I have seen other threads (along the lines of how do you un-stick a slide) which mentioned as a side issue that you shouldn't use vegetable lubricants because they go tacky, then eventually set like paint, and you shouldn't use animal lubricants because they either rot and stink, or harden like glue - basically, stay with petroleum based lubricants or artificial paraffins.
I guess the question is, can anyone predict what would happen if you lube up an instrument with this new stuff, then put it away in the store-room for a year ?
bio oil
- MikeW
- 3 valves

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Re: bio oil
Imperial Eb Kellyberg
dilettante & gigless wannabe
dilettante & gigless wannabe
- Donn
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Re: bio oil
Two points about your question: 1. only need to expose it to oxygen, whether stored or not, and 2. you would get a more useful prediction from someone who really knows something about this stuff, as opposed to "anyone." Obviously I have an opinion myself, but I'm more in the "anyone" category.MikeW wrote: I guess the question is, can anyone predict what would happen if you lube up an instrument with this new stuff, then put it away in the store-room for a year ?
I did look up their web site, and among the tips: "It is recommended that you clean your instrument as you normally would every two weeks or so to prevent build-up."
So I guess the question is, how do we normally clean our instruments every two weeks? Do we happen to use solvents or detergents of any kind while doing this, that would effectively remove old vegetable oil? (I have to ask, because frankly I don't clean my instrument every two weeks, but I knew anyway that I am not normal.)
(Hot lye solution will certainly do it, in case anyone's looking for a vegetable oil remover.)
- JCalkin
- pro musician

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Re: bio oil
Bloke,
I received a bottle from my wife who got some at TMEA thinking it would be neat to try.
I hate it.
Like you, I found the action to be quite slow, when compared to my make-it-yourself lamp oil plus 3-in-1. Also, I found that it gets gummy and leaves a build-up over time, requiring more frequent cleanings.
I'm a fan of the added cleaning benefit petroleum based oils give (since they act as a fairly good solvent). I'd rather clean LESS, not MORE.
The bottle is now a couple of years old and I just gave it the sniff test, and (yup) it's starting to smell rancid.
I received a bottle from my wife who got some at TMEA thinking it would be neat to try.
I hate it.
Like you, I found the action to be quite slow, when compared to my make-it-yourself lamp oil plus 3-in-1. Also, I found that it gets gummy and leaves a build-up over time, requiring more frequent cleanings.
I'm a fan of the added cleaning benefit petroleum based oils give (since they act as a fairly good solvent). I'd rather clean LESS, not MORE.
The bottle is now a couple of years old and I just gave it the sniff test, and (yup) it's starting to smell rancid.
Josh Calkin
Wayne State College
Low Brass/Bands
Wayne State College
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- Dan Schultz
- TubaTinker

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Re: bio oil
+1bloke wrote:' time to flood the instrument with lamp oil and flush out all of this stuff, I guess.
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
- Lectron
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Re: bio oil
+1bloke wrote:' time to flood the instrument with lamp oil and flush out all of this stuff, I guess.
Melton 200 -=- Melton 2141 -=- Cerveny 883 Opera -=- Besson 992 -=- MPCs: 3pcs steel (Sellmansberger/Parker)
- tokuno
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Re: bio oil
a partially-used bottle was included with a B&H baritone I bought along with a strong recommendation from the seller.bloke wrote:Has anyone (besides me) tried this out?
. . . I'm thinking it may be just a bit too viscous for large-surface-area (aka "big valve") tuba pistons. Yeah, I believe I might be observing that my valves may be a wee bit slow with this concoction . . .
. . . bloke "If there is a market, I wouldn't mind stocking/selling it...but I'm not as sure about using it."
Tried it, thought it was a bit sluggish, replaced it with Hetman's. Wouldn't buy it.
- MikeW
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Re: bio oil
1. only need to expose it to oxygen, whether stored or notDonn wrote:Two points about your question: 1. only need to expose it to oxygen, whether stored or not, and 2. you would get a more useful prediction from someone who really knows something about this stuff, as opposed to "anyone." Obviously I have an opinion myself, but I'm more in the "anyone" category.MikeW wrote: I guess the question is, can anyone predict what would happen if you lube up an instrument with this new stuff, then put it away in the store-room for a year ?
Probably true. I mentioned the storeroom because that may be the worst case, with the instrument being set aside and not played for months. If the instrument was played at all, the player would notice when it started to gum up, and (probably) would clean the gum out. I was also remembering someone's war story about a band teacher who oiled all his brass instruments with cooking oil before putting them away for the Summer, and ended up with a bunch of stuck you-name-its.
2. you would get a more useful prediction from someone who really knows something about this stuff
Of course. But this is a chat forum, so I left it open for anyone to join in and share their experience. An expert opinion would obviously be doubly welcome.
For what it's worth, someone mentioned that this stuff is just thinly disguised Canola oil. I tried Canola oil in one of those pump-up spray cans (in the kitchen, not the tuba); I didn't use it much, and it gummed up in less than a month - I guess the commercial stuff stays liquid because the propellant doesn't contain oxygen.
Imperial Eb Kellyberg
dilettante & gigless wannabe
dilettante & gigless wannabe