Keeping stainless mouthpiece parts from seizing?

[MartyNeilan]

Any tips on keeping multi piece stainless steel mouthpiece parts from seizing together? I am keeping them absolutely dry but the pieces want to lock together.
My big horn likes the Euro shank and my small horn the American shank. If I go a few days without switching, the parts are extremely difficult to unscrew.

[Ben]

I have used a thin layer of Teflon tape to keep my SS MP's from seizing.

[Dan Schultz]

I've not had that problem but you might try an anti-seize compound like can be found in auto parts stores. I often use it on any threaded parts that have to remain free.

[Art Hovey]

Have you tried the same grease that you use on your tuning slides?
It helps with my brass mouthpiece shank. The teflon tape also sounds like a good idea.

[tofu]

I think that Dave Houser does an outstanding job of precision making of his and others mouthpieces. I tend to over tighten stuff, so I back off with my Houser and Blokepieces to avoid havoc. Perhaps you are over tightening? Maybe they should come with torque settings and mini torque wrenches.

[tubeast]

Hello,

- lubricate (grease or oil of high viscosity)
- tighten with a torque that corresponds to what You can apply with Your fingertips, fingers nearly straight
- think about getting a second MP that will fit the other horn. (My personal favorite.)

I DO get the concept of interchangeable shanks, cups and rims.They´re especially good for those that still search for "the perfect match".
But as soon as You´ve settled on Your preferred combination, a one-piece MP must be a lot cheaper and more convenient than one of these. Imagine You asking the director to please interrupt the performance ´cause You have to reassemble your MP prior to switching horns

Hans, who owns a set of totally different MPs to use with each of his horns, and who frequently switches MPs and/or horns during band practice and performance according to the style of the piece.

[windshieldbug]

I've not had that problem but you might try an anti-seize compound like can be found in auto parts stores. I often use it on any threaded parts that have to remain free.

+1

[bort]

I DO get the concept of interchangeable shanks, cups and rims.They´re especially good for those that still search for "the perfect match".
But as soon as You´ve settled on Your preferred combination, a one-piece MP must be a lot cheaper and more convenient than one of these.

Yep, I agree, and that's where I am with my Blokepiece now. I like the combination I have, and I guess the only reason to take it apart now is to clean out the crud that will likely accumulate in the seams over time.

[cjk]

whenever I have had trouble separating a rim from a backpart, I've always just held onto both parts with grippy shelf liner sheet which I use to keep my big tuba from slipping in my lap. Better grip on the slick parts has been all that I've needed.

[Rick F]

I have a small strap wrench called the "Zyliss Strong Boy". It's actually a kitchen tool, but works great on valve caps and to separate mpc parts. I've used it a few times on my Doug Elliott mpc. Here's a link:

Zyliss Strong Boy

[imperialbari]

Rumours have it that the designer has no problem with keeping the parts apart. Rather his problem is keeping the right parts together.

[windshieldbug]

Rancid bear grease...

Effective, but where does one find all those rancid bears?

[MartyNeilan]

Nearly couldn't get the cup off the shank again, so I raided my around-the-house toolbox (as opposed to the vehicular toolboxes) and put a single layer of Teflon plumbers tape around the shank threads. Getting the rim off the cup was usually not a problem, but getting the cup off the shank is what inspired this thread.
The Teflon tape did the trick. When I switched shanks, there was no difficulty whatsoever. I can see where it would wear off after a number of uses, but reapplying an inch of tape every once and a while should not be a problem.

P.S. I am really loving the Blokepiece Grand Orchestral mouthpiece. It is the first deeper mouthpiece that works well on my massive tuba formerly known as BART. And, I like it in my little Conn, because it gives a fatter sound than the imperial (which seems to be the perfect all around mouthpiece for piston horns that size) but still maintains all the punchiness those horns are know for.