Chance at a 20J

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Rick Denney
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by Rick Denney »

TUbajohn20J wrote:Looks like a nice horn, you should definately go try it out. You probably won't be disapointed. I love mine, mine also works very well for the college playing I do (quartets, wind ensemble, solos). They sound great. Big massive tone. I know others such as Rick state that they could not get below a mf without losing sound quality. Mine I think happens to be one of those "good" ones. It has the best p and mp of most tubas I've played, and the low register is hard to beat with any other tuba. Good luck
A 20J with that quality is about as rare as a Holton with manageable intonation. Read: Rare, indeed.

But even though I can play more softly with better tone on my Holton than on my Miraphone, that doesn't mean the sound it produces when playing that softly has the core and focus needed to balance the more pointed sounds of instruments in, say, a brass quintet. It can be done, but it takes a LOT of work.

Forwarned, though, Mr. "Jackson" will know what to be careful about as he reviews his options.

Rick "unable to reconcile 'big massive tone' in the BAT context with the brass quintet (or other chamber ensemble) sound I aspire to" Denney
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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The Jackson wrote:Yeah, I've read about the tuning bit and the flat 3rd partial. I don't think acquiring a bit would be too difficult, though.


I remember seeing this at the BBC a while back, and it seems to be still for sale. Does anyone have any information on this horn? It looks like it's in good shape. Looks like a good "do all" horn? The price is $1795
Hello Jackson,
Definately give Baltimore Brass a call about this tuba. I can be pretty certain that this would not be your "dream" tuba but, with four valves it will more than likely beat the Conn. As for learning the CC tuba, since I know your playing and abilities I'm confident that you will adapt quickly to the new fingerings. (That's not to say that there will not be some frustrating moments.)

For others reading this thread Jackson contributed some very good tuba playing at the Stetson Brass Camp this summer.
Amongst aviators it is often said that any landing you can walk away from is a good landing. It's an even better landing when you can reuse the airplane.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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Tom Waid wrote:
The Jackson wrote:Yeah, I've read about the tuning bit and the flat 3rd partial. I don't think acquiring a bit would be too difficult, though.


I remember seeing this at the BBC a while back, and it seems to be still for sale. Does anyone have any information on this horn? It looks like it's in good shape. Looks like a good "do all" horn? The price is $1795
Hello Jackson,
Definately give Baltimore Brass a call about this tuba. I can be pretty certain that this would not be your "dream" tuba but, with four valves it will more than likely beat the Conn. As for learning the CC tuba, since I know your playing and abilities I'm confident that you will adapt quickly to the new fingerings. (That's not to say that there will not be some frustrating moments.)

For others reading this thread Jackson contributed some very good tuba playing at the Stetson Brass Camp this summer.
Thank you, Mr. Waid! I appreciate that a lot.

I just got off the phone with Baltimore Brass, and they were very helpful with my questions. The horn is an Eb to CC conversion. That's why some of the slides are raw brass. It's in pretty good condition on the whole. They say it was made in 1940. It looks like a pretty good horn, so I'm going to talk to my mom about it.
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Todd S. Malicoate
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by Todd S. Malicoate »

Bob1062 wrote:No offense to you Todd, but who would really want to do that? And it's not at ALL necessary to drop 30,000 on a horn. Or even 5!
No offense taken, Bob.

I said $30K for tubas I didn't need. More than one. It seems to be necessary to own a contrabass and a bass tuba if you're a serious tuba student these days. $30K is about right for two new professional model horns...one C and one F. Just for argument's sake, let's say an HB-2 and a YFB-621. That's what I meant. I could have borrowed the money for those in college, but thankfully I didn't.

I don't understand what you meant by "who would really want to do that?" What is it I did that people wouldn't want to do? Play on school horns? Why not?
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by Todd S. Malicoate »

Bob1062 wrote:I don't have a problem at all with playing a school horn (did so in HS and college part 1), but I would really want at least one horn of my own if/when I were a music major.
That's the crux of my argument...why does "being a music major" automatically mean someone needs to own their own instrument? Beyond the "I want one" argument?

I know many people feel differently that I do about this, and that's perfectly all right. I'm just pointing out that you don't have to buy a horn so dang early in your career. Get good on the school equipment...there's plenty to work on.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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Todd S. Malicoate wrote:Get good on the school equipment...there's plenty to work on.
The longer you wait to buy your own first instrument, the closer that instrument will be to what you really want and need. The experience of playing on those school horns (even the Bessons) is what makes it so.

That said, I didn't play the summer after my first year in college, because I didn't own a tuba. The result was that I wasn't prepared for the audition for the band for the second year, and I didn't get in (in the first year, three of the four tuba players, meaning everyone but me, were all-staters--and that college had no music program). I didn't play again for eight years.

Rick "assuming that there is a school instrument available to borrow" Denney
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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Re: Chance at a 20J

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Hello Jackson,
Check your messages!
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The Jackson
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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Well, I just got back from the 20J, and I'm feeling pretty good. The first thing that hit me and stuck in my mind was the sound. Gorgeous, gorgeous sound. The fat and full sound that all the band directors I know drool for. The second thing I noticed was the ease of response. I did not have to work very hard to slide down into the lower range which was a big issue for me with the 186 I had for a while.

I did have some trouble with controlling it, as many of you have mentioned. I had to work to get softer and still have good sound, but I think I still did it. Letting loose on it, though, was no trouble at all. Even while peeling the paint and caving in the ceiling, the sound remained fat and full. Personally, I also like this sound compared to a "German" horn like the 186 or the Yamaha 641. I think the sound is much more character-like, if that makes any sense.

