put a towel on the bottom of the tub, not that bottom of the tuba
and I spelled something wrong.
sorry,
no edit button.
Bill

Yup. It's the house of the electrician that burns down!bloke wrote:as often as we repairnerds need to pay a tuition payment, or want to by some new hunting/fishing/video/fill-in-the-blank gear.tubanerd wrote:On the subject, any recommendations how how often a tuba should be chem-cleaned?
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bloke "who last chemically-cleaned his own instruments...uh...uhh..."

How much attention your horn really needs will depend strictly on how much you play, your body chemistry, and how clean the air you induce into the horn is. I agree with Andy in that an annual trip to the repair shop for for a lube, and inspection is not a bad idea. Find a repairman you can trust and leave the chem-cleaning interval up to him. I don't chem-clean every time a horn comes to the shop... mainly because it costs money and I don't beleive in using harsh cleaners just for the heck of it. As I said.... your mileage will vary depending on the conditions.carrie wrote:I'm quoting this because I wonder the same thing. I've got a rotary horn that's about 13 or 14 years old. I've probably given it a "bath" (the liquid soap/water treatment) just a handful of times over the years, and never had it professionally cleaned. I'm thinking it's probably about time for it.TubaSteve wrote:While we are on the subject of cleaning horns, what do you guys do with your rotary horns. I have been afraid to wash stuff into the rotarys and have had some folks say to just leave them alone. What should someone expect to pay for a chemical bath, and is the horn at risk for damage by having it done? Sorry to ask what should be such basic questions, but none of my playing partners have ever had their horns cleaned. Some of them are over 20 years old now.
Steve

A good site for how to clean your instrument is at http://www.uni.edu/drfun/FunderburkIndex.htmlTubadork wrote:Just to be painfully clear an obvious, you do have to take out the valves and slides before putting it into the water. It would also be a good idea to put a towel or some of that grippy stuff for kitchen drawers on the bottom of the tuba, so that your horn doesn't get scratched. For it to be real effective, use a low brass snake.sbivens wrote:I'll be getting my tuba chem-cleaned in the next few weeks, but until then...
Is it okay just to sit my tuba in the bath for a few hours? I've heard it is, but I'm so scared that some minerally-something is gonna creep into my silver lacquer and eat my tuba up.
Is it safe?
Should I use a certain temperature water to start off with, or should I add anything into the water?
Thanks!
Sincerely,
Just a guy who wants to keep his tuba nice
Another option would be to take it outside and run the garden hose through it. The more water pressure the better. But, it's even too cold to do that here in Hotlanta, so I can't imagine that it would be warm enought where you are either.
Have fun and if somethign really gross comes out of your horn, take a picture and post it here for us.
Bill


As I mentioned in a previous post... I am not an advocate to chem-cleaning any more than necessary. There is no reason to use harsh chemistry on brass unless there are mineral deposits that cannot be remove with conventional detergents. With chemical cleaning, there is a fine line between removing mineral deposits and removing brass. Most any acid will leach a bit of the copper out of the brass... leaving behind a slight reddish color... which indicates copper without the zinc.Neptune wrote:I wonder if having tubas regularly Chem cleaned is a particular American idea?

You do mean "zinc out of the brass", dontcha, Dan?TubaTinker wrote:Most any acid will leach a bit of the copper out of the brass... leaving behind a slight reddish color... which indicates copper without the zinc.

That is more, or less what I do with my rotary tubas, I just once, or twice a year run soapy water through from the main tuning slide out to the leadpipe, brushing the leadpipe with the snake while the water is running through, so any muck comes straight out, rather than going into valves. I then leave overnight with the slides removed for it to dry, before re-lubricating.Chuck(G) wrote:In any case, you're most likely to have lime in the smaller tubes, not in the large ones, so it may do you no good to clean your horn out past the tuning slide.

Yeah... I notice that seconds after I made the post. With the new 'no edit' mode, I'll just have to be more careful!Chuck(G) wrote:You do mean "zinc out of the brass", dontcha, Dan?TubaTinker wrote:Most any acid will leach a bit of the copper out of the brass... leaving behind a slight reddish color... which indicates copper without the zinc.

Well, on the video I found, he says to take the rotors out. The way that Funderburk explains it, is that the valve are the most important part of the process. As he explains it, that's sort of true...Who wants valves that are all crusted over?jaykibs wrote:I'm kind of confused on exactly what to do with rotary valves. The valves shouldn't be taken out during either the snake cleaning or the tub-soak, right? And if this is the case, should you snake out the valves' tubes at all?
Thanks once again to everyone for all this great information!


Unless you really know what you are doing, I would not attempt to take out the rotary valves. Just flush through with water with a mild detergent (no snake).jaykibs wrote:I'm kind of confused on exactly what to do with rotary valves. The valves shouldn't be taken out during either the snake cleaning or the tub-soak, right? And if this is the case, should you snake out the valves' tubes at all?