Mouthpiece rules of thumb
- opus37
- 5 valves

- Posts: 1326
- Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:22 pm
- Location: Woodbury, MN
Mouthpiece rules of thumb
Opinions of mouthpieces are very wide ranging and I know your mileage may very, but there are likely rules of thumb for selecting a mouthpiece based on the horns characteristics. I have been of the believe that a cone shaped mouthpiece was generally better for a piston tuba and a bowl shape was better for a rotary valved tuba. That has not proven true for me. A deep bowl sounds better (and is more manageable) on my Martin and Kanstul horn. I'm still trying to figure out what is best for my helicon. I recently discussed mouthpieces with a prominent professional and he is currently using a helberg on a rotary horn. So mouthpiece experts, what are the starting point rules of thumb?
Brian
1892 Courtiere (J.W. Pepper Import) Helicon Eb
1980's Yamaha 321 euphonium
2007 Miraphone 383 Starlight
2010 Kanstul 66T
2016 Bubbie Mark 5
1892 Courtiere (J.W. Pepper Import) Helicon Eb
1980's Yamaha 321 euphonium
2007 Miraphone 383 Starlight
2010 Kanstul 66T
2016 Bubbie Mark 5
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Mark
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
1) In general, when a young tuba player is left to select his or her own mouthpiece they select a mouthpiece that is too large.
2) You should not need different mouthpieces to play high and low.
3) You might want different mouthpieces to change tone color.
4) Siver vs. gold vs. stainless steel vs. plastic might be more significant than lacquer vs. silver.
4a) Raw brass and nickel-plated mouthpieces are bad. (So are radioactive mouthpieces from the-place-that-shall-not-be-mentioned.)
5) If you have different mouthpieces for your bass and contrabass tubas (and you probably should), I beleive it is hepful if the rims are the same.
2) You should not need different mouthpieces to play high and low.
3) You might want different mouthpieces to change tone color.
4) Siver vs. gold vs. stainless steel vs. plastic might be more significant than lacquer vs. silver.
4a) Raw brass and nickel-plated mouthpieces are bad. (So are radioactive mouthpieces from the-place-that-shall-not-be-mentioned.)
5) If you have different mouthpieces for your bass and contrabass tubas (and you probably should), I beleive it is hepful if the rims are the same.
- Jay Bertolet
- pro musician

- Posts: 470
- Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 9:04 am
- Location: South Florida
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
My initial mouthpiece rules of thumb:
1) Funnel style mouthpieces (like the Helleberg) for horns that have a short leadpipe (note that it's not necessarily piston versus rotary).
2) Bowl shaped mouthpieces (like the Bach 18) for horns with longer leadpipes.
3) Choose rim size/shape for comfort.
4) Choose cup size/shape for sound.
5) Choose backbore size/shape for intonation.
There are other factors once the above rules have narrowed the choices but the above should take most folks pretty far into the selection process.
1) Funnel style mouthpieces (like the Helleberg) for horns that have a short leadpipe (note that it's not necessarily piston versus rotary).
2) Bowl shaped mouthpieces (like the Bach 18) for horns with longer leadpipes.
3) Choose rim size/shape for comfort.
4) Choose cup size/shape for sound.
5) Choose backbore size/shape for intonation.
There are other factors once the above rules have narrowed the choices but the above should take most folks pretty far into the selection process.
My opinion for what it's worth...
Principal Tuba - Miami Symphony, Kravis Pops
Tuba/Euphonium Instructor - Florida International University,
Broward College, Miami Summer Music Festival
Principal Tuba - Miami Symphony, Kravis Pops
Tuba/Euphonium Instructor - Florida International University,
Broward College, Miami Summer Music Festival
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ginnboonmiller
- 3 valves

- Posts: 325
- Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:47 pm
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
Find something that works and stick with it. That's it. Corrolary -- don't listen to anyone else's advice as if they knew better than you, because we don't.
I had a lesson once with a guy that had theories about mouthpieces, and he tried to get me to try a couple things that he thought were undoubtedly better than mine. Every time I sounded better on what I brought to the lesson than what he suggested I try. He just sort of scratched his head and told me that I had clearly figured out what worked for me, and that was that.
I had a lesson once with a guy that had theories about mouthpieces, and he tried to get me to try a couple things that he thought were undoubtedly better than mine. Every time I sounded better on what I brought to the lesson than what he suggested I try. He just sort of scratched his head and told me that I had clearly figured out what worked for me, and that was that.
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Heavy_Metal
- 5 valves

