Question for the mechanics

[tubashaman2]

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[The Big Ben]

Do you still work at Discount Tire and, if so, don't they do this sort of repair there?

I think you need a special tool to compress the spring when changing front struts and it would be a Bad Idea to try it without the special tool. However, I think some auto parts dealers and some rent-it shops will rent one to you for a reasonable by-the-day charge. If you are at all mechanically inclined, you could do this one yourself to save some $$$.

[tubashaman2]

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[Rochester2013]

I think it cost me less than $400 to get mine done.

I bought the parts off of the internet and attempted to make the fix myself. That didn't happen and took it to a repair shop down the street (parents have been dealing with them for years) and they did it for me, relatively cheap.

I am not sure if this is the normal price or if it was because of my "connections" and the fact that I bought the parts myself, but that is what I paid.

[tubashaman2]

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[Todd S. Malicoate]

$600 sounds about right, but the good news is that this is not such a bad do-it-yourself job. With a Chilton or Haynes manual, basic tools, and a rented Macpherson strut compressor, you can do this job on your own. Here's walk-in prices and part numbers from NAPA:

Front struts (Regal Ride - 2 year warranty) 201956 (left) and 201955 (right) - $79.99 each.
Strut mounts (Altrom - 1 year warranty) 104-2456 - $62.89 each.
Total for parts - $285.76 plus tax. Ask the counterman if that's the best price he can give you (sometimes they are willing to use a special "garage price" account if you just ask). These parts are the "value line" and the least expensive offered by NAPA, but also a good quality product. I don't see any reason to spend extra for the premium lines on a 17 year old vehicle.

You might not even need strut mounts - you can't really tell until you take the struts out and inspect the upper mounts for damage or wear. Most mechanics do recommend that you go ahead and replace them, though, as they aren't that much more expensive and re-using them is a crap shoot.

You will also need to take the car to a front end shop to have it aligned very soon after replacing the front struts. Factor in the cost of that, as well.

Rochester2013 was very fortunate...most shops won't just "put on the parts" that you bring in. Making a bit of profit on the parts that the shop buys from the parts store is part of their business equation, and it gives them the ability to choose what parts they get in order to stand behind them if they fail.

[Rochester2013]

Rochester2013

Did you have all 4 struts replaced or just 2?

I had just the front ones replaced.

[tubashaman2]

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[tubashaman2]

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[Rochester2013]

I am pretty sure Auto Zone has a free loaner tool program (but a deposit is required).

You might want to just call to see if they have the tool you need, can't hurt.

[Todd S. Malicoate]

NAPA would most likely have a Haynes manual for a 92 Camry in stock. I like the Haynes a little better (more pictures and better specific info) than the Chilton, anyway.

Most NAPA stores also have a rental tool program. In the one I work in, you pay a deposit and get it all back when you return the tool. Call ahead and confirm that they have a MacPherson strut compressor available for deposit/return.

Your confusion about the price quoted stems from a lack of understanding. Repair shops aren't going to quote you the same price for a part that you could buy it for yourself. They quote a "list" price which reflects a markup for them. The list price is usually 20-30% more than your cost if you buy it yourself.

You will only need under the hood to remove the upper strut nut on each side. A jack and two jackstands is fine for supporting the car while you do the work. You'll need to remove the front tires, the mounting bracket for the brake hose (and the ABS sensor if so equipped), and the stabilizer nut about midway down the strut assembly. After this, remove the bolts on the lower side of the strut which attach it to the suspension and frame. You can now compress the spring, remove the upper nut, and disassemble the strut assembly. Lay out the parts in order as you pull them off and re-assembly will be a snap. Consult your Haynes manual for the proper torque value for the various nuts...this is very important information and will be on the front page of the chapter on suspension. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can put down a deposit for a good one at NAPA as well (get the kind that clicks when you reach the desired torque).

The only really tricky part is the MacPherson strut spring compressor...it can actually be dangerous if you don't get the clamps securely on the spring before applying pressure. Read instructions carefully and don't overdo the compression...just enough to get the top of the strut swung away so you can disassemble it.

[tubashaman2]

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[Todd S. Malicoate]

I don't know...I've done at least a dozen of these without any problem, and I'm certainly no professional mechanic. The trick, as I pointed out earlier, is to use the equipment exactly as intended and not overdo the compression. Would you quit driving because you know someone who died in a car accident?

Like all "bigger" jobs, it's always good advice to not attempt your first such repair on something you intend to drive, at least not without experienced help. Perhaps you have a friend at school who has done this procedure (MacPherson strut compressor) before and can help you out with that part of the job? The rest really is quite easy.

[tubashaman2]

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[Todd S. Malicoate]

Don't let the brake thing confuse you. On Camrys, there are brackets for the front brake hoses attched to the strut assemblies that need to be removed before you can remove the struts, that's all. You don't even have to disconnect the brake hoses from the calipers, just those brackets.

[steve_decker]

Thanks Todd.

The compressor and the whole brake thing just seem confusing to me, I will see who I know that could help but it doesn't look promising

Due to the safety hazard involved in compressing the spring, I always advise people to get knowledgable help or pay someone to do the job if they are at all uncomfortable. It seems as though, with this particular repair, "accidents" happen most often to those that are fairly nervous about the job and/or are doing the job for the first time. Not intended to dissuade you but the type of spring compressors that are available through rental at Napa or AutoZone are the least safe and most of us who have earned a living fixing cars will not use that type at all.

If you want to make this a DIY job, just pull the complete assembly then pay a shop $50 to compress the springs and swap out the struts for you. This simplifies the job for you and leaves the more technical portion to folks who've done it before.

Check and see if the school you attend has an automotive program. If they do, get in touch with them. Many schools will work on students and faculty vehicles for very low $$$. You may also want to check with a local community or technical college for the same.

No matter which route you go, as Todd mentioned, you'll still need an alignment once the job is done.

[Tubaryan12]

If you want to make this a DIY job, just pull the complete assembly then pay a shop $50 to compress the springs and swap out the struts for you. This simplifies the job for you and leaves the more technical portion to folks who've done it before.

This is a great suggestion.

[tubashaman2]

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[steve_decker]

The problem is the shop that did it last time charged $630 total, over $200 for labor, and I don't have that kind of money.

And Todd, an autoparts salesman, also stated it is rare for a shop to let you use your own products you bring in for them to install.

And ACU has no shop/automotive program whatsoever

As far as shops letting you bring your own parts in, that is greatly dependant on the shop. Some do, some don't; there's only one way to find out. However, many shops will provide the service I suggested (which, btw, is completely different than what Todd was commenting on). Taking Todd's word, or mine, will get you no closer to getting the job done though. You need to call around and see what options are available specifically to you.

Having only minimal familiarity with Texas geography, I spent about 3 minutes with a Yahoo search and found that Texas State Technical College @ Sweetwater DOES have an automotive program. Would I typically drive from Abilene to Sweetwater to have someone repair my car? No, but they may be able to offer the solution you're looking for, which is worth the 40 mile or so drive.

The only thing any of us can do is offer suggestions. Ultimately, you have to do a bit of research and figure out what is available to you locally.

[Todd S. Malicoate]

Taking Todd's word, or mine, will get you no closer to getting the job done though. You need to call around and see what options are available specifically to you.

Excellent advice. The plural of anecdote does not equal data.