I'll add (Having been there, done that): Whatever you decide to get, try to test the bed that it is perfectly flat. And grab something to test accuracy of the angle readings. You are in a tool store, right?. There should be stuff laying around you can test with.
I bought my compound miter saw about 25 years ago when I built a storage shed with a barn type roof. Sears sold one that was kind of like a little radial arm saw where all the angles were adjustable. As I learned more about this, I realized that the bed on my saw is not perfectly flat -- it is slightly higher on one side of the blade. So the size of the wood affects the accuracy of the angle.
Another thing to look at is how true the blade turns (i.e. no side to side movement, and you can't wiggle it around by hand). That will affect the smoothness of your cuts ... another thing I learned the hard way.
Power Miter Saw
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SplatterTone
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Good signature lines: http://tinyurl.com/a47spm
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Chuck(G)
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...and the same goes for any of the cast iron stationary tools there. There are some very good bargains, but you have to be willing to true things up and sometimes go as far as reworking the ways.SplatterTone wrote:I'll add (Having been there, done that): Whatever you decide to get, try to test the bed that it is perfectly flat. And grab something to test accuracy of the angle readings. You are in a tool store, right?. There should be stuff laying around you can test with.
I have a little 4" tub saw that bought at HF for $40. It did the job for less than renting one would have cost--and it probably still has a few tiling jobs left in it, so I'm money ahead there. But I had only a few tiles to miter-cut, so it was a fair gamble.
Unfortunately, many consumer-end tools today are at least partly made in China.
If you want something that will last for years, be prepared to pay real money for a name brand like Porter-Cable, Milwaukee, Hitachi, etc. If you want something for light use, HF is just fine if you're careful in your shopping. Stay away from Ryobi, B&D and the "consumer-only" lines if you spend real money.
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runelk
- pro musician
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Rick Denney
- Resident Genius
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On Delta tools:
They have two grades. Their cheaper grade (such as what Harold describes at Costco) is no better than Black and Decker, which I rate about two notches below Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight's house brand). I have some of it, and it works fine, but it's not up to the Delta reputation.
I have a (pro-grade and expensive) Delta miter saw, not compound, with a 12" blade. I had to do some serious tuning on it to get it true. The built-in 90-degree detent was almost a quarter degree off. It does have an adjustable gauge pointer, and I aligned that to the correct position, but I have to nudge the saw past the standard detents to use it.
On Miter Saws:
Miter saws are good for crosscutting and mitering long, narrow pieces, especially in a high-production mode such as when trimming out a house with bass and crown molding and chair rails, etc. For mitering and crosscutting shorter pieces, such as cabinet-door rails and stiles, picture frames, and 30" shelf boards, I prefer a good miter gauge on a table saw. A good miter gauge is as precise as any miter saw and provides very accurate angle settings. And a good one won't cost any more than a cheapier miter saw that you'll still have to tune up with precision measuring equipment. Of course, you have probably already had to true up your table saw.
On Harbor Freight:
I've bought quite a bit of stuff from Harbor Freight. The consumer goods are junk, but sometimes good enough for the task for which they are bought. The air tools are medium grade and work fine for the home worker. The Chicago Electric power tools are actually excellent, in my view. They have ball bearings, adjustable (and accessible) brushes, and a reasonable design. I have thrown away all my Black and Decker power tools and their ilk (stuff made to look "homey" for weekend buyers, and that generally have bronze bushings instead of ball bearings, etc.). They burned up without having done much real work. The brands that I have enjoyed keeping included Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Craftsman Industrial (not just plain Craftsman), and Dewalt. All have proven themselves. More recently, I have bought specialty power tools from Harbor Freight, such as a sheet metal shear and various angle grinders, and they have been...outstanding. I haven't been able to burn any of them up.
I also have several sets of the HF brand Pittsburgh Professional hand tools, and these have been excellent. They have the same polish and apparent durability as tools by Cornwell, meaning they are as good or better than Craftsman and not as good as Snap-On.
I have a perfectly decent Harbor Freight bearing press, and I drool over the lathes and mill/lathe multipurpose machines every time I'm there. They seem reasonably well made for the price. The HF drill presses are at least as good as the Tractor Supply cheapie that I bought for the same price, and they are probably made in the same Chinese factory.
But some of their specialty automotive tools are a joke. I have a bearing seal driver that is laughable. I just shook my head when I opened the box (I only paid $7 for it). On the other hand, the ball joint press and the steering wheel lock plate press I bought there are both decent and as good as the Lisle stuff hanging on the rack at a NAPA store.
