Slide stop

[ralphbsz]

My son plays a Meinl-Weston 25. He's just learning to pull the 4th valve slide for a few notes that are otherwise sharp (I think he uses it for the really low C, just above the pedal Bb, and for the B natural just below the staff). The only problem is that he isn't very good at it, and sometimes the whole slide comes tumbling out. Oops. Unfortunately, the 4th valve slide on the MW25 is only about 4" long, so there isn't much margin for error.

His teacher suggested a slide stop. I have found remarkably little information about something like that on the web. I was going to improvise something with a plastic tubing clamp (maybe padded to prevent marring the brass), and a string, attached to the nearest brace (there is one conveniently right below the slide). The range of the slide stop can be "adjusted" by knotting the string to the brace in the correct position, and the whole thing can be easily removed for cleaning. I just have to get a plastic clamp (lab supply store, or mail-order from McMaster).

Anyone have a better idea? Something wrong with my plan? Is this a short-term teaching aid that can be removed after a few weeks? Or should something like this be installed permanently (we have a good tuba smith in the area, who could solder a nice ring to the slide)?

[imperialbari]

Slide stops are seen with tubas, but not nearly as often as with the 3rd slide on trumpets.

What you suggest is very close to what I have used with student tubas and euphs, when the main slide was on the short side. I used to be very good with knots, so I used leather strings (acid free). Today I rather would use a thin nylon string of the wound rope type (or a woven one). In your situation I would mount the string quite solidly to the slide crook (non-slip knots), whereas I would use a quick-release knot at the stay end. I don’t know the proper English terms when it comes to knots. Hopefully you still get the idea.

Klaus

[eupher61]

Hmm...posted double, can't delete on the phone.

[eupher61]

ThAt, or a trumpet valve slide stop. It's a threaded rod, soldered and fixed on the fixed tube, then a pass through is put on theslide, with a nut on the end or at whichever length. It's easy to mount, by a repair tech, and they always have 'm lying around. Easy to remove, too.

[sousaphone68]

http://youtu.be/IWkoGs40fS0" target="_blank" target="_blank

Chris Olka
Seattle Symphony

If you watch the video you will see an example of Klaus's suggestion in action made of ribbon(edit white string)

[Mark]

http://youtu.be/IWkoGs40fS0" target="_blank

Chris Olka
Seattle Symphony

If you watch the video you will see an example of Klaus's suggestion in action made of ribbon

Actually, it is just a length of white string.

[TheHatTuba]

You could try a couple marching lyres and a piece of cord.

[eupher61]

What Mr Elephant posted, complete with photo, is exactly what I meant above. I had that on my B&S F 1st valve for 26 years, until it broke last year--the threaded rod sheared off. I've figured out other ways of getting pitch right on that horn, so I haven't replaced it. Yet.

[imperialbari]

As if this thread actually yearns for more comments,

If a slide is spring-loaded (in order to reduce weight) the rod and stop nuts should be mounted on the stationary slide, rather than the one that moves.

I don’t get how spring-loading reduces weight? (Unless this is a reference to an unbearably false statement about a certain device removing weight from the tuba).

Klaus

[Mark]

As if this thread actually yearns for more comments,

If a slide is spring-loaded (in order to reduce weight) the rod and stop nuts should be mounted on the stationary slide, rather than the one that moves.

I don’t get how spring-loading reduces weight? (Unless this is a reference to an unbearably false statement about a certain device removing weight from the tuba).

Klaus

I think what Joe meant was that the weight should be reduced on the moving part of the slide.

[imperialbari]

Makes sense!

Klaus

[ralphbsz]

Thanks for all the tips! This weekend (when I have a little spare time), I'll build a simple slide stop, with just string and maybe a clamp. That will be a good starting point, and we'll take it from there.

[ralphbsz]

Wrap the top of the slide, right in the center soft electrical tape, about 3/4" wide, several times. This is so the "string" won't slip off sideways, because it can grip into electrical tape. Then take a "string" (from the department of spare shoelaces, those hold knots well) and wrap it around the top of the slide nice and tight, and secure it with a really tight knot. Now there are two ends of shoelace dangling down; loop them around the nearest brace (right below the slide), adjust the length, and make another very tight knot. Done. No hoseclamp required, at least not so far. From a distance you can't even see it (I used a black shoelace).

Let's see whether this survives, and whether it's needed in the long term. My hunch is: after playing with it for a few weeks, the tuba student will get the hang of it, and it won't even be needed any longer.