6/4 Bat's

[jeopardymaster]

We have missed a minor point in the analysis, but one worth addressing. Our poster also has asked for some input regarding the ergonomics of playing a big horn. This has been a point of major concern for me in trying out tubas. Although I am a big person, and a heavy instrument is not so big a problem, nonetheless the comfort experience playing these big horns varies quite a bit from model to model. A well-made instrument stand is a fine equalizer, and a terrific investment, in my opinion. Whatever horn you settle on, I'd recommend you pay the extra $100 or so for a good stand.

[Rick Denney]

We have missed a minor point in the analysis, but one worth addressing. Our poster also has asked for some input regarding the ergonomics of playing a big horn. This has been a point of major concern for me in trying out tubas. Although I am a big person, and a heavy instrument is not so big a problem, nonetheless the comfort experience playing these big horns varies quite a bit from model to model. A well-made instrument stand is a fine equalizer, and a terrific investment, in my opinion. Whatever horn you settle on, I'd recommend you pay the extra $100 or so for a good stand.

You make an excellent point and I fully agree. One well-known poster has complained that the traditional yorkophones don't wrap the leadpipe around the bell enough, and the instrument must sit angled away from the player. Of course, it needs to sit that way to bring the valves within reach, too. I can't play my Holton comfortably with the tuba on my lap, because it all has to rest on my right leg and I have to keep it there with considerable tension.

Rotary kaiser tubas are typically designed so that the instrument is parallel to your chest, and therefore can rest fairly equally on both legs. The valves are definitely easier to reach.

Even so, I find that I must use a stand for all contrabass tubas, even my light Miraphone 186. It's not a matter of strength, but a matter of tension. Gene Pokorny advocates using a stand primarily to relieve the muscular tension required to hold the instrument up. When I use a stand, I don't find that any of my tubas present ergonomic problems related to size. Valve position is another matter, but most BATs have a vertical valve arrangement that works well enough.

Rick "who always uses a stand" Denney

[pierso20]

Yes, I take lessons from a teacher. I'm enrolled at Michigan State and take from Phil Sinder...he know's his tuba pretty well i think.

Anyway, the big thing for me is..I mean, dont get me wrong, I LOVE the horn I play now. And I use the MF3 on it, which is quite nice. The only real thing I was looking into finding out was comparisons of this horn to others. That is, my Horn is "big" and produces big sound, though its not literally big. It is mostly a comfort thing and I find this horn not as comfortable as others. I wish to "eventually" find a horn that puts out the sound that I like, and what i like is similar to the 1290 I have now...but a horn that is more...me friendly.

Anyway, I'm getting an F horn right now...and after learning that, I will THEN upgrade my CC horn. But I figure, start now so I get ahead.

[pierso20]

yeah, the 1291 are compact, but not the 1290 which I own...haha. The 1291 has a big sound, but it sucks up more air than most horn...I found it difficult to "figure out".

Basically, they took the 1290 and made it shorter and a tighter wrap...something about the 1291 "replacement" just doesn't do it for me. Plus, my 1290 had some work done on it.... it's good........vedy vedy good.

[Steve Inman]

The above post gets my vote for the "Most informative post of the week" award.

Thanks, "E"!

Cheers,

[Steve Inman]

The new 6/4 MW "Baer" is a very good horn, but about double your price. Closer to your max price, but not a "BAT" is the Thor -- a very good horn as well, but questionably a 5/4 (maybe?). A very powerful 4/4 perhaps?

Cheers,