A clean, soft cotton t-shirt and a thin layer of lemon Pledge furnituer polish is a practical way to prevent airborne oxygen and sulphur from attacking and darkening the silver. I doubt that there is a daily need (maybe weekly) except for obsessive-compulsive players.TubaTuck wrote:Cats:
I'm sure this a subject covered previously but:
I now play (for the first time) a silver plated horn.
Whats the best products/methodology for a daily "wipe-down" to keep the horn looking good?
Is there a preferred polishing cloth that can be used for this purpose?
Any other comments concerning the care and maintenance of this horn is appreciated.
Tuck
Silver Horn Wipe Down?
- Dean E
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Re: Silver Horn Wipe Down?
Dean E
[S]tudy politics and war, that our sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. Our sons ought to study mathematics and philosophy . . . in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry [and] music. . . . John Adams (1780)
[S]tudy politics and war, that our sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. Our sons ought to study mathematics and philosophy . . . in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry [and] music. . . . John Adams (1780)
- threedognate
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- Chuck(G)
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How much your horn will tarnish depends a lot on where you live. If you're in an urban area, live near industrial operations, or hot springs or volcanic activity, your silver horn will tarnish faster because of airborne sulfur. Keeping your horn in its case with some anti-tarnish strips will be better for it than frequent polishing.
Mostly, I need to wipe off slobber marks and fingerprints. Windex and a soft CLEAN cotton cloth works fine.
In general, it's best to leave the store polishes alone until you actually need them. They don't put much silver on horns nowadays and when it's gone, it's gone.
Mostly, I need to wipe off slobber marks and fingerprints. Windex and a soft CLEAN cotton cloth works fine.
In general, it's best to leave the store polishes alone until you actually need them. They don't put much silver on horns nowadays and when it's gone, it's gone.
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XtremeEuph
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- Leland
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I've been using two cloths. One is a plain rag of 100% cotton T-shirt material for dirt & other junk.
The other is a regular silver polishing cloth (you know, the blue cotton with no stitched edging). Right out of the box, it's nearly ineffective, but with a little polishing agent worked in (Wright's cream, in my case) and allowed to dry, it does a pretty darned good job. It's nearly as good as going the whole apply-dry-buff route, yet it can be done while waiting for the rest of the ensemble to finish fixing their problems.

The other is a regular silver polishing cloth (you know, the blue cotton with no stitched edging). Right out of the box, it's nearly ineffective, but with a little polishing agent worked in (Wright's cream, in my case) and allowed to dry, it does a pretty darned good job. It's nearly as good as going the whole apply-dry-buff route, yet it can be done while waiting for the rest of the ensemble to finish fixing their problems.
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Dave Hayami
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Hello,
I use a REAL CHAMOIS from an auto supply store. Just keep it on your lap, or in my case, I hold it in my left hand/over the top bow to move slides. Like Leland, wipe horn down after rehersal or while other sections work out sections.
I only use polish(Wright's) 1 or 2 times a year before major performances.
(If you can find an AMWAY distributor that is understanding that you only want to purchase products not sell, they used to have a great silver polish)
Dave "not meaning to disrespect AMWAY" Hayami
I use a REAL CHAMOIS from an auto supply store. Just keep it on your lap, or in my case, I hold it in my left hand/over the top bow to move slides. Like Leland, wipe horn down after rehersal or while other sections work out sections.
I only use polish(Wright's) 1 or 2 times a year before major performances.
(If you can find an AMWAY distributor that is understanding that you only want to purchase products not sell, they used to have a great silver polish)
Dave "not meaning to disrespect AMWAY" Hayami
- iiipopes
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You mean you wipe your horn down daily? Oh, yeah, I guess if mine cost $4000 or more instead of $400, I'd do it also. I used to treat my dad's trumpet with such attention bordering on spoilage. It just got it ripped off.
OTOH, I could leave my Besson out all night by a lamp post and only be concerned the night custodial crew might mistake it and pitch it, from what it looked like when I got it. Please read my signature.
I have given up on keeping horns looking "new." Now I just make sure they are overall clean, playable and try to anticipate movements and careful habits to keep incidents of stupidity (mine, not others) as far off as possible.
OTOH, I could leave my Besson out all night by a lamp post and only be concerned the night custodial crew might mistake it and pitch it, from what it looked like when I got it. Please read my signature.
I have given up on keeping horns looking "new." Now I just make sure they are overall clean, playable and try to anticipate movements and careful habits to keep incidents of stupidity (mine, not others) as far off as possible.
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K
- Leland
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- iiipopes
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Leland -- yes, I understand and respect your position. In high school we had to be able to reflect light off of our sousaphone bells, so we polished the dickens out of them. There are places it is necessary, there are places it is desireable. Then there is my Besson, which short of spending $XXXX on an overhaul is never going there again. And since it really isn't broke, I'm not going to "fix" it. And there's the Eb I dragged out of the back of the basement of my undergrad school recently, that hadn't seen the light of day in decades, and even I didn't know about it when I was a student. It is in great physical shape, but it is mottled battleship grey instead of silver, and I won't touch the patina with a ten-foot squeegee.
But you know, I do have the occasional daydream of being able to see the reflections of the people around me in a new Rudy 4345 or something similar, and being able to keep it that way.
But you know, I do have the occasional daydream of being able to see the reflections of the people around me in a new Rudy 4345 or something similar, and being able to keep it that way.
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K
- iiipopes
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Well, the best is to make sure you brush your teeth and wash your hands before you play, and empty your slides and wipe the horn down with any lint-free soft cloth made for the purpose. Fact of life: the horn is silver. Second fact of life: in the winter, most of us use or will play places using some sort of gas furnace, and gas is contaminated with sulphur naturally, as is the air of most cities due to all sorts of emissions. Therefore, you will eventually have to deal with tarnish. Go lightly on the polishing so you don't wear through the plating, and let it age with dignity.
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K