besson compensating tuba problems

[imperialbari]

My experiences with a large stem mouthpiece, in casu the same PT-50 throughout, and British BBb tubas with narrow old style receivers have been mixed.

A band provided Besson with the 19” bell and the narrow receiver as they came through the transitional years between the old New Standard/Imperial models of pre-1979 and the Sovereign’s of post 1983 (or so), simply was erratic above the 4th partial, whereas it was magnificent below the open pedal. There might have been damages, obstructions, or leaks not detected by me, as the whole point was, that I could avoid bringing my own York Master by just taking the Besson out of the storage room. I soon refused to play that instrument and hauled the YM with me in the bus.

Since then I bought a circa 1970 Besson New Standard with the 17” bell and the narrow receiver. I had planned to play it with a DW 1. However this instrument works way better for me, when played through the exact same PT-50.

I haven’t seen or played your tuba. Still I will try to trace potential problem areas.

1st: The compensating system mentioned in the subject line hardly is the root of the problem. The valves may be leaky, but on the open notes told of, shot valves would be a problem, compensating or not.

2nd: The bell collars may be leaky, but that rather would cause problems way higher in the overtone series, not on the 3rd partial.

3rd: The mouthpiece may leak at the receiver, because the overlapping surfaces are small. But if so, your problems likely would be much worse.

4th: The water key cork may be leaky. That position in the main bugle is much more likely to be a culprit for your problem.

5th: Bell front instruments are tempting targets for some minor minds to throw at thereby causing inner obstructions. Take off the bell, position the body safely on towels or the like in an area, where spattering water will do no harm hold a hose with warm, but not overly hot, water tightly to the leadpipe receiver and flush the inside of the tuba. While you are at it, have somebody press the valves in all thinkable permutations (you need your hand to hold the hose steady, as only high speed water will help).

Take out the slides to empty the tuba. I actually blow the tuba empty before taking out the slides. Clean slides and valves. Grease and oil. Play. report to TubeNet.

Klaus Smedegaard Bjerre

[iiipopes]

In addition to what Klaus said, the Wick 1, not the Wick 2, is the mouthpiece really designed for these compensators. Like you, I can't get good centered tone for anything on a Wick 2 on my Besson, which is the same as yours but for the bell up.

However, using a Wick 1, especially the newer "classic" style instead of the older funnel style, I get superb intonation, centering and clarity all the way from bottom to top.

Like Klaus said, the probable culprits are leaky water key corks and "target practice."

[iiipopes]

Yes, but doesn't the 988 have the larger .510 shank tip receiver?

I use a Kelly 18 with the Besson when I'm playing outdoors for the season: Christmas parades, Salvation Army kettles, caroling, etc. It also does alright, in spite of sticking out of the receiver too far, and the intonation is good. I lose a bit of depth of tone, being a bowl instead of a funnel, but outdoors, especially in the cold, it doesn't matter.

[imperialbari]

I ramble.

Quite a few folks out of New Orleans appear to ramble:

http://tinyurl.com/yojmep

Where do you come from?

Klaus

[imperialbari]

Ok so i need a denis wick #1 or #2 without an L at the end of it. This should solve my problem.

Sorry, but how do you come to this conclusion of this thread?

The DW1 may solve your problem, but the spectrum of potential problems is somewhat wider. Why not check the other potential roots of the problems?

Klaus

[tofu]

[imperialbari]

The PT-50 is available with the small shank also.

Klaus

[iiipopes]

All PT mouthpieces are available with a small shank, but you may have to special order one, as they are not usually common stock items.

Make no mistake, and I'll be the first to say it: using a Wick 1 is not an automatic cure-all. All I said was that the Wick 1 was specifically designed for Besson/Boosey comps, and I get good results out of the combination. So do a lot of other people. Your mileage will vary.

I forgot to say above that leaks on a Besson will tend to make intonation go flat on certain notes, not necessarily completely "fluff out" from the antinode being interrupted as it can on other horns, because of the "built like a tank" nature of older Bessons/Booseys. Take duct tape or golfer's lead tape and wrap suspected leaks, especially the common flattened outer side of the lower bow ferrule that is usually damaged from the tuba improperly being set on its bell, then tipping over. Intonation should improve marginally on the affected notes.

Definitely check water keys and obstructions.

[imperialbari]

I am not up and running on Bach’s supply policies, but they used to be willing to supply their cup designs with stems different from the models in the catalogue. But you have to pay them for the custom version. How much is something to investigate. Or have your repairman change the receiver to a large one.

Klaus