal framed one. The box weighs about 290lbs (according to the Walmart website).

My wife and I DEFINITELY plan on using the pool a lot this summer. My wife swims like a fish, so having a pool will be a blessing to her. In addition, my wife has been looking for a "NO Impact" exercise since she can't spend much time on her feet due to a car accident when she was in high school. We are both hoping that having a pool will help lead to weight lose. I know I know....I can't just float on a noodle and expect to lose weight.

As far as setting up this new pool, I noticed the box says do NOT use sand to level the ground. What should we use? I can't imagine why it says NOT to use it. It doesn't make sense.

TubaTodd wrote:I noticed the box says do NOT use sand to level the ground. What should we use?

Hmmm... maybe the manufacturer is worried about the sand washing out and leaving way for the liner to extrude under the sidewall. I've seen professionals install above ground pools on a bed of sand and also use vermiculite to fill in dips. I've used sand under mine but I also have a fabricated coping around the bottom of the sidewall.

I suppose the absolute best thing would be to have a perfectly flat bare-earth base. Better follow the manufacturs recommendations.

Regarding use of sand to level the ground: the "rim" of the pool should be on a solid surface. If the rim is resting on sand, and the sand washes away, your pool is no longer level. Bad things will happen.

The best success we had was when we got the rim on solid ground, then put a couple of inches of sand up against the INSIDE of the rim, then covered the sand (and soil) with the thick black plastic sheets, then put the liner on top of all that.

Oh, I remembered one other tip: don't pull the liner too tight. We had better success when there was a little slack in the liner on the sides. If it's too tight, severe waves will cause the rim to rise & fall with the water. Which is bad.

Good luck!
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Joe Baker, whose current (rented )abode sits on the side of the hill, where there is no possibility of a pool in the back yard.

Joe Baker wrote:or at least carry a sample every couple of weeks to someplace that sells pool chemicals and can do a water analysis (we used Lowes and Home Depot).

You can get the equipment to do all this testing yourself. A high quality tablet type kit will cost about $70.

Warning! Keep pool at least two miles inland.








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Joe Baker wrote:...... The best success we had was when we got the rim on solid ground, then put a couple of inches of sand up against the INSIDE of the rim, then covered the sand (and soil) with the thick black plastic sheets, then put the liner on top of all that.....

Now you're talkin'. THAT's what I was trying to say but couldn't find the right words

chevy68chv wrote:

Joe Baker wrote:or at least carry a sample every couple of weeks to someplace that sells pool chemicals and can do a water analysis (we used Lowes and Home Depot).

You can get the equipment to do all this testing yourself. A high quality tablet type kit will cost about $70.

Indeed you can; but you can go to Lowes or Home Cheapo for free, and you're right there where the chemicals are.
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Joe Baker, who supposes there might be some people for whom the home test would be preferable, but who goes to Lowes at LEAST once a week during the summer anyway!