Ok, so I'm going to have to change the travel of the wing on this rotary valve, necessitating repositioning of the horseshoe.
Dilemma - when putting it where I want it to go, one of the holes in the horseshoe falls halfway in the path of one of the existing tapped holes in the valve. If I use that hole as is, the valve is out of alignment.....
I was thinking of putting a screw in there, securing it with Loctite red, cutting the head off, and then drilling it - does that seem doable? Brazing can sometimes get kind of "messy"......
(Believe it or not, that's actually the technical term the Germans use for that part - "Hufeisen")
To braze the original holes shut (though you could use one or both to oil the rotor), screw some very short brass threaded material in those holes to
just above the surface, put a dot of paste flux on there, and braze those threads into the undesired holes. Clean it up with a small file or
(if you dare) a Dremel tool.
Excellent idea, I hadn't thought of leaving one of the holes open for a bonus oiling port....!
The other hole, unfortunately, is half-way in the way of a new hole, so filling it in and re-drilling it will be mandatory.
If I were to use Loctite red and a stud in one of the holes, would I be able to re-drill a new hole into part of that stud? One of the new holes is going to encompass part of that area. I'd prefer not to make a new hole in the cork plate - I think that would look too "honyock"....
(I suppose I could use the original hole, and cut the rubber bumpers so that valve is in alignment, but I think that would look kind of lousy, too....)
Some manufacturers are not as good at making their parts all alike and are not very good at marking their parts at assembly. Have you tried switching the bumper plates around to see if they work better in one location than the other?
I've seen the lack of orientation so bad that I've had to either oversize the holes in the bumper plate a bit (or slot them).
Also... I don't get too concerned about one bumper being thicker than the other. I've seen some so bad that the stop pin actually enters the hole where the bumper goes.
Are you certain you aren't dealing with a twisted rotor stem? I've had to mess with those before, too.
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker" http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
Dan Schultz wrote:Some manufacturers are not as good at making their parts all alike and are not very good at marking their parts at assembly. Have you tried switching the bumper plates around to see if they work better in one location than the other?
I've seen the lack of orientation so bad that I've had to either oversize the holes in the bumper plate a bit (or slot them).
Also... I don't get too concerned about one bumper being thicker than the other. I've seen some so bad that the stop pin actually enters the hole where the bumper goes.
Are you certain you aren't dealing with a twisted rotor stem? I've had to mess with those before, too.
Thanks for the thoughts, Dan - actually, the valve is brand spanking new, and this manufacturer's quality and workmanship is above reproach, so nothing is out of order, functionally. Because of some stupid miscalculations I made before I ordered the valve, the eventual necessity of two different sized bumpers seems inevitable. Trouble is, if I use one of the already supplied holes to reposition it (as pictured in the second) it then magnifies the problem even more in the new position.
Last edited by roweenie on Fri Jul 26, 2019 10:18 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Thanks, windshield bug - the valve is now configured to its best advantage.
Sometimes, I have difficulty in envisioning how a rotary 5th valve linkage should travel, especially when I don't have the parts in place for me to see what is the best way to go....