- Posts: 1734
- Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:42 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD, USA
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
Many good principles here. From Jay:
"3) Choose rim size/shape for comfort.
4) Choose cup size/shape for sound.
5) Choose backbore size/shape for intonation."
From Mark:
5) If you have different mouthpieces for your bass and contrabass tubas (and you probably should), I beleive (sic) it is hepful (sic) if the rims are the same.
From ginnboonmiller:
"Find something that works and stick with it. That's it. Corrolary (sic)-- don't listen to anyone else's advice as if they knew better than you, because we don't."
I think most mouthpiece advice on this board is offered in the spirit of "this works for me, but your mileage may vary". Personally, I've found that the larger the rim, the better, up to a point. The larger rim puts more of the lip muscle in play, which spreads out the workload and helps endurance. It also keeps the lips further apart when playing, which allows better airflow.
I also find my attack and articulation is better on a Helleberg-type rim than a wider, rounder one. But again, that's just me.
Each player is different, and each horn is different. I would say don't listen to someone with an agenda, unless that agenda is to help you sound as good as you can, regardless of what mouthpiece you end up choosing.
"3) Choose rim size/shape for comfort.
4) Choose cup size/shape for sound.
5) Choose backbore size/shape for intonation."
From Mark:
5) If you have different mouthpieces for your bass and contrabass tubas (and you probably should), I beleive (sic) it is hepful (sic) if the rims are the same.
From ginnboonmiller:
"Find something that works and stick with it. That's it. Corrolary (sic)-- don't listen to anyone else's advice as if they knew better than you, because we don't."
I think most mouthpiece advice on this board is offered in the spirit of "this works for me, but your mileage may vary". Personally, I've found that the larger the rim, the better, up to a point. The larger rim puts more of the lip muscle in play, which spreads out the workload and helps endurance. It also keeps the lips further apart when playing, which allows better airflow.
I also find my attack and articulation is better on a Helleberg-type rim than a wider, rounder one. But again, that's just me.
Each player is different, and each horn is different. I would say don't listen to someone with an agenda, unless that agenda is to help you sound as good as you can, regardless of what mouthpiece you end up choosing.
Last edited by Heavy_Metal on Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Principal tuba, Bel Air Community Band
Old (early 1900s?) Alexander BBb proto-163
1976 Sonora (B&S 101) 4-rotor BBb
1964 Conn 20J/21J BBb (one body, both bells)
~1904 York 3P BBb Helicon
Old Alex Comp.F, in shop
Old (early 1900s?) Alexander BBb proto-163
1976 Sonora (B&S 101) 4-rotor BBb
1964 Conn 20J/21J BBb (one body, both bells)
~1904 York 3P BBb Helicon
Old Alex Comp.F, in shop
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Mark
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
#3 Mouthpieces don't bounce.bloke wrote:#1. Remember to bring your mouthpiece.
#2. Do not forget rule #1.
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Heavy_Metal
- 5 valves

- Posts: 1734
- Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2012 10:42 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD, USA
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
#4- Don't drop a heavy-walled mouthpiece on your toe!Mark wrote:#3 Mouthpieces don't bounce.bloke wrote:#1. Remember to bring your mouthpiece.
#2. Do not forget rule #1.
Principal tuba, Bel Air Community Band
Old (early 1900s?) Alexander BBb proto-163
1976 Sonora (B&S 101) 4-rotor BBb
1964 Conn 20J/21J BBb (one body, both bells)
~1904 York 3P BBb Helicon
Old Alex Comp.F, in shop
Old (early 1900s?) Alexander BBb proto-163
1976 Sonora (B&S 101) 4-rotor BBb
1964 Conn 20J/21J BBb (one body, both bells)
~1904 York 3P BBb Helicon
Old Alex Comp.F, in shop
- Donn
- 6 valves

- Posts: 5977
- Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:58 pm
- Location: Seattle, ☯
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
Brass mouthpieces don't bounce very well, anyway, but polycarbonate mouthpieces bounce a lot better.Mark wrote: #3 Mouthpieces don't bounce.
Another take on the funnel vs. bowl thing that I read somewhere - funnel vs. bowl results vary according to Wilk/Elliott embouchure type. Which does sort of make sense, if you suppose that air stream directional focus varies accordingly, but that's just my elaboration on the proposition.
- imperialbari
- 6 valves

- Posts: 7461
- Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 3:47 am
Re: Mouthpiece rules of thumb
Check!Mark wrote:Mouthpieces don't bounce.