Besson three valve compensating Eb

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Chuck(G)
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Post by Chuck(G) »

iiipopes wrote:Yes, indeed. They are called difference tones or "Tartini's" tones, from the guy who first described them. But if you're not exactly on pitch and can hold it steady, like a pipe organ does to synthesize a 32' stop when there is insufficient space or height for true 32' pipes, that difference tone can wobble badly, and detract from the solidity of the group rather than reinforce it. Another technical word for the effect is called heterodyning.
Do you think that the probability of a BBb tuba player playing the sub-octave C is tune is any better than the possibility of someone playing the the concert G2 in tune--where the player can actually hear the interval clearly?

Now, why something that has probably been known since the time of Pythagoras should be named after an 18th century violinist, of all people is a mystery to me. Probably because the wire choir members get a shot at concertmaster and write all of the books.

My well-thumbed copy of Helmholtz that I've probably had for the last 35 years has a lot of interesting observations, such as the following;

http://www.chisham.com/tips/bbs/jul2001 ... 61976.html

I'm not convinced that I believe him, however.
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Post by iiipopes »

Chuck(G) wrote:Do you think that the probability of a BBb tuba player playing the sub-octave C is tune is any better than the possibility of someone playing the the concert G2 in tune--where the player can actually hear the interval clearly?
Marginally, because the even overtones of the lower note all line up with all the overtones of the higher note, so there are more overtones in common for the ear to pick one to tune with, and therefore any wobbling or heterodyning is therefore truly being out of tune rather than the creation of separate difference or additive tones.
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Post by WakinAZ »

Since I am not qualified to participate in the overtone sub-thread:

Does anyone know of a good source for felts for this horn?

Also this came with a Besson 17 small shank mouthpiece. What would be something roughly equivalent in the Wick line?

Eric "trying to steer this back to Besson Ebs" L.
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Post by iiipopes »

If it has its original smaller receiver, the usual Wick mouthpiece that was supplied with an Eefer is a Wick 3. If the receiver has been changed out for an "American Standard" size, then a Wick 3L.
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Post by WakinAZ »

Can I remove the green corrosion on the outside of the valve casings with fine steel wool next time I give it a bath? It seems like it was from some spray from a tubing leak where it enters the valve block; apparently it was repaired or has crusted over.

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Post by iiipopes »

DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL YOU WILL RUIN THE VALVES AND THE CASINGS.

Use a brush made for the purpose. If it absolutely will not come off, and no other safe means will get it off, as a last resort mix up a solution of water, vinegar, salt and hand dish soap, and use a soft toothbrush or other brush made for the purpose, soak the part and very lightly brush the corrosion off. Then rinse.

And rinse.

Then rinse some more.

Did I say rinse?

Rinse.

Oh, yeah -- rinse.

Rinse.
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Post by Chuck(G) »

iiipopes wrote:DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL YOU WILL RUIN THE VALVES AND THE CASINGS.
I must confess to being thoroughly confused. Eric said:
Can I remove the green corrosion on the outside of the valve casings with fine steel wool next time I give it a bath? It seems like it was from some spray from a tubing leak where it enters the valve block; apparently it was repaired or has crusted over.
How is anything that you do to the outside of the valve casings up to and including use of emery paper going to ruin the valves or the casings? While I'll agree that it's probably not a good idea to sandpaper the knuckles on the valve casings or the inner surfaces of the casings or the pistons themselves, I don't see how doing much of anything to the outer surfaces of the casings will harm the valves. :?

Myself, I'd probably use a bit of metal polish on the green spots.
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Post by WakinAZ »

iiipopes wrote:DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL YOU WILL RUIN THE VALVES AND THE CASINGS.
I guess I meant the outside of the valve block, wrong term. See circled red area in photo. So this is not the inside of the valve at all. Same answer?

Image

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Post by WakinAZ »

WakinAZ wrote:
iiipopes wrote:DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL YOU WILL RUIN THE VALVES AND THE CASINGS.
I guess I meant the outside of the valve block, wrong term. See circled red area in photo. So this is not the inside of the valve at all. Same answer?

Image

Eric "the Red" L.
anyone?

Eric "the partially blue-green" L.
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Post by Chuck(G) »

Like I said, use some metal polish. Wright's copper cleaner, even Brasso. Steel wool leaves little scratches that won't look purty.
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Post by WakinAZ »

oops, didn't see your post in there Chuck.

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Post by iiipopes »

As I said.
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