a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by adam0408 »

Bob1062 wrote:I don't own an F tuba, and have never really played one outside of a store but.....

Isn't this kinda obvious? NOT against Bloke, but this seems to imply that some/alot (?) of people play that note "somewhere else" on it. :?
It may be obvious in theory, but in practice it is much more difficult to execute. The only way to get comfortable with this awkward range on an F is to play a lot down there, as unpleasant as the sounds that come out may be for quite some time.

Bloke's tip is a good one, and should help people out. F tubas can be really finnicky beasts and need some coaxing to do what you want.
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by pierso20 »

I agree with bloke that a different embouchure here helps.

What I would really suggest is to firstly NOT think of F tuba like your primary keyed horn...or much of a "tuba" at all. Think of it as a different instrument. Having said that, find out how to play that stinkin note, and practice it. If you play it for what it is and not in relationship to the same note on your other horn, then you will have a better chance for success.

Something else worth mentioning too is to record yourself and let other people hear you. As others will probably confirm, F tuba's are interesting in that it may sound pretty strange to you (the low C etc.) but to a listener sound as it should. I experience this a bit with my horn as well.

So....here's the gist,

It's a bass tuba, not a contrabass.
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by Rick Denney »

Bob1062 wrote:Isn't this kinda obvious?
No. And you've kicked one of my favorite anthills, and will now have to pay the price by scrolling past a really long post that you (and everyone else) probably won't read.

Bloke is reiterating something he said a long time ago, buried in one of the threads I linked to in my comparison of my two B&S F tubas.

The low C is Issue Number One for many newcomers to the F. It was for me, because my first F tuba had a dreadful low register. Being able to play solidly in the low register was my main reason for getting rid of that tuba in favor of the Yamaha 621. I know that I'm not the only person who has based my decision on that issue, be it hobbyist or professional.

The archives are replete with questions about how to manage the low C, and which instruments do it best.

Fact is, lots of European players do just fine and don't understand our problem. So, some of our good players have a problem with it, but most of their good players don't. What's the difference?

1. Their good players play F as their main instrument, and get so used to how it blows that the way it blows defines their "normal".

2. Our good players play C as their main instrument, and the low C on an F tuba just isn't going to rock and roll the way it will on a C tuba.

Some F tubas have low C's that really do feel unfocused, and some don't. The ones that don't often have the least characteristic F tuba sound. So, the unfocused low C seems to be a byproduct of the classic F tuba sound, requiring a balance between those competing goals. One ranking member of Tubenet (from out in the woodshed) expressed the opinion some time ago that the PT-10 produces THE archetype German F tuba sound, and everything else is evaluated against it. (He may have changed his opinion since then, but I bet not.) The F tuba makers who are trying to sell into the U.S. market keep trying to get a low C that plays like the low C on a C tuba without undermining the classic sound. And some are trying to produce an F tuba that can do contrabass tuba duty, and sound like a C.

Bloke's point is that maybe this isn't the problem. We all hear folks trying out their first F tuba in various Elephant Rooms, and one of the first things they do is push in the fourth valve and belt (or is that blat) out a low C to see how easily it plays. I've done it; we've all done it. Do we immediately pick up a C tuba and evaluate its usefulness in the world based on an immediate test of the low G? No, we usually start on low C and go up from there first. And blowing the low C on an F tuba that way we might on a contrabass is like blowing a low F on a bass trombone the way we might on a tuba. You have to feed the resonance rather than force it. I find that I have to do the same thing playing low F on my Holton Bb tuba. If I push air, the note won't speak at all.

With that understanding, some of the F tubas that have "solved" the low C problem might have given up something in the process--something important--in trying to make it play more like a contrabass.

Bloke and I (and some others) probably find common ground around the notion that against all odds, considering Communist central planning and such, the B&S folks jumped out of the gate after their formation in the 60's with an F tuba that provides perhaps the best balance of blow and sound that has yet been achieved. And maybe some of the changes since then have gained some things at the expense of things we don't want to lose. (Inexplicably to me, the low C seems harder to focus and center on the newer PT-ized B&S tubas than on the old Symphonie design with the narrow-bore 1, 5, and 6.)

