Dependant 5th valves?

[tubeast]

With concert band in mind, a suitable BBb Tuba is BIG, has a 5th valve, preferrably INdependent with long full step.
There´s just been a too much joy in my conductor´s expression when B naturals (2-3-5), low Es (ditto) and Ebs sound in tune, and parts are taken down an octave with ease, for me to go for anything different. He´s a retired pro Tubist, so he DOES appreciate the difference, fortunately.

My lowest Cs (1-3-4-5 + slide pull) and lowest B naturals (all 5 valves + slide pull) are being called upon quite frequently.
Having the above mentioned setup faciliates making stick wavers happy without pretending to play a 4-valved slide trombone, or using false tones (no, not "privileged" ones in my opinion) that sound like coming from a garden hose.

Hans

[oedipoes]

I'm thinking that a BBb tuba with #1 slide that can be pulled out for Eb (such as a Holton 345) doesn't really need a 5th valve.

I agree for most orchestra literature.
For band/brassband, fast and low passages, I need a 4 valve compensating system or a 5th valve.
My opinion...

[Jay Bertolet]

I confess I don't understand what all the confusion is about. Cerveny parts are easy (although time consuming) to acquire. Why not just buy a 1st valve assembly with some extra slide crooks and inner/outer slide tubing plus an extra leadpipe. You can then pull the original leadpipe off, cut the 5th valve into the new leadpipe and install it as it normally would be and see what you have. If the horn works, great. If not, remove the new parts and reinstall your old leadpipe to restore exactly what you had. No risk.

I did this exact operation on the 601 CC that I used to own. The horn played no differently with the 5th valve than before. I did the same operation with a 641 Eb tuba that I still own. It also plays no differently with the 5th valve added. To me, this operation is a no brainer. It might be the easiest horn to add a 5th valve to that I know of. In my case, it even improved both my horns because I opted for the nickel silver leadpipes which are more durable. Enjoy!

[Allover]

I have on my Mira the 51234 valve setup, with the valves slanted in a Marzan style.
Therefor the leadpipe is short, maybe 2/3 of the 186?
It can also be delivered as a 4 Valve configuration, then the leadpipe is equally longer, going directly into the 1.Valve.
When I ordered this I wanted the 5 Valve version, I mostly play alone, but is "allover" helping other bands missing a tuba..
I'v never been comfortable with the "false notes", and avoided these as often as I could, missing out of the depth often necessary in some music.
Now I didn't hesitate at all dropping the hammer. Still haven't got the hang of pulling
the first. Don't have the ears to tell me I need it.
Maybe they will tune in if I start?
Get Your 5th valve, friend.

[southtubist]

I have a dependent 5th on my F tuba. I've never had any comments about my low range being inadequate... As long as you can manipulate the 2nd valve slide, you won't need an independent 5th valve. I have a nice kicker on my 2nd slide. I absolutely love my F tuba- especially in the low range. I've never used a 5+2+3 combination on any tuba I've played.

Heck, my Alex has a 2+3 independent 5th valve. I don't remember what it is like to play with an independent flat whole step fifth valve. That was years ago...