Aha yes another post. I was just curious about the proper way to tune a 4v compensating euphonium as I am not used to the extra valve and slides. It appears that there are what almost looks llike 2 main tuning slides but I assume it is the one with the water key on it. what is the other one for that is similar in size, connecting 1 and 4? i think.................and also how do you use the one BEHIND the valves, which does it tune?
Thanks,
Xtreme "who isnt so mechanical when it comes to more than 4 slides"
Tuning a 4v comp.
- Steve Inman
- 4 valves

- Posts: 804
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 11:48 am
Based on experience with my Besson 983 Eb tuba (no longer in my collection), I would think you'd tune 2nd valve slide to play an in-tune A or E. Tune 1st valve slide to play an in-tune Ab or Eb. Tune 3rd valve slide to play an in-tune G or D. Tune 4th valve slide to play an in-tune F or C. This is all "typical" for a 4V, non-comp. horn.
Then with 4th valve held down, repeat these same notes in the same octave (no need to play notes an octave down for this step). The 4-2 A or E should sound the same as the 2nd valve only A or E. If it's sharp (and if your euph has a secondary slide on the 2nd valve (remember, I had an Eb tuba), then tug it out as needed. Then try the 4-1 Ab and lengthen the secondary slide to match the 1st valve only Ab. 4-3 G or D should have its secondary slide pulled to match the intonation of the 3rd valve only G or D.
That's how I'd make my first pass. Then I'd go back and further tweak things for any unique quirks in instrument or in my playing style. For example, if a 2-3 Db is still a bit sharp, I might pull the primary third slide a bit more. This may require that I play G or D as 12 now, as I normally would. So now it's time for the picky little trade-offs.
Cheers,
Then with 4th valve held down, repeat these same notes in the same octave (no need to play notes an octave down for this step). The 4-2 A or E should sound the same as the 2nd valve only A or E. If it's sharp (and if your euph has a secondary slide on the 2nd valve (remember, I had an Eb tuba), then tug it out as needed. Then try the 4-1 Ab and lengthen the secondary slide to match the 1st valve only Ab. 4-3 G or D should have its secondary slide pulled to match the intonation of the 3rd valve only G or D.
That's how I'd make my first pass. Then I'd go back and further tweak things for any unique quirks in instrument or in my playing style. For example, if a 2-3 Db is still a bit sharp, I might pull the primary third slide a bit more. This may require that I play G or D as 12 now, as I normally would. So now it's time for the picky little trade-offs.
Cheers,
Steve Inman
Yamaha YEB-381 Eb
Conn 56J CC
Willson-Marzan CC Solo Model
Kokomo Chamber Brass
Yamaha YEB-381 Eb
Conn 56J CC
Willson-Marzan CC Solo Model
Kokomo Chamber Brass
- Steve Inman
- 4 valves

- Posts: 804
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 11:48 am
Remember, the compensating setup routes the 4th valve tubing path back through valves 1,2,3 via a second path that includes the secondary slildes -- slides that only have air moving through them when 4th valve is pressed AND one of the other valves is also pressed. These extra (what I called "secondary") slides add enough extra length to allow the 4th valve "combination" fingerings play in tune.
Remember when you press 4th valve, your euph is now a tiny little 3V F tuba. But the primary tuning slides for 1,2,3 are only long enough to allow for a Bb euph to finger/play notes in tune. So the extra, "secondary" slides add enough extra length to allow valves 1,2,3 play F tuba notes in tune. This feature is "automatically" engaged with pressing 4th valve, as the air path uses the send path through your valves that will "automatically" include the secondary tuning slides whenever you press valves 1, 2, or 3.
HTH,
Remember when you press 4th valve, your euph is now a tiny little 3V F tuba. But the primary tuning slides for 1,2,3 are only long enough to allow for a Bb euph to finger/play notes in tune. So the extra, "secondary" slides add enough extra length to allow valves 1,2,3 play F tuba notes in tune. This feature is "automatically" engaged with pressing 4th valve, as the air path uses the send path through your valves that will "automatically" include the secondary tuning slides whenever you press valves 1, 2, or 3.
HTH,
Steve Inman
Yamaha YEB-381 Eb
Conn 56J CC
Willson-Marzan CC Solo Model
Kokomo Chamber Brass
Yamaha YEB-381 Eb
Conn 56J CC
Willson-Marzan CC Solo Model
Kokomo Chamber Brass
-
XtremeEuph
- 4 valves

- Posts: 598
- Joined: Thu Feb 23, 2006 5:02 pm
- iiipopes
- Utility Infielder

- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:10 am
Some people even go so far as to tune the main slides for 1 and 2 a couple of cents flat in order to split the difference between 1 or 2 alone being perfectly in tune and 12 combination being sharp. Don't go too flat if you decide to do this, however, as it will make the 5th partials really flat.
If you play a lot of literature with a lot of flats, you probably will want to pull the main 3 slide to get 23 in tune.
As you are probably becoming achingly aware, the only real advantage of the 4th valve is to tune the low notes, as a 3-valve comp will get everything in tune with much less hassle, have 3 alone in tune and have 12 as the alternate for trills or tricky fingerings, and 123 only about as sharp as 12 on the 4-valve comp, albeit only down to the bottom of the bass clef. But now that euph players insist on the entire range from the subbasement to the stratosphere, this is where the current state of the art is.
If you play a lot of literature with a lot of flats, you probably will want to pull the main 3 slide to get 23 in tune.
As you are probably becoming achingly aware, the only real advantage of the 4th valve is to tune the low notes, as a 3-valve comp will get everything in tune with much less hassle, have 3 alone in tune and have 12 as the alternate for trills or tricky fingerings, and 123 only about as sharp as 12 on the 4-valve comp, albeit only down to the bottom of the bass clef. But now that euph players insist on the entire range from the subbasement to the stratosphere, this is where the current state of the art is.
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K