One symptom of the disease is the notion that the old Symphonie is a small F tuba. The Symphonie/3100 is 39 inches tall and has a (approximately) 17" bell. It fits, without much empty space, in the same gig bag I use for my Bb Miraphone 186. It is not a small F tuba. Even the smaller bore of the first valves in the air path are nearly as big as the valves on C tubas like the Conn 56J or Getzen G50. You can just about roll a quarter through the main tuning slide. It's the tuba used by many an orchestra pro in the former Second World as their main instrument, and they always managed to be heard, and without sounding ugly.

When I got over my low C hangup, I started to appreciate that clear-but-floating German F tuba sound. That was an epiphany that occurred the night I brought the Symphonie home and compared it with the 621. The Symphonie had clarity, the Yamaha had the woofy fuzz of using too big a mouthpiece on too small an instrument, with too much of a big-tuba concept. One thing I did immediately after that realization was change my old error of using (and defending) a deep contrabass mouthpiece on my Yamaha. It sounds so much better with a real F tuba mouthpiece. When I did that, though, the low C on it became a little less focused. Who'da thought? Yup, I had chosen that mouthpiece the same way I chose the instrument, on the basis of the low C. But the small reduction in easy resonance on the low C was accompanied by the removal of a lot of fuzz in the middle and upper register. That clarity is a hallmark of the F tuba sound, for me. (Bloke said as much about the 621, on this forum and directed to me, probably two or three years before my little epiphany. Some of us learn more slowly.)

Now, the first thing I do when I try out an F tuba is run it up through and above the staff, starting on the low F. That's where it has to have that ethereal quality. I wait a bit to check out the low register, just as I do when trying out contrabass tubas.

If folks would set aside their concern about the low C, and play it the way the tuba wants it to be played, they might end up with instruments that work better for them over the long haul. As usual, some blokes know their stuff.

Rick "wishing for more opportunities to play F tuba" Denney
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by pierso20 »

Rick Denney wrote:
Bob1062 wrote:Isn't this kinda obvious?
No. And you've kicked one of my favorite anthills, and will now have to pay the price by scrolling past a really long post that you (and everyone else) probably won't read.

I took that upon as a personal challenge and, lo and behold, read your whole post. :P

Well said.
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by Neil Bliss »

Rick, thanks for that very interesting post. This twigs a question I've been meaning to ask: what are "characteristic" F tuba mouthpieces?
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by Rick Denney »

Neil Bliss wrote:Rick, thanks for that very interesting post. This twigs a question I've been meaning to ask: what are "characteristic" F tuba mouthpieces?
For me, it's a Mike Finn 4. Shallow and cup-shaped in comparison to the deep funnels and semi-funnels we are used to on contrabass tubas.

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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by k001k47 »

Rick Denney wrote:
One symptom of the disease is the notion that the old Symphonie is a small F tuba. The Symphonie/3100 is 39 inches tall and has a (approximately) 17" bell. It fits, without much empty space, in the same gig bag I use for my Bb Miraphone 186. It is not a small F tuba. Even the smaller bore of the first valves in the air path are nearly as big as the valves on C tubas like the Conn 56J or Getzen G50. You can just about roll a quarter through the main tuning slide. It's the tuba used by many an orchestra pro in the former Second World as their main instrument, and they always managed to be heard, and without sounding ugly.


Rick "wishing for more opportunities to play F tuba" Denney
Don't piston horns typically have smaller bores than rotary horns?
I'm not saying the newer Symphonie horns aren't big, because they are big bass tubas.
Maybe comparing it to your 186 would show how big it is :P

Whenever I start running into low range problems on F tuba, I try to think about playing by >sound<;
Trying to "feel" a low C is too hard im(not so)ho because that range feels insecure.
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by Rick Denney »

k001k47 wrote:Don't piston horns typically have smaller bores than rotary horns?
Yes. But rotary tubas typically have much longer leadpipes than do piston tubas. For example, the leadpipe on my Miraphone is almost 28 inches long. The leadpipe on the B&S, though, does not wrap around and along the upper bow as on most rotary tubas. It proceeds fairly directly to one of the side ports on the fifth valve, and it much closer to the length of a typical piston-tuba straight-in leadpipe.

