RV oil down leadpipe

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sailn2ba
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RV oil down leadpipe

Post by sailn2ba »

It's been recommended that I put few drops of oil down the leadpipe every day. I read the discussion on this practice with piston valves, but I'm curious of folks' opinions and experience with rotary valves. . . . especially the reference to "gray sludge".
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Dan Schultz
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by Dan Schultz »

Some folks think that perhaps if you have a 'squeaky clean' tuba.... light oil down the leadpipe might help keep mineral deposits from sticking to the inside of the horn.

I use a heavy oil on the front and rear bearings and all of the linkage pivot points. I often put a very lightweight oil like ultra-pure lamp oil down the leadpipe to flush gunk out of the rotors. I'm not stingy with it. I also run plain warm water through the entire valve section after removing the main tuning slide. I'm a firm believer in keep my horns flushed out.

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Kevin Hendrick
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by Kevin Hendrick »

Dan, I've used the same method you described on my horn for 35 years, and everything still works fine. I was told that the oil down the leadpipe would help inhibit red rot and other corrosion, as well.
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Wyvern
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by Wyvern »

I frequently put oil down the leadpipe to aid lubrication of the rotary valves. Not every day, but maybe once a week.

In four years I have only once possibly had slide grease as a result get into a rotor and slow. Then it was just a simple matter of flushing through with warm soapy water to clear.

So on balance, I think a few drops down the leadpipe does no harm and may well do good.
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SplatterTone
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by SplatterTone »

I buy the low priced, 16 fl. oz. bottle of oil from whoever (like Roche Thomas from wwbw for $5.99). Every time I play, using a trombone sprayer, spray three shots in every leg of every slide, and five shots into the lead pipe. After playing, remove all slides and hang them open end down on the tuba stand, and hang the horn bell down on a String Swing guitar hanger, so water can drain.

The oil keeps poop from sticking to sufaces and prevents oxidation, but mildew can eat the oil. It doesn't live in the oil. It lives in the water, but eats the oil. So drain the water. It usually takes about six months (more or less) before hint of mildew odor at which time I pop out the rotors, slop in the anti-bacterial soap, snake and rinse.

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Wyvern
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by Wyvern »

bloke wrote:- CAREFULLY (without burning myself with high-pressure hot water!) jet hot water through the mouthpipe and out the small size of the main slide.
What temperature of water is safe for the lacquer? I am always concerned about using too hot water for that reason.
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MartyNeilan
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by MartyNeilan »

SplatterTone wrote:Every time I play, using a trombone sprayer, spray three shots in every leg of every slide, and five shots into the lead pipe. After playing, remove all slides and hang them open end down on the tuba stand, and hang the horn bell down on a String Swing guitar hanger, so water can drain.
That sounds like a great idea...
BUT,
in the real world, if I have a fairly limited practice window many days, and have two five valve horns (with some longer valves having multiple slides) I could easily see this entire procedure eating up half of my available time.
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SplatterTone
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by SplatterTone »

MartyNeilan wrote: That sounds like a great idea...
BUT,
in the real world, ...
I'm from the government. I don't live in the real world.
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Re: RV oil down leadpipe

Post by tubeast »

Here´s what I do:
- every few weeks I squirt light oil down the leadpipe. I´ll do that a little more frequently than I oil the valve mechanism with much heavier oil (Hetman´s 13 and 15)
- maybe once a year I flush my horns. I set my tuba upright into a shower cabin. Then I install a little pump (driven by the common handheld drilling machine) with two shower hoses. One is dumped into the bell, the other goes on the leadpipe. All valves are pressed and held in place by tape.
Apply some mild detergent or a little vinegar (NOT both at the same time!!), and let the drill do the work for maybe 10 minutes. Works great and won´t use up too much valuable, perfectly pure water.
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