I'm headed off to grad school and need to pick up a tux before I go (kinda out grew the last one a few oreos ago ) but the last time I bought a tux was 15-20 years ago and I'm a little confused about all the options so I seek the advice of the all-wise TNFJ . Wool, tropical wool, polyester, or ? 1, 2, 3, or 4 button? Full or wing collar? What about the collar on the jacket, do I want shawl or notch?
I'm looking for a basic concert black set-up that I'll be able to walk into almost any group and fit in when they ask for tux/formal wear.
For a black tux, my recommendation is to go with what YOU prefer. You could then actually wear this whenever you wanted. Light weight, because stage lights are hot. Black tie, collar doesn't matter. I've seen both kinds used.
Tails would be another matter, but even in the biggest pro orchestras I've seen some variation of collar, vest, cummerbund, etc.
You should look at these as working clothes. Just don't get so much grease on them.
Instead of talking to your plants, if you yelled at them would they still grow, but only to be troubled and insecure?
As usual, I'm going to go completely against the grain, if not completely against the grosgrain (pun intended). And not because I tie my own bow tie and wear my dad's black cummerbund that has served admirably for 50 years. I'm speaking from the experience of owning and wearing a tuxedo for all sorts of occasions, (performances, social occasions, weddings, dinner parties, etc., in other words, everything) not renting in any event unless the person I'm standing up with at a wedding absolutely demands it.
If you can't get lightweight worsted wool at a reasonable price, go poly-wool, with a blend that is in the neighborhood of 50/50 or 60/40. It will last forever.
I prefer the traditional, time-tested, single breasted peak collar jacket, although regular notch collars (like regular suits) are becoming the norm, and the shawl collar of a medium width is always a classic. Whichever way is fine. Just make sure the lapels are a good satin so they don't pick or scuff and look crappy after only a few wears. An all-poly tux will, and is a waste of money. That's why go the extra few bucks and get at least a worsted poly-wool, if not all a worsted wool with real satin lapels. The difference in price will be the difference in it lasting a couple of years and 50 years. I still even get my dad's white dinner jacket out occasionally and wear it during the summer, and it's the same jacket he got married in August 1960. And DON'T do double-breasted. It just gets hot and gets in the way.
Get the pants with the heavyweight adjustible side buckles for waist size. Yes, if I was only wearing the tuxedo to formal corporate board meeting Christmas parties, I'd get the standard tailored like suit dress slacks tuxedo pants. But we play tuba. We take deep breaths. To be able to discreetly let out the pants while wearing suspenders so we don't feel cramped while playing is the overriding consideration.
Make sure you get suspenders and use them. And get the real ones that need buttons on the inside of the waist of the pants, not clips. Not only because you'll have a loose waist, but I forgot to wear suspenders my junior year of high school spring formal concert. As I was taking the stage, the antique side zipper gave out and I had to hold my pants up the entire concert with my elbow. They should have a slight break over the vamp of your shoes: not high-water, and not dragging the ground in back.
Shirts are my favorite pet peeves. Unless you're going to get the real detachable collars from the UK, don't bother with sewn on wing tips. They look like **** after about three washings. they curl, and nobody really can decide whether to wear the points over or under the tie. Do what the Duke of Windsor did: a regular turn-down (business collar) shirt with the usual 1/4 inch pleats. Again, if you don't like to launder 100% cotton, get a 60/40 blend. It is easy to launder, the collars only need a slight touch-up, and it will last forever. Whatever you wear for a standard dress or business shirt size, get your tuxedo shirt 1/2 inch larger in the neck. Again, you're taking deep breaths, and the last thing you want is a tight collar. The cuffs should show about 3/8 inch to at most 1/2 inch when you have your sleeve lengths of your shirt and tux jacket tailor or altered correctly.
Vest or cummerbund is up to the conductor. I'm starting to prefer a vest in my "old" age, because of the same reason of eliminating elastic around the waist. Sometimes I don't even bother with either.
Wrap around and hook ready-made bow ties are fine. Even though I prefer to tie myself, I actually wore the pre-tied one for the Welk TV show taping, because the special was edited from shows taped over three days, and I didn't want any continuity glitches. Seriously. I know that borders on the anal-retentive, but it was a real consideration, considering all of the singers were doing the same thing.
Get an extra shirt. You will need it, especially for consecutive performances.
Studs, links, or buttons are up to you. Since I'm mostly hidden by my tuba, I've gone all buttons recently, although I do have my studs and links.
Since we do have to be comfortable, I am using a good mid-weight brand of over the calf socks, like Gold-Toe. I don't use the thin hosery type socks for two reasons: 1) I'm not Fred Astaire, and 2) you will get blisters, especially with stiff shoes.
Shoes: whatever is comfortable and meets the auspices of your ensemble. Some like real patent leather, some like the cor-fam or vinyl, others use regular plain toe dress shoes shined properly. I'm in the back. I don't care. I'm comfortable.
Formal wear is an issue I've dealt with since being an early teenager, over 30 years ago. These are the comments from a guy who has worn almost every variation on a theme, and knows what will stand up over time and what won't.