But let's do compare: The bore of the Miraphone is .770, and it holds that bore through the downstream end of the main tuning slide, which is 62 inches into the bugle from the mouthpiece. So, the bore is 0.35% of the length of the bugle at a point 29% into the bugle. At that same point in the B&S the bore is no less than .827, or .57% of the bugle. So, when comparing it to the Miraphone by (as Fred Young once suggested) comparing the dimensionless ratios, the B&S is actually quite a bit bigger. That's not considering the fact that the small bore of the old Symphonie only persists through one short valve, and grows to the same dimension as any 4/4 rotary contrabass by the time it reaches the second valve.

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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by MartyNeilan »

This is one of the areas where "play by sound, not by feel" rings true. I got to do some recording today of my practice on my Mirafone 1st gen goldbrass 181 (a BAF). The medium low register may feel a little funky on some notes, but once you get used to it, open up and relax, and work WITH the horn instead or AGAINST it, the notes sound just fine past the bell. I was actually surprised at how I could not hear a distinct difference between a low F and the D, C, and Bb below it, despite the drastic difference in feel of those notes. My previous concerns about tone color were also relieved; with the small leadpipe, Bobo Solo mouthpiece, and removal of unnecessary junk, the horn sounds like a tuba (not a big euph aka YFB-621) but still has a clear, distinct voice that is virtually edge free in all volumes and ranges. No one will mistake this BAF for a DuoGravis.
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by MaryAnn »

bloke wrote:There are a few F tubas on the market that offer a "low C" range that can be played easily with the same relatively "loose" embouchure that produces these pitches on most BBb and CC tubas.

Those F tubas, though, are not always the F tubas that offer the most interesting resonance or the best intonation.

If you're relatively new to playing F tuba, and own a so-called "German" F tuba with a seemingly very narrow tolerance for embouchure/air placement to produce a nice, resonant "C" and "B-natural" below the staff, you might try this:

1/ Play "F" at the bottom of the staff.

2/ Play "C" below the "F" with the same embouchure, air and loudness that you used to play the "F".

bloke "I guarantee no satisfactory results, but I charged nothing for the tip."
So ok, I'm going to stir the pot a little and surely open myself up to being "bloked" again.

I finally got around to trying this experiment last night on my 182. Now, over time I've become pretty comfortable with the low C and thereabouts but would never claim to sound like a pro while playing it. But I don't avoid it, neither.

So: I set up chops, played the F below the staff, pushed the proper valves down and played again. What came out was a very, very unfocused F. Sort of sharp because the tuba was really trying to play the G that fit the valves that were down, but it was an F. Nowhere near a C.

So much for that.

MA
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by pierso20 »

I've noticed a similar response with the low C on my horn. However, when I play a "C" and not another note, magically a "C" is audible....so my advice to anyone..? Play a "C". (Which requires a very firm embouchure).
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by ztuba »

just get a yamaha YFB-822s and you won't have to worry about anything! Just kidding... I think If I could do it all over again, I would learn to play F tuba before buying an F tuba. Borrowing instruments ... learning berlioz excerpts on it and maybe the first page of the R V williams concerto. Maybe even learning f fingerings on cc tuba for these pieces and then just blowing them down on f tuba ... cause then you are not comparing your c with an open note you are comparing it to a G... which blows significantly differently
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by Wyvern »

I have been playing the Bordogni Andante cantabile study in F (#1 in Robert King book, or #4 in Wesley Jacobs/Encore book) to work on my F tuba low C. Slow and lyrical and including a number of low C's it is ideal for that purpose.
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Re: a possible playing tip for newcomers to F tubas

Post by Rick Denney »

pierso20 wrote:(Which requires a very firm embouchure).
Which is, of course, the point.

When people play a low C on their C tuba, they sometimes just let their embouchure relax into the note and depend on the resonance of the tuba. Do that with the low C on many German-style F tubas and you might not get the C. On some F's, it's a little like playing a false tone on a Bb. Approached properly, the false tone makes a completely proper sound, though it feels different. I have been playing with my minidisc recorder this evening and checked the sound of the false tones on my Holton. The 2-4 E and the open false-tone Eb had the same tone in the recording. But they sure felt different. That false-tone Eb won't be an Eb if you don't buzz an Eb.

The point is not that you buzz an F and expect a C (that is directed at Ms. Pot-Stirrer), but that you set your embouchure for the C the same way you do for the F, instead of relaxing into it. It's sorta like how you get a good low F on a bass trombone.

RIck "not having much trouble with those low C's any more on may 'problem' F tubas" Denney
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