SULFURIC ANODIZE and tubas?

[JHardisk]

Has anyone ever experimented with Anodizing parts of their tubas? Clearly for finish effect, with no performance expectations.

Since my tubas have had much work done to them, I'm left with some "footprints" and remnants of that work. At some point, I will want to fix them cosmetically. Which has led me to the idea of some spot plating and spot lacquering. Which got me thinking... If I'm going to spot plate a tuba, why not "pimp" it out further? I was thinking either gold plated or anodized valve caps and bottoms.. maybe slides too? I've got the luxury of having 2 well known plating companies here in my back yard, and I'm sure a small plating job like this would be easy.

Anyone experimented with this? I'd love to have some blue valve caps, and gold plated this and thats!

[JHardisk]

Joe,

I was hoping you'd chime in.

I expected to get a, "Why in the H3!! would you want to do that, chump?" from you though. I'm disappointed

I'm looking at possibly electroplating the spots of silver and it looks like brush on gold electroplating is possible too. Since I'm not overly concerned with the protective effect of the finish... it's purely cosmetic, I think this might be possible. I'm debating between screwing around with a home plating kit (not on my tubas first), or letting a reputable shop do it(directly on my tubas/parts). I know that nickel plating is likely the first step before applying silver or gold to anything.

Another thought I've debated was having my valves nickel plated as well. The stainless steel is just not as slick as nickel. I understand that most places like to copper plate before nickel plating, too.

I'm just tossing around ideas... to see if I'm the only crazy one.

[iiipopes]

I, for one, prefer piston valves of monel or hard nickel plating, because (unsubstantiatied bias) I wonder if the harder stainless steel now used in valves will wear the valve casings instead. And it's a hell-u-va-lot cheaper to rebuild the valves with only minor honing of the casings, than to re-round worn casings and have to plate the valves anyway to oversize and grind, hone, then lap them into place in addition to, as that's going to have to be done anyway, regardless.

[Dan Schultz]

Any plating you do needs to be done selectively. You can't just toss parts (or a whole horn) into a tank and expect things to fit back together. If all you want to do is add a little color... try some of the brush-plating kits that Caswell has to offer. As Bloke mentioned, though... this type of plating is not very durable and is usually only done for touch-up after a repair or to get a horn 'sold'.

I stumbled onto some stuff that I have been using on my personal horns. It's more of a protection against tarnish and galvanic effects than anything. It's a military-developed sealer called Coricone 1700. It's simply 'wiped-on' non-ferrous metals and has virtually no coating build-up. I've been using it over a Scotch-Brite finish on raw brass with very good results. The really nice thing is... since it's not a thick coating... areas on the horn had be re Scotch-Brited (is that a good term) and the finish/seal rewiped on.

[Kevin Hendrick]

Wasn't aware that anodizing could be done to anything but aluminum ...

[Harvey Hartman]

I stumbled onto some stuff that I have been using on my personal horns. It's more of a protection against tarnish and galvanic effects than anything. It's a military-developed sealer called Coricone 1700. It's simply 'wiped-on' non-ferrous metals and has virtually no coating build-up. I've been using it over a Scotch-Brite finish on raw brass with very good results. The really nice thing is... since it's not a thick coating... areas on the horn had be re Scotch-Brited (is that a good term) and the finish/seal rewiped on.
Hi Dan I remember you talking about the Coricone 1700 a few years back and I was wondering How it worked for you.I remember at the time you put it on a pices of brass that you carried in your pocket? The place that they make it Feasterville Pa. not far from my home in Boyertown? thanks Harv.

[Dan Schultz]

Hi Dan I remember you talking about the Coricone 1700 a few years back and I was wondering How it worked for you.I remember at the time you put it on a pices of brass that you carried in your pocket? The place that they make it Feasterville Pa. not far from my home in Boyertown? thanks Harv.

Hi, Harv!

The sealer works VERY well, indeed. I use it on all of my raw brass horns and it's also been on several horns that I've sold recently. I lost the piece that I coated and kept in my pocket long ago. But... I've had an old Blessing marching bell laying OUTSIDE for over a year now and where I applied the Corricone is still bright and quite preserved. I think it's a VERY good alternative to raw brass and not anywhere near the trouble of applying lacquer. The manufacturers web page indicates that they now sell to the general public. A few years ago, I had a tough time finding the stuff and had to purchase a gallon. BTW... I'll bet I've used it on way over a dozen or so horns and have only used perhaps a pint or so out of the gallon. As I mentioned earlier... this stuff is like water and wipes on. There is virtually no coating build-up. Try it!

[Harvey Hartman]

Hi Dan... So do you put in a pump spray bottle? Or Just wipe it on and let it dry? Thanks Harv.

[Dan Schultz]

Hi Dan... So do you put in a pump spray bottle? Or Just wipe it on and let it dry? Thanks Harv.

This stuff is thinner than water. It certainly would not clog a spray bottle but the mechanism might not hold up to the solvents. That might be worth a try but I usually just apply it with a brush and just let it run off the valve casings and tubing. Then... go over the whole horn with a small cloth that is saturated. It's too thin to make brush marks or drips. It dries to the touch in just a few minutes and cures overnight or can be accelerated with a little heat.

I think the manufacturer offers it in spray cans.

[Roger Lewis]

I believe there is a process for spot "galvanizing" silver finishes. Markus Theinert mentioned this to me. I'll try to get more information on it.

Roger