I've had success dealing with http://www.buy4lesstuxedo.com. They responded very quickly and helped to get the size that I needed. I got a 2 button notch worsted wool jacket & pants. They didn't have the brand and size combination that I ordered in stock so they substituted an upgrade for the original price. Paid $138.
bloke wrote:Locally, there has been a concerted effort to convince church music guys to allow musicians to wear black SUITS to gigs. Only the hillbilly fort-god type churches (that also tend to pay less $$$) still insist on tuxedos...
...but (realistically) to cover all sorts of gigs, you need a
- black (NOTdark blue) suit
- tuxedo (screw the vest...too hot!) with the simplest shirt that qualifies as a "tux" shirt".
- tails (Saturday night orchestra jobs, etc.)
- white dinner jacket (DO NOT dry clean, unless you want a YELLOW dinner jacket)
and (if you play in a jazz band at upscale events) probably:
- navy blue blazer
- medium grey pants
- khaki pants
Bloke makes a good point. Yes, this is a tuxedo thread, and that is the first order of business for performance attire. But if you're going to be performing a range of gigs, then you need a performance wardrobe. I don't have the tails, as I don't do orchestra gigs. But I have the rest of the wardrobe bloke describes in my clothes closet. And if I did orchestra gigs, I'd go purchase a tailcoat, and white pique tie, shirt & formal vest. I also have my white Shrine band shirt and a different pair of lightweight black pants for those gigs (usually outdoor summer), a separate polo of the appropriate color for the university community band outdoor gigs, and so forth.
No, I don't have lederhosen. But if I get called to a polka or biergarten gig, and they don't supply them, well, knee high boy scout socks will just have to do.
personally, I'd get the black, one button, peaked lapels. That way it's not likely to go out of style in ten years. The object is to blend in with 'the crowd' rather than to look like you're going to the prom.
bardus est ut bardus probo, Bill Souder
All mushrooms are edible, some are edible only once.
bloke wrote:Locally, there has been a concerted effort to convince church music guys to allow musicians to wear black SUITS to gigs. Only the hillbilly fort-god type churches (that also tend to pay less $$$) still insist on tuxedos...
...but (realistically) to cover all sorts of gigs, you need a
- black (NOTdark blue) suit
- tuxedo (screw the vest...too hot!) with the simplest shirt that qualifies as a "tux" shirt".
- tails (Saturday night orchestra jobs, etc.)
- white dinner jacket (DO NOT dry clean, unless you want a YELLOW dinner jacket)
and (if you play in a jazz band at upscale events) probably:
- navy blue blazer
- medium grey pants
- khaki pants
Nice list. I would add black slacks and a long-sleeved black shirt for pit work, etc.
bloke wrote:Locally, there has been a concerted effort to convince church music guys to allow musicians to wear black SUITS to gigs. Only the hillbilly fort-god type churches (that also tend to pay less $$$) still insist on tuxedos...
...but (realistically) to cover all sorts of gigs, you need a
- black (NOTdark blue) suit
- tuxedo (screw the vest...too hot!) with the simplest shirt that qualifies as a "tux" shirt".
- tails (Saturday night orchestra jobs, etc.)
- white dinner jacket (DO NOT dry clean, unless you want a YELLOW dinner jacket)
and (if you play in a jazz band at upscale events) probably:
- navy blue blazer
- medium grey pants
- khaki pants
Nice list. I would add black slacks and a long-sleeved black shirt for pit work, etc.
This is a nice list and great advice. With the exception of the tux and grey slacks I already own all of this and have used it on many occasions. I'll be purchasing a tux soon and might have to add the grey slacks as well. Tails will probably have to wait a little longer until I get a little extra cash or can prove to the wife that it would be a good thing to get even if I only wear it for her .
So to summarize and make sure I have a proper understanding: wool tux (worsted wool preferably as it is lighter weight, correct?), satin lapels and satin stripe down the pants, lapel and collar style is my preference, adjustable waist pants (as if there were any doubt here ) with button suspenders, and get an extra shirt. Did I miss anything?
iiipopes wrote:As usual, I'm going to go completely against the grain, if not completely against the grosgrain (pun intended). And not because I tie my own bow tie and wear my dad's black cummerbund that has served admirably for 50 years. I'm speaking from the experience of owning and wearing a tuxedo for all sorts of occasions, (performances, social occasions, weddings, dinner parties, etc., in other words, everything) not renting in any event unless the person I'm standing up with at a wedding absolutely demands it.
...
Formal wear is an issue I've dealt with since being an early teenager, over 30 years ago. These are the comments from a guy who has worn almost every variation on a theme, and knows what will stand up over time and what won't.
) but the last time I bought a tux was 15-20 years ago and I'm a little confused about all the options so I seek the advice of the all-wise TNFJ 
. Wool, tropical wool, polyester, or ? 1, 2, 3, or 4 button? Full or wing collar? What about the collar on the jacket, do I want shawl or notch?
effort to convince church music guys to allow musicians to wear black SUITS to gigs. Only the hillbilly fort-god type churches (that also tend to pay less $$$) still insist on tuxedos...
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