New Tuba Question

[Chuck(G)]

Give the innards of the horn a bath in lukewarm water, scrub the small tubes out with a trombone snake, dry and reoil. If it doesn't get any better, it's a job for a pro or maybe due for an exchange (Exchange? Hey, that's what TE does, right?)

[Matt G]

Chuck offers good advice, however, I would tell Vince at TE that I'll be taking the horn in to be professionally cleaned at his expense. He makes more than enough markup on these horns to cover it. Also, some solder could be loose or something else that needs to be addressed that a pro should be handling, not you the novice rotary-vavle-owner.

Reputable dealers will normally try to at least get the valves going well enough to move without sticking when they receive the shipment. Also, seeing as the "Factory" for this horn is more than likely somehow subsidized by Vinny-poo, he should be more than willing to put out some minor expense for a hopefully happy customer.

[imperialbari]

... however, I would tell Vince at TE that I'll be taking the horn in to be professionally cleaned at his expense.

Isn't this a pretty effective advise about how the original poster best will loose the cleaning expenses?

According to what I know about business practise, the seller has the first shot at deciding how to remedy shortcomings. Involving a third party in the process will void the original guarantee unless this involvement happens in full agreement (preferably in writing) from the original seller.

As for the noise coming from the instrument, there are a real lot of potential sources.

The links and axles in the leverage system all need to be clean and well oiled also. Symptoms like the mentioned ones also can occur in a fairly good system like ball-and-socket, if one adjustment screw is tightened just a tiny bit too much.

Klaus

[Dylan King]

That all sounds like good advise to me. Also try using Marvel Mystrery Oil until you can't stand the sludge. It will clean the valves of any deposits that may be sticking around in there.

I have also been using this great new product called Z-Max. Also an auto-care product.n It claims to get into the molecules in the metal. I use Z-Max small engine formula, then I give it some Marvel Mystery Oil, then I spritz on a little Al Cass. It works wonders for both my rotary and piston horns.

Good luck.

[Daniel C. Oberloh]

Gary is correct, If the valve has dimensional issues, you can oil till the cows come home including any secret concoction mixed in the bath tub and it is still going to hang up. St. Petes have a nice tone and and are decently in tune but mechanically tend to have serious issues. The type of linkage problems are found on the cheaper stuff that looks like it came off a childs toy, that is a plastic collar wrapped around a ball on the lever and stop-arm. The plastic collar/link is on the ends of the connecting rod and has a screw in it that can be at times set a little on the tight side. You can loosen the screw slightly and see if the rotor turns more easily, if it still hangs up then it is probably an issue with the rotor and its casing and /or bearings. If it is the latter you will need to contact the seller to make arrangements to make it right. Good luck.

Daniel C. Oberloh

Oberloh Woodwind and Brass Works
Saving the world, one horn at a time...