Any precision tool would need to be thoroughly checked and tuned, but I've found that with high-end tools, too.
Rick "who collects tools and occasionally even knows how to use them" Denney
They have two grades. Their cheaper grade (such as what Harold describes at Costco) is no better than Black and Decker, which I rate about two notches below Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight's house brand). I have some of it, and it works fine, but it's not up to the Delta reputation.
I have a (pro-grade and expensive) Delta miter saw, not compound, with a 12" blade. I had to do some serious tuning on it to get it true. The built-in 90-degree detent was almost a quarter degree off. It does have an adjustable gauge pointer, and I aligned that to the correct position, but I have to nudge the saw past the standard detents to use it.
On Miter Saws:
Miter saws are good for crosscutting and mitering long, narrow pieces, especially in a high-production mode such as when trimming out a house with bass and crown molding and chair rails, etc. For mitering and crosscutting shorter pieces, such as cabinet-door rails and stiles, picture frames, and 30" shelf boards, I prefer a good miter gauge on a table saw. A good miter gauge is as precise as any miter saw and provides very accurate angle settings. And a good one won't cost any more than a cheapier miter saw that you'll still have to tune up with precision measuring equipment. Of course, you have probably already had to true up your table saw.
On Harbor Freight:
I've bought quite a bit of stuff from Harbor Freight. The consumer goods are junk, but sometimes good enough for the task for which they are bought. The air tools are medium grade and work fine for the home worker. The Chicago Electric power tools are actually excellent, in my view. They have ball bearings, adjustable (and accessible) brushes, and a reasonable design. I have thrown away all my Black and Decker power tools and their ilk (stuff made to look "homey" for weekend buyers, and that generally have bronze bushings instead of ball bearings, etc.). They burned up without having done much real work. The brands that I have enjoyed keeping included Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Craftsman Industrial (not just plain Craftsman), and Dewalt. All have proven themselves. More recently, I have bought specialty power tools from Harbor Freight, such as a sheet metal shear and various angle grinders, and they have been...outstanding. I haven't been able to burn any of them up.
I also have several sets of the HF brand Pittsburgh Professional hand tools, and these have been excellent. They have the same polish and apparent durability as tools by Cornwell, meaning they are as good or better than Craftsman and not as good as Snap-On.
I have a perfectly decent Harbor Freight bearing press, and I drool over the lathes and mill/lathe multipurpose machines every time I'm there. They seem reasonably well made for the price. The HF drill presses are at least as good as the Tractor Supply cheapie that I bought for the same price, and they are probably made in the same Chinese factory.
But some of their specialty automotive tools are a joke. I have a bearing seal driver that is laughable. I just shook my head when I opened the box (I only paid $7 for it). On the other hand, the ball joint press and the steering wheel lock plate press I bought there are both decent and as good as the Lisle stuff hanging on the rack at a NAPA store.
Any precision tool would need to be thoroughly checked and tuned, but I've found that with high-end tools, too.
Rick "who collects tools and occasionally even knows how to use them" Denney
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Chuck(G)
- 6 valves
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It's odd, but my favorite cordless drill is an $8 HF 14.4v special with a $9 HF 18 volt battery fitted to it. It's lightweight, with plenty of torque and decent speed and a charge seems to last all day.
I half expected to burn it up on my last project (driving #10 3" deck screws) but it's still doing just fine.
The original 14.4v battery-cum-charger is junk, however.
When the drill eventually gives up the ghost, I'll still have the $9 battery, so I'll be out a grand total of $8 and have to drop back to my 18v Dewalt.
If you do go to HF, check the pricing on the website first. Most stores have the policy that if you bring in a website ad with a lower price, they'll give you the item for the lower web price, not the store price.
And sign up for their email coupons. Usually, there's nothing special there, but sometimes there's a reallly good deal, like leather gloves for $0.99/pair.
I half expected to burn it up on my last project (driving #10 3" deck screws) but it's still doing just fine.
The original 14.4v battery-cum-charger is junk, however.
When the drill eventually gives up the ghost, I'll still have the $9 battery, so I'll be out a grand total of $8 and have to drop back to my 18v Dewalt.
If you do go to HF, check the pricing on the website first. Most stores have the policy that if you bring in a website ad with a lower price, they'll give you the item for the lower web price, not the store price.
And sign up for their email coupons. Usually, there's nothing special there, but sometimes there's a reallly good deal, like leather gloves for $0.99/pair.