oil for rotars

[tubaguy9]

You can use synthetics on rotors. Hetmans makes some that are good. Most importantly, make sure on rotors that the oil you use is a bit thicker or else the rotor won't feel/work right.

[Allen]

I have been happy using Blue Juice for quite a few years. I put a few shots down the leadpipe, then tilt the tuba back and forth while working the valves.

Allen

[Chriss2760]

3-in-1 works well for me on the rotary valves of my Miraphone 186, on the rare occasion I need a lubricant. (It would appear that Paulaner lager and jaegerschnitzel have forestalled the need for more direct lubrication.)

[iiipopes]

Roger Lewis recommends sewing machine oil for the spindle bearings and 3-N-1 oil for the rotor linkage.

Optimally, five lubricants are needed: a thicker slide grease for the slides that are pulled and set, like the main -- I like Zaja, but you will find preferences for everything from Vasoline to pure anhydrous lanolin; a lighter slide grease for "riding throttle" on #1 -- I like Ultrapure light; the above mentioned sewing machine oil for the spindle bearings -- a 4-oz bottle of Singer brand is only @$2 at Wallyworld; the above-mentioned 3-N-1 oil for the linkage, which is inexpensive at every hardware store; and finally, a bottle of valve oil to occasionally drip directly onto a rotor down a tube if it has dried out or a little gunk needs flushing -- I prefer Roche-Thomas, a lot of guys use Al Cass, etc.

[Slamson]

When I got my PT-10P, I decided to forsake Al Cass (which I'd been using for years on my other horns) and use a synthetic. At first it was great - smooth as silk. Then after a few days my valves started sticking. More oil, more sticking. Then I noticed that when I pulled out the pistons there was this white, gummy stuff all over them.

I took it to my instrument tech and he started laughing. As he set up a time for me to bring it in for a flush, he said that certain people have certain chemicals in their saliva that react with the synthetic and basically create little beads of plastic - apparently white plastic.

When I got the horn back, it was put on a strict diet of Al Cass. Been working fine for four years.

[iiipopes]

If you're going to thicken up valve oil, the most compatible oil to do that with is pharmacy grade mineral oil: add a drop at a time to an ounce of oil to get to your required viscosity. I've done that on instruments with worn valves to great success. If it gets a little thick, just dilute it back down with a little more of the same valve oil base.

[tuneitup]

At first it was great - smooth as silk. Then after a few days my valves started sticking. More oil, more sticking. Then I noticed that when I pulled out the pistons there was this white, gummy stuff all over them.

I took it to my instrument tech and he started laughing. As he set up a time for me to bring it in for a flush, he said that certain people have certain chemicals in their saliva that react with the synthetic and basically create little beads of plastic - apparently white plastic.

After I read this thread, I switched my oil from the certain brand name synthetic to Blue Juice. I was doing the same thing---more problem, more oil, but it was not helping. After a week or so after the switch, the years of sticky rotor problems were gone.

Thank you guys for your help.