Home Sousaphone Repairs
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mTaUrBkA
- 3 valves

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Home Sousaphone Repairs
I start marching band camp tommorrow, and I plan on taking the beat up, fiber glass 20K conn sousa home and do some repairs and cleaning and was hoping to get some advice!
A few years ago, before I got into the high school the bell snapped off about where the flare starts. The best place to describe it is where it seems where the fiberglass ends, and where the plastic starts. The bell is currently duct taped together, but it falls off from time to time. I am going to take a trip to the hardware store tommorrow after the first day of marching band camp to get some sort of epoxy or adhesive to hold it together. Anyone have any idea of what may hold well?
There is also a chip in the bell that almost looks like someone took a bit out of it. Anyone have any ideas on how to fill the chip in?
A few years ago, before I got into the high school the bell snapped off about where the flare starts. The best place to describe it is where it seems where the fiberglass ends, and where the plastic starts. The bell is currently duct taped together, but it falls off from time to time. I am going to take a trip to the hardware store tommorrow after the first day of marching band camp to get some sort of epoxy or adhesive to hold it together. Anyone have any idea of what may hold well?
There is also a chip in the bell that almost looks like someone took a bit out of it. Anyone have any ideas on how to fill the chip in?
- Dan Schultz
- TubaTinker

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I've used epoxies that are formulated for fiberglass to reattached the flare before. Make sure the two surfaces you intend to join are clean and free of residue from the duct tape. Match the two surfaces up and follow the instructions on the epoxy package. Another choice might be to just take the bell to an auto body shop or boat repair shop that does fiberglas repairs.
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker"
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Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
- Bandmaster
- 4 valves

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The epoxy is the way to go for reattaching the bell flare. But like TuBatinker said, clean the tape residue off real good first. Rubbing alcohol can work good for that.
Most large auto parts stores sell small fiberglass repair kits. It should have enough fibergalss cloth and resin to fill in the chip. Also get some sandpaper. Sand the edges of the chip so the resin can bond to it good. Tape a layer of waxpaper across the back side of the chip to support the cloth and resin you will have to insert into the chipped area. File and sand it smooth when it hardens and cover with a little white spraypaint and your done.There is also a chip in the bell that almost looks like someone took a bit out of it. Anyone have any ideas on how to fill the chip in?
Last edited by Bandmaster on Mon Aug 14, 2006 6:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Dave Schaafsma

1966 Holton 345 | 1955 York-Master | 1939 York 716 | 1940 York 702 | 1968 Besson 226 | 1962 Miraphone 186 | 1967 Olds | 1923 Keefer EEb | 1895 Conn Eb | 1927 Conn 38K | 1919 Martin Helicon

1966 Holton 345 | 1955 York-Master | 1939 York 716 | 1940 York 702 | 1968 Besson 226 | 1962 Miraphone 186 | 1967 Olds | 1923 Keefer EEb | 1895 Conn Eb | 1927 Conn 38K | 1919 Martin Helicon
- Dan Schultz
- TubaTinker

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TUNAtinker??Bandmaster wrote:The epoxy is the way to go for reattaching the bell flare. But like Tunatinker said....

Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
- Lew
- 5 valves

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Now that's a fish!TubaTinker wrote:TUNAtinker??Bandmaster wrote:The epoxy is the way to go for reattaching the bell flare. But like Tunatinker said....
BTW, just to nitpick, the fiberglass version of the 20K was a model 22K.
Besson 983
Henry Distin 1897 BBb tuba
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Eastman EBB226
Henry Distin 1897 BBb tuba
Henry Distin 1898 BBb Helicon
Eastman EBB226
- Dean E
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There's a trick to mixing the epoxy resin. The fewer drops of hardener that you use, the more work time you have. In the summer, that stuff sets up really fast, so go easy on the hardener.Bandmaster wrote:The epoxy is the way to go for reattaching the bell flare. But like Tunatinker said, clean the tape residue off reall good first. Rubbing alcohol can work good for that.
. . . .
Most large auto parts stores sell small fiberglass repair kits. It should have enough fibergalss cloth and resin to fill in the chip. . . .
Adjust the quantity of drops of hardener for the temperature where you're working. In other words, you will need more hardener during the winter.
Dean E
[S]tudy politics and war, that our sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. Our sons ought to study mathematics and philosophy . . . in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry [and] music. . . . John Adams (1780)
[S]tudy politics and war, that our sons may have liberty to study mathematics and philosophy. Our sons ought to study mathematics and philosophy . . . in order to give their children a right to study painting, poetry [and] music. . . . John Adams (1780)
- Bandmaster
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I am sorry... that darn "N" key is right next to the "B" key and I have fat fingers.TubaTinker wrote:TUNAtinker??Bandmaster wrote:The epoxy is the way to go for reattaching the bell flare. But like Tunatinker said....
But at least it caused a few chuckles....
Dave Schaafsma

1966 Holton 345 | 1955 York-Master | 1939 York 716 | 1940 York 702 | 1968 Besson 226 | 1962 Miraphone 186 | 1967 Olds | 1923 Keefer EEb | 1895 Conn Eb | 1927 Conn 38K | 1919 Martin Helicon

1966 Holton 345 | 1955 York-Master | 1939 York 716 | 1940 York 702 | 1968 Besson 226 | 1962 Miraphone 186 | 1967 Olds | 1923 Keefer EEb | 1895 Conn Eb | 1927 Conn 38K | 1919 Martin Helicon
- Dan Schultz
- TubaTinker

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I'm not normally a spelling/grammer freak, but I just couldn't help myself!Bandmaster wrote:I am sorry... that darn "N" key is right next to the "B" key and I have fat fingers.TubaTinker wrote:TUNAtinker??Bandmaster wrote:The epoxy is the way to go for reattaching the bell flare. But like Tunatinker said....
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But at least it caused a few chuckles....
Dan Schultz
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
"The Village Tinker"
http://www.thevillagetinker.com" target="_blank
Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
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- iiipopes
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No, no, no! You can only do that with Bluefin, as they are the only ones with the big enough bodies to actually hold the extra gill without becoming side heavy. If you want a standard single hand action, put it before the dorsal; if it takes two hands for you to handle your whopper, (:shock::twisted:) then put it after.
REO said it best, you can tuna piano but you can't tuna fish.
REO said it best, you can tuna piano but you can't tuna fish.
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"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K
- windshieldbug
- Once got the "hand" as a cue

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