trad jazz in New Orleans - trip report

[sloan]

I just returned from 4 days in New Orleans, with wife (flute player) and son (16yo, trombone et al. player).

As a warm-up, we did the traditional tourist stuff - including a ride on the Natchez. We did the mid-day cruise and I was slightly disappointed to see a much smaller group (a mere threesome) than I've heard in the past. It seems that the Dukes of Dixieland only do the dinner cruises these days.
We still walked away with 2 CD's, recorded by personnel with little obvious overlap with the pickup trio we had just heard.

[food seems to work the same way - I was used to walking in to K Paul's place for lunch, but found it only open for dinner...and booked solid ("we accept reservations 1 month in advance")

Then, we went looking for something more substantial. Everyone recommends Snug Harbor, and Ellis Marsalis was listed on the bill - but it, too, was booked solid. [BTW - the food there is acceptable, and was within walking distance of our rather funky B&B on N Rampart about 10 blocks from the French Quarter]. They recommended the Palm Court in the French Quarter as a good spot for a party interested in trad jazz and including a 16yo (lots of signs around town announcing a 21yo age limit). Alas, they were booked solid when we called.

They were also booked when we showed up at 7:30p.m. the next night (music starts at 8:00) - but our charming hostess weighed her responsibilities towards the people who had not yet showed for their 7:15 reservations against the immediate benefits of squeezing us in...and we got a decent table (off to the side, which comsideratly muted the trombone player/leader, to my son's dismay) and had a great time. Good music, good food...bring money. I think we spent about $200 (dinner for 3, bottle of wine, 3x$5 music cover charges, not to mention the bread pudding for dessert...) Oh yeah...add in another CD, with considerable overlap in personnel both with the 6 we heard at the Palm Court AND with the CD we bought on the Natchez!

For our third stab at the music scene, we had another meal in Fauborg/Marigny and walked into Donnas (St Ann and N Rampart - just across the street from the main entrance to Armstrong Park at the far northern border of the French Quarter - well away from anything "touristy"). Monday at Donnas is, indeed, "not to be missed". $10 cover, no minimum (well, no one mentioned one - there's a sign outside that says $5 cover and 2 drink min - we covered a 2 drink minimum anyway: my Abita's were just right! - A Turbodog and an Amber) . In exchange for the $10 each, we were handed 3 CD's (two titles, so we have one dupe). Kick *** music, featuring an 18yo trumpeter named Troy Andrews(?)[watch for this kid!]. We thought the place was close to full when we walked in at 9:15 (music starts at 9:30) but folk kept streaming in until the middle of the second set. By the third set, guests started rotating onto the stage for a tune or three. Some were excellent. Some were...not quite excellent. Most interesting was a trio of high school kids from Pittsburgh who got up and played a very earnest pair of vanilla numbers (with a little help from the house front-liners - one at a time).

Between the 2nd and 3rd sets, the FREE Red Beans & Rice + BBQ chicken were set out and everyone chowed down. Most of the college-age spectators disappeared shortly after that. At the price, it was a bargain.

Alas, one of the members of our party is a morning person, and we had to trundle on home near the end of the 3rd set. Bob French (percussion/leader) commented on our exit and pointed out that we were leaving "too soon" - I'm sure he was right, but it had already been a long day.

For those blokes who might be wary of the neighborhood, I note that a cab appeared instantly as we went out the door. On the other hand, I'll agree that crossing to the other side of N Rampart would have been a bit Ex-TREME.

So...I still recommend the Natchez harbor tour - but if you go during the day do it for the pleasant view of the harbor and the sight-seeing. The music is acceptable, but if you really like that style you'll be happier with the dinner jazz cruise. I've never eaten the food on the Natchez, but my suspiscion is that it's not worth the premium. Even Donna's BBQ is a better deal (it's tough to beat FREE).

For better food AND excellent trad jazz in a safe and tourist-friendly atmosphere, phone at least 1 week in advance and drop a bundle at the Palm Court. See if you can get a table up front (between the bar and the band) if you want to listen,to the inner voices - the piano, bass, and woodwind are miked, but not the cornet nor the trombone.

Snug Harbor has an excellent lineup, but the listening room is a long narrow bar with not a lot of room, and DEFINITELY requires a reservation well in advance - at least Donna's had tables for (most of) the patrons.

For pure music, DO NOT MISS Monday night at Donna's. Take cabs in and out if you have problems with urban streets. Actually, if you are staying in a turista hotel, the walk back would be fairly safe once you got 4 blocks into the heart of tourist land (but perhaps longer than most folk would like at 2a.m.) I had a cab company phone number programmed into my cell, but didn't need it

Now...about that stack of CDs...

[sloan]

Funky Butt, and Cafe Brasil, will have to wait for a less "family oriented" trip!

[tofu]

so, how many weeks has it been?

Is there nothing else you could be doing other than digging up 9 year old threads? His 16 year old is 25 now and probably lives at the Funky Butt!

Why don't you ask Mrs. Bloke if she has something you could be doing

[David Richoux]

so, how many weeks has it been?

Is there nothing else you could be doing other than digging up 9 year old threads? His 16 year old is 25 now and probably lives at the Funky Butt!

Why don't you ask Mrs. Bloke if she has something you could be doing

Donna's has been closed for 3 years now - it was the FQ "hot brass" hangout for several decades!

Cafe Brazil has also been closed for a while...

These days, the Frenchmen Street clubs like "Spotted Cat" are where the best old style New Orleans jazz can be heard. During French Quarter and Jazz Fests it can get quite crazy along Frenchmen, but it is worth it.

Faubourg Marigny and Bywater areas have gotten a bit safer (and a bit more "upscale") in the last few years, but caution is still advised in all of New Orleans - you never know!

[sloan]

so, how many weeks has it been?

Is there nothing else you could be doing other than digging up 9 year old threads? His 16 year old is 25 now and probably lives at the Funky Butt!

No, he's in Oakland becoming a composer. While I wasn't along for those trips, I suspect that the Funky Butt has been visited and processed...

If you like the train from BHM, it's possible to have a good time in NOLA without going to the trouble of getting a hotel room. A very easy day (and night) trip.

Or, you could hole up in the woods outside Memphis and wait for the good times to come to you.

[tofu]

It's truly a shame to hear about Donna's and the Funky Butt closing. It's been a while since I've last been down there. Been thinking of going down this summer to visit a friend who moved backed down after her house was finally rebuilt after being demolished by Katrina.

[tubajoe]

Love to read these posts from 9 years ago and read about you raving about Troy Andrews, and saying "watch for this kid"... that's so prophetic, he's become a total rockstar! One of my favs...