waterproofing decks/trailers...

[oldbandnerd]

This was a nifty idea bloke. It seems to be working . I was wondering if straining the old oil first would have cleaned it up a bit and made the wood not look so dark . i was thinking if you use coffee filters and strained it several times it might clean the burned oil enough so you still get the waterproofing without some of the darkness and burned smell . What do you think ?


BTW ... the reason water sealants like Thompsons don't last is because they are basically paraffin wax suspend in a carrier of some sort . You apply it and the carrier evaporates and leaves the paraffin. That wax coating isn't going to last but so long. I know this because I used to do rep. work for a company the competed against Thompson's in the big box stores . This companies product was guaranteed for 20 years or some outrageous number because it not paraffin based but petroleum ( oil ) based. I have been racking my brain trying to think of what the sealant was called but I just can't remember. A search on the internet didn't help any either . Anyway. sealants like Thompsons are a waste of time and money.

[Donn]

I live in a log house. If times get *really* tough economically and it will be time to re-stain the house, I might (??) use this (free) stuff, instead of the $40/gal special oil stain that I've bought in the past

I use Chevron "shingle oil" on wood siding (Pacific red cedar.) Probably similar to motor oil, but a little thinner and not much color or odor. Comes in 5 gallon tubs. Not recommended for decks.

[Donn]

I've been mulling over using *new* (not used...very light honey color, as we all know) motor oil (about $10/gal for the off-brand...vs. $40/gal for the "special log house oil") and mixing in some oil-based stain (c. $3/pt.) of an appropriate color.

I can't find a current quote for the stuff, but shingle oil is probably cheaper than the best you can do for motor oil, and it's designed and recommended for not only shingles, but specifically log houses. So the next time you happen across an industrial lubricant supply place that handles Chevron, it might be worth checking. (Big Boxz don't carry this stuff.) If you like, get the 55 gallon drum, it will keep.

[SplatterTone]

Find a county with dirt roads. It seems reasonable to assume that the oil they spray on dirt roads would be relatively economical and good.

[Donn]

Find a county with dirt roads. It seems reasonable to assume that the oil they spray on dirt roads would be relatively economical and good.

Well, I don't know. Our county has dirt roads, and they probably don't care if they oil they use is good - they treat those roads like dirt!

(Actually I don't have any reason to think they spray any oil on roads. In our relatively wet climate it's probably more trouble than it's worth.)

[SplatterTone]

I've seen dirt roads oiled with a tank truck about the size of your typical septic tank pumper truck. A bar across the back with nozzles spraying black oil stuff that looks a lot like old engine oil, maybe thicker. Periodic pass by a road grader. Over time, the oil builds up and makes the dirt a little like weak asphalt.

[lgb&dtuba]

I've seen dirt roads oiled with a tank truck about the size of your typical septic tank pumper truck. A bar across the back with nozzles spraying black oil stuff that looks a lot like old engine oil, maybe thicker. Periodic pass by a road grader. Over time, the oil builds up and makes the dirt a little like weak asphalt.

I've seen that, too. But I'm not so sure it's used engine oil. There's quite a bit of concern over the contaminants in used oil seeping into ground water, streams, etc. For that matter, clean oil as well.

[Bill Troiano]

It seems like powerwashing and bleach are both bad for decks. Mine is made of cedar and is large. Being 13 years old, I do have to change a board or two each year, but otherwise, I've kept it looking fairly decent. I powerwash it every 2-3 years. First, I spray on a deck cleaner using a pump sprayer. I let it sit for a few minutes and then powerwash the area. It's the damm posts and railings that take all of the time. Then, after it dries for a few days, I apply Cabot's deck stain (slighly tinted - one grade up from clear), which might be similar to applying oil? I should have done it this summer, but I'm holding off until next Spring so that it looks nice when we entertain tons of people before and after my daughter's wedding. Many Austinites will be visiting for the affair - gotta make the place look nice!

My dad used motor oil on the small deck we had at our house where I grew up (sort of). He swore by it back then.

[Rick Denney]

I've seen dirt roads oiled with a tank truck about the size of your typical septic tank pumper truck. A bar across the back with nozzles spraying black oil stuff that looks a lot like old engine oil, maybe thicker. Periodic pass by a road grader. Over time, the oil builds up and makes the dirt a little like weak asphalt.

I've seen that, too. But I'm not so sure it's used engine oil. There's quite a bit of concern over the contaminants in used oil seeping into ground water, streams, etc. For that matter, clean oil as well.

The additive package in motor oil will undermine the objective to some extent. There are no UV inhibitors, but there are detergents and anti-foaming agents that add to cost but not to effectiveness for this pursuit. So-called "shingle oil" is probably just a single cut of petroleum with no additional refinement or additives, and that's just fine. We have our redwood-sided house stained with oil-based water-proofing and the cost of the labor is MUCH more than the materials. It's good for at least five years.

The additives that are the main problem for the local envirocops are heavy metals. Motor oil has zinc and phosphorus, among others, and used motor oils often have lead, iron, and bronze, too. Maybe even some aluminum. Raw, non-detergent oil that is unused won't have much in the way of heavy metals. Oils intended for diesel applications will have more heavy metal additives than oil intended for gasoline engines.

The oil used on dirt roads is the same stuff they use as a solvent to dissolve asphalt to make a slurry (called cut-back) that is used for seal-coating. It's really just diesel fuel. The high fractions are volatile and evaporate off, leaving the paraffin. All petroleum oils contain paraffin, and that's always a big part of what's left when the oil evaporates. Cut-back asphalt contains tar that is left when the diesel solvent evaporates. The asphalt is, of course, just the binder, as portland cement is just a binder, in making concrete. The aggregate (rocks) in both asphaltic and portland-cement concretes do the real work of carrying the load.

Rick "wondering if UV inhibitors could be bought as an additive in large quantities for cheap to mix with the shingle oil" Denney