What does Wilfried Brandstötter use to hold his tuba?

capt_tuba · Post by **capt_tuba** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 7:05 am

I am interested in getting a better rig for when I stand and play and I was wondering if anyone knows what Wilfried uses when he plays. Thanks.

pgym · Post by **pgym** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:04 am

I bet he uses .... his HANDS.

http://members.aon.at/tubtub.at/page_4_1.html" target="_blank

capt_tuba · Post by **capt_tuba** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 8:14 am

Thanks. I will email them.

LJLovegren · Post by **LJLovegren** » Thu Jul 25, 2013 10:18 am

It's a tubabelt.

Here's the link:
http://members.aon.at/tubtub.at/page_4_1.html

They also make an accordion belt.

Walter Webb · Post by **Walter Webb** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 12:45 pm

After looking at the TubaBelt, I am thinking about making my own. It's a stout leather belt with a soft lining on the inside, which is rather conventional. The buckle has a curved hook that appears to be about 3/4" wide, which is probably made of thick brass (plating options available). My Alexander 163 has a nice ring on the bottom bow, at belly button level, that is probably stainless steel (non-magnetic) like the rest of the fittings (thumb ring, bow guard, paddles, joints, etc).

I am looking at strong belts at the thrift store, where I saw these:
1. a really strong weightlifting belt like the old-school leather ones here
https://www.google.com/search?q=weight+ ... 04&bih=847" target="_blank
2. a 2" wide poly tow strap material. Either one of these would certainly be strong enough!

Regarding the belt hook- One could use carbon steel, which is easier to work with, and make a rectangular plate with a hook (rolled/tapped over a rounded anvil) with an identical backing plate on the other side of the belt to which it is riveted. Or, use a short strap with highly rated plastic hardware that loops the belt and is double-sewn.

Any ideas?

Walter

TheHatTuba · Post by **TheHatTuba** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 1:15 pm

Here's a cheap tuba belt I made a couple years ago. http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i35 ... 700519.jpg" target="_blank" target="_blank"
The biggest problem is you cannot wear it like a normal belt, as it sits much too low (needs to be tied around the midsection). Simple though, just a Wal-mart belt, masonry hook, and a couple male/female screws to hold it in place.

bort · Post by **bort** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 1:19 pm

Walter Webb wrote:...anvil...

For me, once the word "anvil" comes out, it's just worth it to buy the WilliBelt pre-made.

Walter Webb · Post by **Walter Webb** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:49 pm

Hey HatTuba, that's just perfect. Exactly what I had in mind. I shall investigate masonry hooks. And Mr. Bort, I advise you to never place your tuba on any kind of anvil!

Z-Tuba Dude · Post by **Z-Tuba Dude** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 6:11 pm

Anyone know the cost of the "official" belt?

sidenius · Post by **sidenius** » Fri Jul 26, 2013 6:52 pm

I've recently checked the price in Austria.
It's really, really expensive!!!
For the belt alone he charges 180 Euros. In addition to that the brassbandol (as it is called on the website) to strap around the main bow if your tuba does'nt have a ring, costs 50 Euros. The shipment costs in Europe is 15 Euros.

So - it all runs up

I've decided to find me a cheap or used climbing harness and simply cut off everything but the hip belt itself. If it can hold a man with a pull from the top, it can easily hold the weight of a tuba the other way.
Just need to find some kind of hook to mount on the hip belt.
A possibility could be to simply cut open an alu carbine, which is used for climbing too

TheHatTuba · Post by **TheHatTuba** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:20 am

Walter Webb wrote:Hey HatTuba, that's just perfect. Exactly what I had in mind. I shall investigate masonry hooks. And Mr. Bort, I advise you to never place your tuba on any kind of anvil!

Walter,
The masonry hook worked out very well as it matches up perfectly with the metal rings on the belt I used. Just bring the hanger with you into the store and find one that matches up with the holes in the hanger and secure them with some short (1/4", 3/8", can't remember) binding posts.

Dan Schultz · Post by **Dan Schultz** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:52 pm

KiltieTuba wrote:
Walter Webb wrote:... My Alexander 163 has a nice ring on the bottom bow, at belly button level, that is probably stainless steel (non-magnetic) like the rest of the fittings (thumb ring, bow guard, paddles, joints, etc). ...
Walter
I believe you're referring to nickel silver, not stainless steel...

Ian... not meaning to get into a metalurgy discussion. But... those two terms are roughly the same thing.

Dan Schultz · Post by **Dan Schultz** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 9:57 pm

I've taken a look into making a belt like this but I don't feel it would work for me as well as the Meinl harness did. The belt in question hangs on the hips and unless it's fitted rather uncomfortably... might tend to 'ride down' over a period of extended playing (five hours) as I do during Volksfest.

Also... Wilfried does not have to worry about things like page turns.

By-the-way... I no longer need a harness, strap, or other devices to hold a tuba as I only use a helicon or sousa for stand-up gigs these days.

pgym · Post by **pgym** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:14 pm

TubaTinker wrote:
KiltieTuba wrote:
Walter Webb wrote:... My Alexander 163 has a nice ring on the bottom bow, at belly button level, that is probably stainless steel (non-magnetic) like the rest of the fittings (thumb ring, bow guard, paddles, joints, etc). ...
Walter
I believe you're referring to nickel silver, not stainless steel...
Ian... not meaning to get into a metalurgy discussion. But... those two terms are roughly the same thing.

Really? Most reference resources classify nickel silver as a non-ferrous metal, and stainless steel as ferrous.

Dan Schultz · Post by **Dan Schultz** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:31 pm

pgym wrote:...

Really? Most reference resources classify nickel silver as a non-ferrous metal, and stainless steel as ferrous.

I knew there would be an argument just waiting in the wings. I should have qualified that to say "nickel silver is not silver at all but is an alloy similar to SURGICAL stainless steel inasmuch as the nickel content is approximately the same".

Surgical stainless steel IS non-ferrous.

Better?

pgym · Post by **pgym** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:52 am

TubaTinker wrote:
Some Surgical stainless steel alloys are classified as non-ferrous.

FTFY

Dan Schultz · Post by **Dan Schultz** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 7:26 pm

pgym wrote:
TubaTinker wrote:
Some Surgical stainless steel alloys are classified as non-ferrous.
FTFY

Thanks!

Rotaryclub · Post by **Rotaryclub** » Sun Jul 28, 2013 10:12 pm

Consider this free alternative:

I play (with quintet) almost exclusively standing, and have for ten years used a strap worn around one shoulder and around a piece of tubing near the bottom of the horn. I comes from one of those extra-large duffle bags-the end to end strap that you never use. It's adjustable, holds the weight on your back/shoulder, and the horn feels stable even when using one hand to hold. There's no welding parts to your tuba, and it was absolutely free.

zangerzzz · Post by **zangerzzz** » Wed Jul 31, 2013 7:57 pm

Thanks Hat Tuba.

I assembled my belt today using a Dewalt tool belt $25

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P3 ... UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank" target="_blank

Heavy duty suspenders $10

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004 ... UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank" target="_blank

The Masonry hook you reccomended $2

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A3F ... UTF8&psc=1" target="_blank" target="_blank

Works Great!

TubeNet

What does Wilfried Brandstötter use to hold his tuba?

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