Double Bell Euphonium

[tokuno]

. . . and traded it for a 5v Yamaha 321.
J.c.S.

A YEP-321, i.e. euphonium?
Intrigued. What's the 5th valve do, and where's it wired in - what's the flow?

I have a suspicion that a used YEP-321s could be triggered for a total cost well under $2k, and might out-compete my Besson 967 for playability.

[J.c. Sherman]

There was a period of time when the YEP-321 Euph was offered with an optional 5th valve, thich was located on a removable 4th valve slide. You could either have it on, or reduce the weight and put in the normal tuning slide. It was operated by the left thumb.

They were tuned to a flat whole step, or a really nice low E or B with 4 & 5. Mine was retuned to a flat whole step. Proble I had was that the thing weighed so much, it kept falling out. So I moved it to a permanent location on the 4th tubing, and it's wonderful (pictures on request).

I heard that Yamaha stopped offering the 5th because people were not purchasing their 600 series euphs since the 321 was cheeper and had a full range (plus, it rocked!) with the 5th valve.

J.c.S>

[J.c. Sherman]

JC, have you considered making the 5th valve an INdependent valve (probably after teh piston valves)?

Indeed I did.

But the original valve and it's knuckles were best set up to put where I did, roughly in the open space of the 4th valve tubing. Also, the way the main tubing comes out forward rapidly after the valve section, makes a main pipe addition somewhat problematic. I could do it, but I'm not unhappy with the way it is now. Tuning is really quite good as it is...

J.c.S.

[tokuno]

Tuning is really quite good as it is...
J.c.S.

Do you think a kicker on the main tuning slide would provide sufficient throw for the Eb down to B#, and also take care of the sharp 6th partial?
I'm thinking it would be easier and cheaper for me to buy used and add a trigger, as opposed to locating a 5th valve-equipped 4th slide and also paying for a relocation job off the slide . . .

[druby]

Do you think a kicker on the main tuning slide would provide sufficient throw for the Eb down to B#, and also take care of the sharp 6th partial?

I have a 4V Conn 24I Connstellation that has a main slide kicker. With all 4 valves down and the kicker out ALL of the way, I can just get C-natural in tune. I play Db with 1-3-4 and little kicker and play the rest using standard fingering with a little or no kicker. There is no way to get the low Cb above pedal Bb in tune. To play a Cb, I use 1-2-3-4, kicker, and lip down as much as I can. Even then it still is 20+ cents sharp. The kickers only add 3-4 inches of total tubing (1.5" to 2" on each side of the main slide).

On my Conn (and the YEP321's) the 6th partial (Eb, E, F) is not nearly as sharp as it is on most compensating horns. Thus if sharp at all, the kicker does work nicely. Where the kicker works best is C and Cb above low Bb (not pedal Bb). These notes can be played either 1-3 and 1-2-3 with a bit of kicker, or 4 and 2-4 respectively w/o kicker.

I think you would just have to add too much tubing to get Cb (1-2-3-4) and C-nat (1-3-4) using just kicker. I really don't think you could kick the main slide on a 4V YEP-321 enough to pull the Cb (1-2-3-4) into tune. Then again, maybe I'm wrong.

Doug

[andrew the tuba player]

heres another good video of a Conn DB Euphonium. Kind of interesting if you don't know how they work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vK5VDhs_Rrk" target="_blank

[J.c. Sherman]

Probably...

I use a DEG tuba stand to play mine (yes, the DEG sucks, but I'm poor...), and I palm the 1st valve slide at times (it's really free on mine). But if I'm standing, I don't need the slide. But it's nice on some chords, and on low Db...

Never considered the main slide kicker - I have enough going on
and the 5th valve doesn't do a thing for the Ebs except the low and pedal tones...

J.c.S.

[J.c. Sherman]

I played a restored Connstellation ocne and was really surprised at how much teh main kicker gave- I think it put the horn into A. And it had a somewhat usable 4th valve slide. The horn still played pretty badly, but at least it could hint at the low range.

Must've been the restoration - these usually are stunningly good horns. They do have an unusual receiver size, and they are not as "open" per se as a Hirshbrunner, but they are usually rock-solid instruments.

Oh, and on the 321s with the long 3rd, you can re-tune it to a 2-step slide, which makes low C easier to get. But you can get it with just the pulled 1 and a little lip...

J.c.S.

[fstanek]

Hello. I have a York Master DB Euphonium. It was made by Schrieber in Germany circa 1964. I bought it new in 1965. It has a 3 & 1 valve configuration. I am currently considering having a 5th valve added to it, 3 & 2. Is this a practical idea and will the horn still sound the way it does now? Also, if this is done, can it be changed to a compensating horn at the same time? Thanks

[David Richoux]

Another great DB Euph Trio feature from Cell Block 7: Bugler's Holiday

I have a few of these beasts as well - not much use for them except to be cool. Heavy on parade duty (I use an Alto Horn much more often.)

[Z-Tuba Dude]

I'll show you mine if you'll show me yours!

...a YORK from somewhere between 1897-1904

[Art Hovey]

Can anyone tell me what brand this one is? Some repair guy rubbed the insignia off the bell.

[J.c. Sherman]

Looks like an old Conn.

[Dan Schultz]

Can anyone tell me what brand this one is? Some repair guy rubbed the insignia off the bell.

Is this the same horn?

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