Chance at a 20J

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Rick Denney
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by Rick Denney »

Todd S. Malicoate wrote:Get good on the school equipment...there's plenty to work on.
The longer you wait to buy your own first instrument, the closer that instrument will be to what you really want and need. The experience of playing on those school horns (even the Bessons) is what makes it so.

That said, I didn't play the summer after my first year in college, because I didn't own a tuba. The result was that I wasn't prepared for the audition for the band for the second year, and I didn't get in (in the first year, three of the four tuba players, meaning everyone but me, were all-staters--and that college had no music program). I didn't play again for eight years.

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Re: Chance at a 20J

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Re: Chance at a 20J

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Hello Jackson,
Check your messages!
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The Jackson
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by The Jackson »

Well, I just got back from the 20J, and I'm feeling pretty good. The first thing that hit me and stuck in my mind was the sound. Gorgeous, gorgeous sound. The fat and full sound that all the band directors I know drool for. The second thing I noticed was the ease of response. I did not have to work very hard to slide down into the lower range which was a big issue for me with the 186 I had for a while.

I did have some trouble with controlling it, as many of you have mentioned. I had to work to get softer and still have good sound, but I think I still did it. Letting loose on it, though, was no trouble at all. Even while peeling the paint and caving in the ceiling, the sound remained fat and full. Personally, I also like this sound compared to a "German" horn like the 186 or the Yamaha 641. I think the sound is much more character-like, if that makes any sense.

With the 3 valves and it's difficulty to control, though, I don't think this is the right horn for me right now. It was still a great tuba, though, and I had a lot of fun playing it.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by TUbajohn20J »

Dont let the fact that it has 3 valves steer you away from buying it. I can do everything on a 20J that I can with a 4 valver. (with the right mpc. PT48 or PT 50). The 3 valvers are great horns.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

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TUbajohn20J wrote:Dont let the fact that it has 3 valves steer you away from buying it. I can do everything on a 20J that I can with a 4 valver. (with the right mpc. PT48 or PT 50). The 3 valvers are great horns.
There are those who can do everything with a hosephone. But the question remains: How hard do you want to have to work?

I played three-valve instruments for all but a few months of my first 16 years of tuba playing (though half of those were dormant). Yes, they worked. But what a revelation it was for me to have that extra valve, and not have to work so hard to play in tune (or force those around me to work so hard to get around my bad intonation).

You can do just fine on a three-valve tuba for big portions of the repertoire. But there will come a time when you'll need to hold a low C at piano, and doing that will require pulling the third valve slide to keep it approximately in tune, since lipping it at piano for an extended note will probably undermine its tone. And then that pulled third valve will make the 2-3 combinations flat, and it will remove the 1-3 combination from the toolbox for dealing with the unusably flat third-partial F. Finding the right compromise for all the settings will just leave too many holes. For many genres, it doesn't matter as much. Band music for which sousaphones are used are usually written in flat keys so that you are unlikely to be asked to hold a piano low C, for example. And if you are playing in a Dixieland jazz band, you can play whatever notes you want. But in quintets and wind ensembles, you'll face the issue.

One common mod for three-valve sousaphones is to make the first (and maybe third) upper crook a pullable tuning slide, and it is easily reached with the left hand. But reaching slides for pulling on a 20J is not easy. Many performers find the need to adjust slides even on four and five-valved tubas in order to really play in tune with resonant tone. The rotary and front-action piston tubas recommended in this thread make such adjustments easy. One of the big problems with the 2xJ is the ergonomics. And your bell will usually be pointed opposite the bells of other players, making section seating a problem of minimizing hazards. Been there, done that.

I think The Jackson's response to his test of the 20J showed a lot of maturity and good sense, recognizing the grand sound but realizing the short-comings that have to be overcome. Those short-comings might not be as obvious to everyone.

Rick "who has owned a 20J, but could never use it in an ensemble effectively" Denney
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by The Big Ben »

The Jackson wrote: Personally, I also like this sound compared to a "German" horn like the 186 or the Yamaha 641. I think the sound is much more character-like, if that makes any sense.
I think that is the "American" sound fellas talk about.

A King 1241/2341 could be your friend.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by TUbajohn20J »

Rick Denney wrote:
You can do just fine on a three-valve tuba for big portions of the repertoire. But there will come a time when you'll need to hold a low C at piano, and doing that will require pulling the third valve slide to keep it approximately in tune, since lipping it at piano for an extended note will probably undermine its tone. And then that pulled third valve will make the 2-3 combinations flat, and it will remove the 1-3 combination from the toolbox for dealing with the unusably flat third-partial F. Finding the right compromise for all the settings will just leave too many holes. For many genres, it doesn't matter as much. Band music for which sousaphones are used are usually written in flat keys so that you are unlikely to be asked to hold a piano low C, for example. And if you are playing in a Dixieland jazz band, you can play whatever notes you want. But in quintets and wind ensembles, you'll face the issue.

One common mod for three-valve sousaphones is to make the first (and maybe third) upper crook a pullable tuning slide, and it is easily reached with the left hand. But reaching slides for pulling on a 20J is not easy. Many performers find the need to adjust slides even on four and five-valved tubas in order to really play in tune with resonant tone. The rotary and front-action piston tubas recommended in this thread make such adjustments easy. One of the big problems with the 2xJ is the ergonomics. And your bell will usually be pointed opposite the bells of other players, making section seating a problem of minimizing hazards. Been there, done that.

Rick "who has owned a 20J, but could never use it in an ensemble effectively" Denney
Very well put. That's why I think Conn intented for the 20J not to be an orchestral horn, but more for recording studio purposes and jazz bands. The 20J is a "you come to it. not bring it with you type horn"
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by The Jackson »

Yeah, I was very surprised when the gentleman told me that he used the 20J as his main orchestra horn.

Well, after talking with my teacher as well as some other people, things are looking good for me on trying out that King CC at Baltimore Brass.

In the meantime, my teacher has VERY GRACIOUSLY offered to let me borrow his smaller horn (Yamaha 661) for practice. Lucky, I am, to have such a great person in my life.
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by imperialbari »

Scooby Tuba wrote:
TUbajohn20J wrote: That's why I think Conn intented for the 20J not to be an orchestral horn, but more for recording studio purposes and jazz bands.
The 2xJ horns are meant to sit in the back of a concert band. Any other use is coincidental...
Too bad you didn't tell this to Conn back in 1934:
1934 Conn 20J page.jpg
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Re: Chance at a 20J

Post by Rick Denney »

the elephant wrote:
Doc wrote:
the elephant wrote:If your orchestra is populated with gibbons, a 20J would be a gorilla.
Funny...coming from an elephant.
My comment, in terms edited for consumption by our TubeNet representatives of the law enforcement community:

If your orchestra is populated with 45 ACP, a 20J would be a 16" battleship shell. 8)
Naw. That's the Rudy 6/4, with the understanding that that shell must be laser-guided and able to destroy a small target even if it doesn't explode.

The 2xJ is a blunderbuss--a .50 elephant gun (no relation to present company) with the flared barrel end. The only people who look right in association with either have well-sculpted handlebar mustaches.

Rick "thinking that grenade launcher carried by The Terminator seems about right, too" Denney
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