Stuck tuning slide

SplatterTone · Post by **SplatterTone** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 2:59 pm

Sure fire way to do it; this never fails:
1. Suspend instrument high above the floor -- concrete floor is best.
2. Take an extremely expensive, breakable item and suspend it from the slide in such a way that if the slide comes out, the item will fall to the floor and break.

The slide will come right out.

TubaRay · Post by **TubaRay** » Wed Dec 21, 2005 9:02 pm

SplatterTone wrote:Sure fire way to do it; this never fails:
1. Suspend instrument high above the floor -- concrete floor is best.
2. Take an extremely expensive, breakable item and suspend it from the slide in such a way that if the slide comes out, the item will fall to the floor and break.

The slide will come right out.

I don't know if you are statiscally correct or not. However, from my experience, you are absolutely correct.

prototypedenNIS · Post by **prototypedenNIS** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 1:41 pm

batboy, there are a set of tools that you can use... I'll check and see if I can find them in the ferree's catalog when I have time. They are shaped like pliers except instead of jagged teeth, they have round sections that wrap around a slide, allowing you to apply force directly on the ferrule.

You then tap on the plier.
You may find that easier.

windshieldbug · Post by **windshieldbug** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 1:47 pm

Besides, the slide isn't stuck... the tuba is!

tubamirum · Post by **tubamirum** » Sat Dec 24, 2005 9:03 am

I keep seeing references to "hot water" being bad for lacquer. I wish it were as it would make stripping a horn a much simpler job. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to strip lacquer with hot water particularly that bLank blank King stuff.

windshieldbug · Post by **windshieldbug** » Sat Dec 24, 2005 10:52 am

bloke wrote:sounds like a few too many "hits". Again, I use my bare hands (as nothing tears up instruments more efficiently than "tools"). I also often first use a careful sideways twisting motion (to break the tubes free in a slightly rotational motion) rather than an outward yanking motion. Frankly (not any sort of brag at all) most people's fingers, hands, and wrists are not strong enough to execute a lot of routine brass repair operations. I don't have well-developed biceps or anything like that...and I'm generally tragically out of shape, but I could probably squeeze water out of steel with my hands.

What would you recommend for a third valve slide that had a dent in the outer/inner?

cheburashka · Post by **cheburashka** » Sun Dec 25, 2005 9:31 pm

tubamirum wrote:

I keep seeing references to "hot water" being bad for lacquer. I wish it were as it would make stripping a horn a much simpler job. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to strip lacquer with hot water particularly that bLank blank King stuff.

I was stripping an Olds trombone, and chemical strippers weren't working at all. I ended up suspending the bell in a big container of boiling water and boiling it for twenty minutes. It did get rid of the lacquer, and it added new meaning to the term "soup bone."

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