piston valve stems problems
- Alex C
- pro musician

- Posts: 2225
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 10:34 am
- Location: Cybertexas
Make sure your stem is not bent and rubbing against the valve cap, that's all I can think of.
City Intonation Inspector - Dallas Texas
"Holding the Bordognian Fabric of the Universe together through better pitch, one note at a time."
Practicing results in increased atmospheric CO2 thus causing global warming.
"Holding the Bordognian Fabric of the Universe together through better pitch, one note at a time."
Practicing results in increased atmospheric CO2 thus causing global warming.
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Naptown Tuba
- bugler

- Posts: 210
- Joined: Mon Mar 27, 2006 1:34 pm
- Location: Indy
I've got a 4 -5 yr. old Mira 1295 and all 4 of the stems are like that. I've had no valve or stem damage; even had the valves aligned & everything is working fine. I've just attributed it to a poor laquer job in that area. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're concerned about the cosmetics. I agree; a new horn shouldn't flake like that.
Gnagey/King Satin Silver CC
- Chuck(G)
- 6 valves

- Posts: 5679
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:48 am
- Location: Not out of the woods yet.
- Contact:
-
Locky
- bugler

- Posts: 45
- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 4:14 pm
- Location: Nottingham UK
-
quinterbourne
- 4 valves

- Posts: 772
- Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2005 5:52 pm
- Location: Ontario, Canada
- iiipopes
- Utility Infielder

- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:10 am
If the cosmetics bother you that badly, just get some anodized aluminum valve stems. I don't know if they're available for tuba, but they're certainly available for trumpet.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K
- Mojo workin'
- 4 valves

- Posts: 784
- Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2006 1:44 pm
- Location: made of teflon, behind the bull's eye
- Chuck(G)
- 6 valves

- Posts: 5679
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:48 am
- Location: Not out of the woods yet.
- Contact:
Why not have some turned from stainless? Or you could go the bicycle racing components route and have them machined from titanium. Maybe palladium would be a nice touch--perhaps with emeralds and sapphires set in each valve cap...iiipopes wrote:If the cosmetics bother you that badly, just get some anodized aluminum valve stems. I don't know if they're available for tuba, but they're certainly available for trumpet.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
- The Big Ben
- 6 valves

- Posts: 3169
- Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2006 11:54 am
- Location: Port Townsend, WA
I'd like to be able to get some trick valve buttons. My teacher is from Arizona and is really into turquoise. Would be neat to get him some turquoise buttons. I'd like some jade buttons myself.... Maybe that will be my little shade tree business in my dottage. About thirty dollars for three, forty for four, etc.Chuck(G) wrote:Why not have some turned from stainless? Or you could go the bicycle racing components route and have them machined from titanium. Maybe palladium would be a nice touch--perhaps with emeralds and sapphires set in each valve cap...iiipopes wrote:If the cosmetics bother you that badly, just get some anodized aluminum valve stems. I don't know if they're available for tuba, but they're certainly available for trumpet.
Then you can deal with all of the white aluminum oxide powder preciptating off of them from the electrolytic action with the brass and scouring your valves instead.
I bet the trumpet guys would go bananas for 'em. Especially if I put 'em in a jar of dry ice and said they were 'cryogenically treated'...
