Buttons falling off?

[TheHatTuba]

The finger buttons on my 52j refuse to stop falling off in my gig bag. Anyone have any ideas how to keep them where they belong (besides putting them on tighter )?

[Dan Schultz]

The finger buttons on my 52j refuse to stop falling off in my gig bag. Anyone have any ideas how to keep them where they belong (besides putting them on tighter )?

Now.... THAT's an interesting question! I've been playing tuba since 1958 and I've NEVER had that happen. I also need to know... just in case.

[TheHatTuba]

I wonder if extra thick tuning grease would help or make it worse...

[pgym]

How old is the 52J? Could wear and tear from fiddling with the finger buttons over the years have worn down the threads on the buttons and stems so they no longer mate securely? If that's the problem, a repair tech or metalworking shop might be able to fill and re-tap the stems and/or fill and re-cut the threads on the finger buttons to fit. (Or, if you're handy with a soldering iron, maybe tinning the threads (or even wrapping them with teflon tape if you're not handy with a soldering iron) on the finger buttons would build them up enough to provide a secure purchase.)

[imperialbari]

I have the same happen with stop arm screws on rotary valves before I could just ask somebody via the web. Living far from brass shops, I used a reversible method with an easily accessible supply. The irreversibility is what I don’t like about Brian’s advice.

I clipped a snippet off a clear plastic bag like those used for freezing food items. Placed the snippet over the tip of the screw before screwing it into place. If the screw will not enter the female thread, then the snippet likely is either too thick or too wide.

Klaus

[Dan Schultz]

The obvious answer is to simply tighten those fingerbuttons up a bit.

Worst case.. if the threads are bad in the stems... those little buggers retail for only $7.50 each. Fingerbuttons are a little more expensive but at $16 each, I would think them to be affordable if one is causing trouble and the threads are bad.

If you fiddle around with buggering up the threads or using mechanical thread locking stuff... you're going to end up replacing stuff anyway.

[TheHatTuba]

Problem on some tuba (including mine), the stem is directly connected to the piston (which costs a little more than $7.50!!)

[Dan Schultz]

Problem on some tuba (including mine), the stem is directly connected to the piston (which costs a little more than $7.50!!)

??? Do you mean that the stems aren't just screwed into the tops of the pistons???

[Dan Schultz]

If you fiddle around with buggering up the threads or using mechanical thread locking stuff... you're going to end up replacing stuff anyway.

Agreed with the idea of damaging the threads and then twisting the buttons on, or clogging the threads with plastic or (perhaps?) teflon tape. The value of blue (NOT red) loctite it it is designed to hold assembled thread torque, but still break loose if/when dis-assembly is required (do not use red because it is much stronger, un-necessary for your use and often requires heat for dis-assembly

Maybe they're just not tight enough? It'd be pretty difficult to gorilla-tighten them to the point where the threads are weakened/stripped, wouldn't it? Sounds like an odd problem, wish I'd never presumed to give an answer

Oh... I didn't mean to imply that Locktite was a bad idea. I'm just trying to make a point that fingerbuttons simply falling off while inside a bag or case shouldn't be a problem at all.

[TheHatTuba]

Problem on some tuba (including mine), the stem is directly connected to the piston (which costs a little more than $7.50!!)

??? Do you mean that the stems aren't just screwed into the tops of the pistons???

They are not. The piston and stem are 1 piece. Is this odd?

[Dan Schultz]

Problem on some tuba (including mine), the stem is directly connected to the piston (which costs a little more than $7.50!!)

??? Do you mean that the stems aren't just screwed into the tops of the pistons???

They are not. The piston and stem are 1 piece. Is this odd?

Well... Every stem I've seen with the exception for some Bohm & Meinl & Marzan tubas have been screwed into the top of the piston cap. On those horns, the stem is separate but brazed to the cap before soldering into the piston sleeve.

Even the 52J parts list from Conn/Selmer indicates that the stem is a separate part. I just assumed that yours were no different. I could certainly be wrong.