BLOKEPIECE SHOOTOUT CONTINUES!!!
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iiipopes
- Utility Infielder
- Posts: 8581
- Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:10 am
Re: BLOKEPIECE SHOOTOUT CONTINUES!!!
Bloke sent me an extender for my Imperial, and it is just right to open up the mouthpiece for a little more depth and smoothness. Thanks!
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K
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pwhitaker
- 3 valves
- Posts: 449
- Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:58 pm
- Location: Springvale, Maine
Re: BLOKEPIECE SHOOTOUT CONTINUES!!!
I'm using the Grand Orchestral cup with the new extra large bore shank and the rim from the Arthur Heller custom mouthpiece I bought a few years ago. This rim is about 8mm deeper than the Blokey rims and has a 34.5mm inner diameter. This works for me in all my horns - 6/4 Holton, 3/4 Miraphone Eb and 4/4 King souzy.
MISERICORDE, n.
A dagger which in mediaeval warfare was used by the foot soldier to remind an unhorsed knight that he was mortal.
- Devil's Dictionary - Ambrose Bierce
A dagger which in mediaeval warfare was used by the foot soldier to remind an unhorsed knight that he was mortal.
- Devil's Dictionary - Ambrose Bierce
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iiipopes
- Utility Infielder
- Posts: 8581
- Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:10 am
Re: BLOKEPIECE SHOOTOUT CONTINUES!!!
EDIT TO ABOVE POST ABOUT EXTENDER
First, this may seem like a digression, but give me a paragraph, and I will bring it around.
How many of you have fit a carburetor to a high-performance engine? If you have, then you know the spacer between the carburetor and the manifold is critical: too little depth, and you don't get the full advantage of the air/fuel velocity to develop the most horsepower. Too much depth, and you lose throttle response.
Likewise on a tuba: the mouthpiece is the carburetor; the extender is the spacer into the manifold (throat & backbore). Yes, it is a good analogy, because a mouthpiece and a carburetor work the same way: Bernoulli's principle.
The blokepiece cup extender is the same way. On my Imperial, I was finding I was losing a little response. So, on bloke's recommendation, I took a piece of sandpaper, a smooth work surface, and sanded down the extender from .160" to .080" after experimenting with screwing on the rim to different depths to determine what, for me, was the best balance between response and tonal depth.
So, I encourage everyone who thinks their mouthpiece is close, but lacks just that little something, to experiment with the extender, and to experiment without it and screw down the mouthpiece to different depths to determine your best personal balance, then sand down an extender accordingly. Use a medium grit paper, moderate finger pressure, and rotate and check frequently with a micrometer to make sure you are sanding evenly.
Thanks again to bloke for a great mouthpiece.
First, this may seem like a digression, but give me a paragraph, and I will bring it around.
How many of you have fit a carburetor to a high-performance engine? If you have, then you know the spacer between the carburetor and the manifold is critical: too little depth, and you don't get the full advantage of the air/fuel velocity to develop the most horsepower. Too much depth, and you lose throttle response.
Likewise on a tuba: the mouthpiece is the carburetor; the extender is the spacer into the manifold (throat & backbore). Yes, it is a good analogy, because a mouthpiece and a carburetor work the same way: Bernoulli's principle.
The blokepiece cup extender is the same way. On my Imperial, I was finding I was losing a little response. So, on bloke's recommendation, I took a piece of sandpaper, a smooth work surface, and sanded down the extender from .160" to .080" after experimenting with screwing on the rim to different depths to determine what, for me, was the best balance between response and tonal depth.
So, I encourage everyone who thinks their mouthpiece is close, but lacks just that little something, to experiment with the extender, and to experiment without it and screw down the mouthpiece to different depths to determine your best personal balance, then sand down an extender accordingly. Use a medium grit paper, moderate finger pressure, and rotate and check frequently with a micrometer to make sure you are sanding evenly.
Thanks again to bloke for a great mouthpiece.
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K