I REALLY wanted this horn, but due to the way the divorce is progressing, I might not be able to swing it.
Here is some food for thought:
1. Bandmaster is willing to come down on the price. PM him, you may like what he has to say now.
2. This is an EARLY Martin, in the Handcraft series. These are lighter than the later, similar looking Martins. Some people think they play better.
3. It includes real Martin bits. These are getting harder and harder to come by. Conn bits are just not the same.
4. Disregard what he says about this horn only being able to be used for certain things. Even though it has three valves, EVERY note from the pedal to the stratosphere can be played in tune if you can buzz it in tune. I owned a Handcraft before, I am not making this up. Back then, they made the third slide longer. Keep it all or most of the way in. Lip up slightly for 23, lip down slightly for 13. If you buzz it in tune, those notes will easily play in tune without any extra effort. Vent the 1st and second piston, and keep your left hand around the 1st or 2nd slides. That way, if you really want, you can pull for 123. Otherwise, you can still lip it and get an in tune B natural with a good sound. That's it. No need for a 4th or 5th valve - the false tones on these horns are great. Rumor has it the three valvers even play a little better than the four valvers.
5. I played one of these horns with a bell front in Dr. David Holsinger's Wind Ensemble. He loved it and could have cared less which way the bell pointed. I also played a Marcello Sonata on one for a recital. Sounded great. Even played it outdoors for the brass fanfare by Dukas. Opening high Ab was killer. However, there is a time and a place where you need an upright bell. Call Lee Stofer, and for not much more than a grand, you can have a killer upright bell. Little more, and you can have a killer upright bell with the most beautiful engraving you ever saw. (How do I know this? It was copied from MY Martin

)
I want this horn. But if I can't have it, YOU should.