With the 3 valves and it's difficulty to control, though, I don't think this is the right horn for me right now. It was still a great tuba, though, and I had a lot of fun playing it.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by TUbajohn20J »

Dont let the fact that it has 3 valves steer you away from buying it. I can do everything on a 20J that I can with a 4 valver. (with the right mpc. PT48 or PT 50). The 3 valvers are great horns.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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TUbajohn20J wrote:Dont let the fact that it has 3 valves steer you away from buying it. I can do everything on a 20J that I can with a 4 valver. (with the right mpc. PT48 or PT 50). The 3 valvers are great horns.
There are those who can do everything with a hosephone. But the question remains: How hard do you want to have to work?

I played three-valve instruments for all but a few months of my first 16 years of tuba playing (though half of those were dormant). Yes, they worked. But what a revelation it was for me to have that extra valve, and not have to work so hard to play in tune (or force those around me to work so hard to get around my bad intonation).

You can do just fine on a three-valve tuba for big portions of the repertoire. But there will come a time when you'll need to hold a low C at piano, and doing that will require pulling the third valve slide to keep it approximately in tune, since lipping it at piano for an extended note will probably undermine its tone. And then that pulled third valve will make the 2-3 combinations flat, and it will remove the 1-3 combination from the toolbox for dealing with the unusably flat third-partial F. Finding the right compromise for all the settings will just leave too many holes. For many genres, it doesn't matter as much. Band music for which sousaphones are used are usually written in flat keys so that you are unlikely to be asked to hold a piano low C, for example. And if you are playing in a Dixieland jazz band, you can play whatever notes you want. But in quintets and wind ensembles, you'll face the issue.

One common mod for three-valve sousaphones is to make the first (and maybe third) upper crook a pullable tuning slide, and it is easily reached with the left hand. But reaching slides for pulling on a 20J is not easy. Many performers find the need to adjust slides even on four and five-valved tubas in order to really play in tune with resonant tone. The rotary and front-action piston tubas recommended in this thread make such adjustments easy. One of the big problems with the 2xJ is the ergonomics. And your bell will usually be pointed opposite the bells of other players, making section seating a problem of minimizing hazards. Been there, done that.

I think The Jackson's response to his test of the 20J showed a lot of maturity and good sense, recognizing the grand sound but realizing the short-comings that have to be overcome. Those short-comings might not be as obvious to everyone.

Rick "who has owned a 20J, but could never use it in an ensemble effectively" Denney
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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The Jackson wrote: Personally, I also like this sound compared to a "German" horn like the 186 or the Yamaha 641. I think the sound is much more character-like, if that makes any sense.
I think that is the "American" sound fellas talk about.

A King 1241/2341 could be your friend.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by TUbajohn20J »

Rick Denney wrote:
You can do just fine on a three-valve tuba for big portions of the repertoire. But there will come a time when you'll need to hold a low C at piano, and doing that will require pulling the third valve slide to keep it approximately in tune, since lipping it at piano for an extended note will probably undermine its tone. And then that pulled third valve will make the 2-3 combinations flat, and it will remove the 1-3 combination from the toolbox for dealing with the unusably flat third-partial F. Finding the right compromise for all the settings will just leave too many holes. For many genres, it doesn't matter as much. Band music for which sousaphones are used are usually written in flat keys so that you are unlikely to be asked to hold a piano low C, for example. And if you are playing in a Dixieland jazz band, you can play whatever notes you want. But in quintets and wind ensembles, you'll face the issue.

One common mod for three-valve sousaphones is to make the first (and maybe third) upper crook a pullable tuning slide, and it is easily reached with the left hand. But reaching slides for pulling on a 20J is not easy. Many performers find the need to adjust slides even on four and five-valved tubas in order to really play in tune with resonant tone. The rotary and front-action piston tubas recommended in this thread make such adjustments easy. One of the big problems with the 2xJ is the ergonomics. And your bell will usually be pointed opposite the bells of other players, making section seating a problem of minimizing hazards. Been there, done that.

Rick "who has owned a 20J, but could never use it in an ensemble effectively" Denney
Very well put. That's why I think Conn intented for the 20J not to be an orchestral horn, but more for recording studio purposes and jazz bands. The 20J is a "you come to it. not bring it with you type horn"
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by The Jackson »

Yeah, I was very surprised when the gentleman told me that he used the 20J as his main orchestra horn.

Well, after talking with my teacher as well as some other people, things are looking good for me on trying out that King CC at Baltimore Brass.

In the meantime, my teacher has VERY GRACIOUSLY offered to let me borrow his smaller horn (Yamaha 661) for practice. Lucky, I am, to have such a great person in my life.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by imperialbari »

Scooby Tuba wrote:
TUbajohn20J wrote: That's why I think Conn intented for the 20J not to be an orchestral horn, but more for recording studio purposes and jazz bands.
The 2xJ horns are meant to sit in the back of a concert band. Any other use is coincidental...
Too bad you didn't tell this to Conn back in 1934:
1934 Conn 20J page.jpg
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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the elephant wrote:
Doc wrote:
the elephant wrote:If your orchestra is populated with gibbons, a 20J would be a gorilla.
Funny...coming from an elephant.
My comment, in terms edited for consumption by our TubeNet representatives of the law enforcement community:

If your orchestra is populated with 45 ACP, a 20J would be a 16" battleship shell. 8)
Naw. That's the Rudy 6/4, with the understanding that that shell must be laser-guided and able to destroy a small target even if it doesn't explode.

The 2xJ is a blunderbuss--a .50 elephant gun (no relation to present company) with the flared barrel end. The only people who look right in association with either have well-sculpted handlebar mustaches.

Rick "thinking that grenade launcher carried by The Terminator seems about right, too" Denney
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