Some time ago I ran a webpage with a review of a Rudy tuba through a translator, and "Diespeck" came out "fat sausage," or something similar. I thought how fitting!
I'm glad you didn't ask how does it sound when I play it
It is the most responsive instrument I have ever played - gorgeous tone, great dynamic contrast (to the extent my family would allow me to experiment - I'll have to wait until they go out for something else). Transitioning from EEb back to BBb (I originally started playing on BBb a few decades ago at school) will require some heavy duty practice - it seems harder to go from a BBb to BB without cracking up than the eefer was to go from EEb to EE for example - and the same seems to be the case an octave up. It's the only instrument I have ever been able to play a BBBb on and with a bit of practice I'll get that more reliable.
Takes a bunch of breath but it has so much inate volume of its own that I won't feel the need to play it as "loud" as I sometimes had to on the EEb (especially on those occasions when I was the only tuba in a 60 piece windband!!)
I'm going to have to do a lot of work learning the tuning (although this instrument is cleverly designed so that it is very much in tune throughout the entire range - but it is not a compensating instrument like my B&H was, of course) - whether the 2nd valve slide trigger will really make a difference for the stuff I do remains to be seen.
Geotuba wrote:especially on those occasions when I was the only tuba in a 60 piece windband!!
From my experience, you should be able to provide a really solid bass foundation to the band with that, the like of which is just not possible with a smaller tuba such as your EEb, which will in turn enhance the sound of the whole ensemble.
bloke wrote:I've always enjoyed looking at the unique signature shape of RM bell flares...particularly the 5/4
I too fall into this habit whenever I see a photo of a Rudy, or whenever I get a chance to look at my own 4/4. I wonder what it is that makes these horns so aesthetically pleasing. Anyone have an answer?
"There are places in music that you can only go if you're an idiot."--Tom Waits
Bob1062 wrote:I looked at the pictures, but didn't get an exact idea of how the trigger works. Is it operated by the left hand near the 1st slide?
Yes. The left hand rests on the part of the tubing inside the main body of the instrument - I think you can just see that here:
(Yes - this is the "first blow" picture my wife took without waiting for me to find the valves with my right hand!!)
The trigger is then operated with the thumb.
I'll try to get a better pic taken
Bob1062 wrote:
With a 2nd valve trigger and the "default" 1st valve slide, you'd probably never have to use the 4th slide (bouncing around from the front to the back of the horn) except for MAYBE low C.
I take it you mean the C 6 ledger lines below the bass clef. With the limited messing around I have done so far this note seems to be very sharp and needs to be played 1234 - I'm not good enough at playing it yet to really figure out whether to use the 2nd valve trigger there or not. It seems that the B a semitone lower than it is then unreachable without pulling something else out - again needs a lot more messing around on my part to be sure about that.
Congrats Hugh, I can't wait until you show up for rehearsal in September.
My God, it's a big horn. I'm not sure I'll be able to handle the volume.
For all you Tubnetters out there, I play in a concert band with Hugh and usually sit on his left because he used to play an upright EEb horn, pointing right. Now that we will both be pointing left, I may not have anywhere to hide. Time for ear plugs.
It is a mighty big horn. Hugh is a very tall guy (6"5" or better) so when you you see him sitting with his new baby on his lap you get an idea of just how big it is.
Geotuba wrote:I'm going to have to do a lot of work learning the tuning (although this instrument is cleverly designed so that it is very much in tune throughout the entire range - but it is not a compensating instrument like my B&H was, of course) - whether the 2nd valve slide trigger will really make a difference for the stuff I do remains to be seen.
Don't be afraid to use 1-3 on occasion for F and A. A bit clumsy at first, but very rewarding intonation-wise without robbing tone quality. I always used 1-2 for d, as well. 4/4 and 5/4 Rudys are somewhat notorious for that kind of stuff, but they will also respond to what you put into them (as I found out at my first lesson with Bob LeBlanc a couple of decades ago).
Congrats. Looks like you have the horn of many of our dreams!!
"The only problem with that tuba is, it does everything you tell it to!" - Robert LeBlanc
tubafatness wrote:I too fall into this habit whenever I see a photo of a Rudy, or whenever I get a chance to look at my own 4/4. I wonder what it is that makes these horns so aesthetically pleasing. Anyone have an answer?
I'm the same way. I love the fact that, of the Rudi's I have owned/seen, the finish is a little "rough". When one looks at a new Mirafone or B&S product it can be blinding. Those two companies buff the horns to shine shine shine. Rudi.....not so much. "Buffing streaks, who gives a crap. Squirt some not-so-long-lasting lacquer on it and ship it to the USA. Hell, it's a tool. Do you polish the shovel before you dig"?
I also love the braces. The ones I have had around have 1-piece massive bracing throughout. Those things have a good look to them.
The engraving also gives me the warm fuzzies and the sound tingles the butt.