Hey guys, I just purchased this Conn 20k and was wondering if its able to be saved. There are 2 large cracks where the sousaphone rests on your shoulder. I was also wondering what would be the best approach for polishing out the rust-like finish. I've polished it with Hagertys so far.
Pictures:
http://imgur.com/gallery/cvEHBie" target="_blank
http://imgur.com/gallery/056OouE" target="_blank
Cracks and Rust-like Finish on Conn 20k
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Sousasaurus Rex
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toobagrowl
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Re: Cracks and Rust-like Finish on Conn 20k
You may be able to solder a large, long patch over the long cracks, or get a tech to do it. If you are unable to do that, then I'd just dab some 2-part epoxy over the whole area. Either way should seal up those cracks and make it structurally sound again. Just make sure the area is super clean before doing any of those repairs.
As for the finish, looks like an old satin-silver finish worn down unevenly over the decades. Really hard to clean old satin-silver well if it has decades of tarnish on it. Looks like you got most of it. Some spots look worn down to bare brass, but with the not-smooth satin finish, so it kinda gives a somewhat 'rusty' appearance. Hagerty's is a good silver polish
You may be able to clean the last bit of residue off by using an old, slightly damp towel or rag over the whole horn.
Others here may give different opinions on how to clean the horn even better.
As for the finish, looks like an old satin-silver finish worn down unevenly over the decades. Really hard to clean old satin-silver well if it has decades of tarnish on it. Looks like you got most of it. Some spots look worn down to bare brass, but with the not-smooth satin finish, so it kinda gives a somewhat 'rusty' appearance. Hagerty's is a good silver polish
You may be able to clean the last bit of residue off by using an old, slightly damp towel or rag over the whole horn.Others here may give different opinions on how to clean the horn even better.
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Sousasaurus Rex
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Re: Cracks and Rust-like Finish on Conn 20k
Thanks for your feedback. Any videos or recommendations for epoxy? I've never dealt with that before. Also, thank you for the cleaning recommendationstoobagrowl wrote:You may be able to solder a large, long patch over the long cracks, or get a tech to do it. If you are unable to do that, then I'd just dab some 2-part epoxy over the whole area. Either way should seal up those cracks and make it structurally sound again. Just make sure the area is super clean before doing any of those repairs.
As for the finish, looks like an old satin-silver finish worn down unevenly over the decades. Really hard to clean old satin-silver well if it has decades of tarnish on it. Looks like you got most of it. Some spots look worn down to bare brass, but with the not-smooth satin finish, so it kinda gives a somewhat 'rusty' appearance. Hagerty's is a good silver polish
Others here may give different opinions on how to clean the horn even better.
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toobagrowl
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Re: Cracks and Rust-like Finish on Conn 20k
@Sousasaurus Rex,
I don't have any vids on epoxy repair myself; I just kinda learned how to do it on my own by experimenting with it over the years. Same for soldering and other stuff.
Early on, I tried the J-B Weld stuff and wasn't completely happy with the results -- for me it doesn't work as well on brass as does the Loctite and Gorilla brand epoxies. There are other stronger, more expensive epoxies out there. But you are not repairing a hole or large chip in a boat or car, so the Gorilla or Loctite 2-part clear epoxies that you can get at the hardware store should suffice.
Make sure the area is real clean -- I would maybe wipe it down with denatured alcohol and fine-grit sandpaper. This is to make sure the epoxy adheres well to the brass. Follow the directions on the epoxy package, mix the 2 parts (hardener and resin) well, and equally before application. Then you can dab it on over those long cracks. Make sure you sqeeze out enough 2-part epoxy to completely cover the cracks. Let it dry -- it may take a day or even several days to completely dry and harden depending on temperature & humidity
The good thing about epoxy is that you can sand/file it, and even lacquer over it if you choose
I don't have any vids on epoxy repair myself; I just kinda learned how to do it on my own by experimenting with it over the years. Same for soldering and other stuff.
Early on, I tried the J-B Weld stuff and wasn't completely happy with the results -- for me it doesn't work as well on brass as does the Loctite and Gorilla brand epoxies. There are other stronger, more expensive epoxies out there. But you are not repairing a hole or large chip in a boat or car, so the Gorilla or Loctite 2-part clear epoxies that you can get at the hardware store should suffice.
Make sure the area is real clean -- I would maybe wipe it down with denatured alcohol and fine-grit sandpaper. This is to make sure the epoxy adheres well to the brass. Follow the directions on the epoxy package, mix the 2 parts (hardener and resin) well, and equally before application. Then you can dab it on over those long cracks. Make sure you sqeeze out enough 2-part epoxy to completely cover the cracks. Let it dry -- it may take a day or even several days to completely dry and harden depending on temperature & humidity
The good thing about epoxy is that you can sand/file it, and even lacquer over it if you choose