Yamaha YXX-321 owners -- valve oil recommendations?

Steve Inman · Post by **Steve Inman** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:06 am

I've got a top action piston Yamaha Eb. The valves, even when well cleaned, occasionally stick a bit. I'm using some cheap off-brand oil and I want to mend my evil ways.

Please direct me to the path of enlightenment. What works well for you with your piston Yamaha tuba?

Thanks,

pulseczar · Post by **pulseczar** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:15 am

valve lapping? I've had that problem with three different Yamaha ybb 321s.

SqueakyOnion · Post by **SqueakyOnion** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 1:25 am

My best friend marched Crossmen, who use Yamaha horns. He said that when new, Yamaha valves are not an "Exact, perfect fit." As you "break in" the valves, tiny, tiny metal shavings collect at the bottom of the valves, and in the ports, etc. Thus, it is important, for the first 3 months (1st month especially) of ownership, to CLEAN (flush with water) the valves at least every other day, and flush the whole horn (in a tub or something close, shower maybe) at least once a week. Also, make sure to clean out the bottom valve caps.

At least, that's what he said.

Personally, I played a school owned YEP-321 euphonium, and the valves SUCKED. No matter how much oil, they always stuck. Once I bathed the horn a few times over the course of a week or two, things improved GREATLY. Valves got smoother, and much less sticking.

Just a thought.

Chas

*Edited because I can't spell forrectly.

drewfus · Post by **drewfus** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 2:09 am

My YBB-321 does NOT like Superslick. It does like Roche-Thomas.

iiipopes · Post by **iiipopes** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 2:29 am

I concur with Roche-Thomas. I don't own a Yammy, but I've owned several other horns. I've used Roche-Thomas for over 30 years, and everytime someone says there is something better, I clean my horns, try a small bit of it, clean them again and go back to the Roche-Thomas.

But then again, there is teflon Snake Oil from the UK which I have not tried -- yet.

pulseczar · Post by **pulseczar** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 2:30 am

Have you tried ultra pure lamp oil yet? IMO it's a bit slippier than Roche Thomas.

Ace · Post by **Ace** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 2:49 am

When I started playing brass instrumrnts in 1947, I used Holton "Electric Oil"---foul smelling stuff. Since then I think I've tried every oil that was on the market. Some worked well, others were awful.

My eyes were opened when I tried Hetman's Synthetic Light Piston Lubricant 1. To me, it is a miracle product. (Just be sure to wash your horn and valves/casings thoroughly before applying.)

Z-Tuba Dude · Post by **Z-Tuba Dude** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 8:23 am

I have a YCB-621 CC tuba, which shared the problems of which you speak, when it was younger. I found that when I switched to Hetman's, it pretty much solved the problem.

I would be weary of lapping the valves unnecessarily!

Toobist · Post by **Toobist** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 11:28 am

I'm very familiar with Yamaha valves as I weekly oil several dozen of them. From student models all the way up to the sooper dooper pro stuff, the valves are extremely tight. They are like this on purpose believe it or not. Yes, when new, they need to be oiled every time you play for at least the first 6 months or so. I would recommend a thin oil like Al Cass Fast or Hetman #1 like suggested above (but the two oils don't like each other in my experience so don't mix them!). I've used the holton stuff too with excellent results but the rest of the section in the orchestra voted it out for the smell.

After a short while of oiling often you'll find some fine black sludge in the bottom of the valve casing. That's the stuff you're getting off your valves. The valve and valve casings are doing exactly as stated above - breaking in. As long as you keep your valves clean by oiling them religiously each time you play, you'll enjoy some of the best-made valves in the industry. After some time and after you don't see any more of that sooty stuff on your bottom valve caps you can probably back off a bit with the oil and just use when needed.

I've heard of sticky valves on Yamahas but I'm sure that if more people would follow my advice many of those people will find out for themselves just how well those horns are made. They stick if not maintained but I assure you, they won't leak.

Rick F · Post by **Rick F** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 11:32 am

Yamaha's are known for having tight valves. I think you'll like Hetman's Light Piston Oil or Hetman's #1. All 4 euphers in our section (playing either Yamaha 321 or 642) have been using Hetman's #1 with much success.

Bob Mosso · Post by **Bob Mosso** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:09 pm

Toobist wrote:...the valves are extremely tight. They are like this on purpose believe it or not. Yes, when new, they need to be oiled every time you play for at least the first 6 months or so... As long as you keep your valves clean by oiling them religiously each time you play, you'll enjoy some of the best-made valves in the industry. After some time... you can probably back off a bit with the oil and just use when needed.

Exactly my experience with a YEP-321.

UTTuba_09 · Post by **UTTuba_09** » Thu Aug 17, 2006 12:49 pm

I recently bought a yamaha YEB-321 Eb off of Ebay, it is by far the best horn I've ever played. As far as valve oil, I recommend either Zaja Scented or good old fashion blue juice.
Hope this helps...

EH

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Yamaha YXX-321 owners -- valve oil recommendations?

Yamaha YXX-321 owners -- valve oil recommendations?

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