Thanks for all the good advice. Turns out that it was an oil-based problem. I got a new oil (Hetman #1), re-cleaned, and everything is now lightning fast.
And for the record, I ALWAYS brush my teeth before playing, and only drink water when playing. I actually have a toothbrush and toothpaste in my gig bag "just in case."
I use Binak on my tuba, but have found that it doesn't work well on some valves. It makes them sluggish as you describe. Try some good old Holton valve oil. It's a good weight oil for low brass; not as thin as many trumpet oriented valve oils. I actually mix the Binak and Holton, which works well for me. Try the Holton first and if it's too thin try a little Binak with it until you get a mix that works for you. I know it says not to do that, but I've been doing it for years with no problem.
Thats exactly a contributing factor. Rule of thumb, never mix oils (unless you are confident there is a brand good for mixing) Also make sure your horn, the casings/pistons are bone dry and clean before you re-oil and replace them.
Thanks for all the good advice. Turns out that it was an oil-based problem. I got a new oil (Hetman #1), re-cleaned, and everything is now lightning fast.
And for the record, I ALWAYS brush my teeth before playing, and only drink water when playing. I actually have a toothbrush and toothpaste in my gig bag "just in case."
Where is your fun?
It is like a fungus farm in my horn. I enjoy diet coke while playing, have been known to partake in the brew, and love some Jimmy John's Subs as well during a good practice session.
I'm sure every time I take them in for cleaning, the repair guy shakes in his boots.
Thanks for all the good advice. Turns out that it was an oil-based problem. I got a new oil (Hetman #1), re-cleaned, and everything is now lightning fast.
And for the record, I ALWAYS brush my teeth before playing, and only drink water when playing. I actually have a toothbrush and toothpaste in my gig bag "just in case."
A good example for all of us. Now if I would only get a gig bag for my tuba first....
1. Grease and valve oil don't mix, even when they are compatible. Keep grease out of the valves by whatever means, including avoiding excess and avoiding dissolving grease with valve oil.
2. Don't use BiNaK. I have experimented with it and have also found that some instruments don't like it no matter how much they are cleaned, and when it goes bad because of interaction with oil it goes bad all the way. I switched to Hetmans and that has eliminated a range of problems that I had with BiNaK.
3. Here's a new one: New valves require time to build and then polish the oxidation on the inside of the brass casing. That oxidation, which is just the brass turning brown, is rough (at the microscopic level) when it forms. It polishes smooth with use. Scrubbing it off with a tarnish remover starts the process over again, so I don't do it. The solution is dedicated, frequent oiling and cleaning until the oxide layer forms and polishes. The oxide layer will prevent future oxide formation.
4. Make sure you clean the valve guides and channels as carefully as the casings and pistons.
5. Push straight down, which is mostly accomplished by putting your finger on the valve button and not on the edge of the valve button.
6. Remove and oil the valves before every playing session, without fail. Don't put stuff into the horn except lots of air.
I had terrible troubles with my Yamaha 621, especially playing outdoors in hot temperatures. I did all these things, and eventually had the valves honed a bit by a technician. Yamaha valves are built to tighter tolerances than most, and too tight for my needs.
Green is thick stuff for regular horn slides. Works pretty good for that; maybe not so well for trombone. I use it and like it. For valve horns, it doesn't seem to be a problem if it sneaks down into the horn; it just thins out and blends when it hits the regular valve oil.
Blue label is thin stuff for valves, but way too pricey for me. I use the commodity sized bottle of cheap stuff (Giardinelli or Roche (same stuff, I think)), and lots of it, for valves, protecting the inside of slides, lead pipe, generally drenching the horn in oil. I like oil. Oil is good. You haven't oiled properly unless it is running out of the bell.
