Many happy years with your new friend!
I would not run a snake through the rotors unless instructed to do so by someone that knows what they are doing (for example Joe, Sam, Dan, Roger, Daniel and sometimes Matt is on TUBENET to name some).
I use either plain water or water and a mild detergent to clean my tubas. I happen to like the St. Pete (from the samples that I have played), but I understand that you should take extra care with this type of tuba and it will give you good service for years.
best,
Mark
Cleaning a new horn?
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Mark E. Chachich
- 3 valves

- Posts: 481
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 6:07 pm
- Location: Maryland
Re: Cleaning a new horn?
Last edited by Mark E. Chachich on Mon May 25, 2009 8:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mark E. Chachich, Ph.D.
Principal Tuba, Bel Air Community Band
Life Member, Musicians' Association of Metropolitan Baltimore, A.F.M., Local 40-543
Life Member, ITEA
Principal Tuba, Bel Air Community Band
Life Member, Musicians' Association of Metropolitan Baltimore, A.F.M., Local 40-543
Life Member, ITEA
- Eric B
- 3 valves

- Posts: 345
- Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 1:58 pm
- Location: Idabel, Oklahoma
Re: Cleaning a new horn?
Here is a great resource we should all place in the favorites of our search engine of choice.
http://www.uni.edu/drfun/repair_video/r ... index.html" target="_blank
http://www.uni.edu/drfun/repair_video/r ... index.html" target="_blank
Miraphone CC 186-4U
Weril 980S
Ibanez acoustic guitar
http://www.fbccenter.org" target="_blank" target="_blank
Weril 980S
Ibanez acoustic guitar
http://www.fbccenter.org" target="_blank" target="_blank
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Mark E. Chachich
- 3 valves

- Posts: 481
- Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 6:07 pm
- Location: Maryland
Re: Cleaning a new horn?
Two points about my post:
1.) On TUBENET we have some of the best repair people and people that know tubas, in my opinion all on my list rate as experts. That to me rates a Yow and the statement that we are very fortunate.
2.) At least for me; without the advice of an expert on the level of the people on my list, I would not ram a snake through a rotor that a.) has to turn and b.) has to seal.
best,
Mark
1.) On TUBENET we have some of the best repair people and people that know tubas, in my opinion all on my list rate as experts. That to me rates a Yow and the statement that we are very fortunate.
2.) At least for me; without the advice of an expert on the level of the people on my list, I would not ram a snake through a rotor that a.) has to turn and b.) has to seal.
best,
Mark
Mark E. Chachich, Ph.D.
Principal Tuba, Bel Air Community Band
Life Member, Musicians' Association of Metropolitan Baltimore, A.F.M., Local 40-543
Life Member, ITEA
Principal Tuba, Bel Air Community Band
Life Member, Musicians' Association of Metropolitan Baltimore, A.F.M., Local 40-543
Life Member, ITEA
- iiipopes
- Utility Infielder

- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:10 am
Re: Cleaning a new horn?
Indeed. The recommended method is about once a year or so to have a tech detach the rotor arm from the rotor, pop the rotor out along with its bottom cap, inspect for deposits and wear, clean, reassemble and lubricate accordingly.
Unlike pistons which can stick on just about anything in the casing, rotors are suspended on the rotor bearings in top of the shaft and in the bottom bearing plate, and so ideally never contact the casings. Because of this, with using proper lubrication, they don't stick as often, and when they do, dripping some valve oil through the bore directly on the rotor is usually enough to clear it and keep it going until the next year's servicing.
My 186 is from @1971, and when I got it a couple of years ago the first thing I did was have a tech service it. He said the rotors were in good shape. And this knowing my horn is probably recycled from being an institutional instrument that according to the finish "patina" and number of dents and dings probably wasn't that well cared for during the first decades of its life.
Unlike pistons which can stick on just about anything in the casing, rotors are suspended on the rotor bearings in top of the shaft and in the bottom bearing plate, and so ideally never contact the casings. Because of this, with using proper lubrication, they don't stick as often, and when they do, dripping some valve oil through the bore directly on the rotor is usually enough to clear it and keep it going until the next year's servicing.
My 186 is from @1971, and when I got it a couple of years ago the first thing I did was have a tech service it. He said the rotors were in good shape. And this knowing my horn is probably recycled from being an institutional instrument that according to the finish "patina" and number of dents and dings probably wasn't that well cared for during the first decades of its life.
Jupiter JTU1110
"Real" Conn 36K
"Real" Conn 36K
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pierso20
- 5 valves

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Re: Cleaning a new horn?
Careful when polishing up the horn though. The Nickel plating isn't extremely thick and may come off if you rub too hard or use something that isn't designed for nickel (I'm assuming your is nickel because of the N after 202). This was a problem when I owned a St. Pete.
Glad you finally have a horn!! It's always a good feeling to get ahold of something that we can call our own.
Glad you finally have a horn!! It's always a good feeling to get ahold of something that we can call our own.
Brooke Pierson
Music Educator
Composer
Composer http://www.brookepierson.com" target="_blank" target="_blank" target="_blank
Music Educator
Composer
Composer http://www.brookepierson.com" target="_blank" target="_blank" target="_blank