Mirafone Linkage Question

[Cameron Gates]

Currently there is this fine looking horn on the for sale page:

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=53616" target="_blank" target="_blank

The serial number is 108xx and the buyer indicates it was built around '77. This instrument has "S" style linkage.

I owned a 184 with a number of 10307 built in '76 (killer horn btw) that had the white plastic rod ends.

Were the plastic connectors simply an option that Mirafone offered? Did the company ever drop the "S" linkage as a standard for the plastic ends?

I would imagine that the company will build you anything you want, even now. My question is was there a time when the plastic was the standard and the "S" an option?

[ScottM]

I think there was a change between 1972 and 1975. I bought my original Mirafone in 1972 and it had the old 's' linkage. I bought a former classmates horn that was purchased in 1975 originally and it has the nylon ball and socket linkage. Both are 184's but the 72 is a four valve and the 75 is a five valve. I frankly don't understand the complaints on the ball and socket as it is original and still works fine.
ScottM

[ScottM]

I haven't seen the newer models so didn't know that. I play in a local community concert band and there is a Mirafone 186 in the section. I guess I will have to take a look at the linkage more closely.
I hope to go to MWRTEC so maybe can see some newer horns there.
ScottM

[Dan Schultz]

I think there was a change between 1972 and 1975. I bought my original Mirafone in 1972 and it had the old 's' linkage. I bought a former classmates horn that was purchased in 1975 originally and it has the nylon ball and socket linkage. Both are 184's but the 72 is a four valve and the 75 is a five valve. I frankly don't understand the complaints on the ball and socket as it is original and still works fine.
ScottM

I think this information is pretty accurate. Miraphone 'bounced around' on the linkage types. That being said... Most of the plastic sockets I've seen were cracked. Parts are still available for all of the linkages but the 'S' bars come attached to the levers.

[Cameron Gates]

I think this information is pretty accurate. Miraphone 'bounced around' on the linkage types.

Could it be that the white plastic was offered mainly on 5 valved instruments that had the right thumb 5th? I have never seen an S linkage on a right thumb fifth on a Mirafone. Rudy did it, but Mirafone? If they did I want to see some pics.

[Dan Schultz]

I think this information is pretty accurate. Miraphone 'bounced around' on the linkage types.

Could it be that the white plastic was offered mainly on 5 valved instruments that had the right thumb 5th? I have never seen an S linkage on a right thumb fifth on a Mirafone. Rudy did it, but Mirafone? If they did I want to see some pics.

I seem to think the 5th valve used the plastic sockets even though 'S' links were on the 1st four rotors.

[imperialbari]

In Germany Miraphone marketed their rotary tubas in various constellations of features in model classes (likely price categories also): 01000, 03000, 04000, 07000, 09000, or 11000.

Samples and specs sheet may be seen in my galleries under the index entry of

Miraphone rotary tubas, illustrations from a circa 1993 catalogue

Klaus

[Cameron Gates]

There definitely was an overlap period. During the same time, Sun Valley was shipping out CC tubas with "DVS" linkage, and (yes) BBb's with mostly S-arm linkage.

Aha. Now there's some news ya can use. Thanks.

[Mikelynch]

I have a very early (1960) 5V 184 that came with an S-style linkage on the 5th valve; and also a ~1963 186 5V that has the same.

[iiipopes]

Since the S linkage has swaged bearings and different structure, it is quite a job to convert S to Dubro or equivalent.

[Rick Denney]

I think this information is pretty accurate. Miraphone 'bounced around' on the linkage types.

Could it be that the white plastic was offered mainly on 5 valved instruments that had the right thumb 5th? I have never seen an S linkage on a right thumb fifth on a Mirafone. Rudy did it, but Mirafone? If they did I want to see some pics.

No. My 185-4U Bb had the white plastic joints. And they were indeed cracked. I suspect the white nylon they used was subject to UV or ozone attack.

I replaced them with Du-Bro links and those have worked fine for the subsequent 25 years or so.

It's certainly possible that they still had old stock of S-linkage parts they were working through, and that they saved those parts for instruments that didn't have the thumb control for the fifth valve. Ray Grim's 186-5U C had S-links, but it has a left-hand fifth. It's from the earlier part of this period, though. Mine was from the tail end of this period.

Rick "suspecting that the provision of a right-thumb fifth-valve control started later in this period" Denney

[Rick Denney]

Since the S linkage has swaged bearings and different structure, it is quite a job to convert S to Dubro or equivalent.

It's really not difficult. As a matter of fact, once the T-joint is removed and discarded (or stored away with other junk), the steel rod is just lead soldered into the finger paddle assembly's lower arm...and once it's unscrewed (no heat required...' only a tiny bit of muscle) the threads in the lower arm are close enough to 4-40 to screw the DuBro link right in without any tapping.

bloke "not boasting...It really is pretty easy."

If I did it, it can't be that hard. I had no trouble on the lever end, but had to work things out a bit on the stop arm. The stop arm for the Presto linkages has no clevis gap. I ended up epoxying a 4-40 stud into the stop arm threads, slipped the ball link over the stud, and then held it in place with a Nylock nut. It's not as pretty, though I could have dressed it up with chrome, brass, or stainless acorn nuts. With the clevis cap, I usually slide a jam nut into the gap to lock the bold holding the ball link in place. I had to trim the Du-Bro links to clear the stop arm on full travel, and needed a slight bend in the rod as well. But it worked.

The stop arms on the B&S F tuba I converted were already close to 4-40, and the right size for me to run a 4-40 tap through them. The screw holding the ball link in place was plenty snug.

Rick "who always backed up the bolt on the lower arm with a nut for security" Denney