Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

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WakinAZ
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Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by WakinAZ »

I'm interested in this one, but concerned about the side dent: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT Is this beyond dent magnet work? Would the bottom bow have to be pulled to get it even halfway decent? The bottom bow guard and ferrule being prominently in the mix makes me wonder.

Eric "OK with some dents, but not whole sides out of round" L.
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Dan Schultz
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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by Dan Schultz »

That damage is on the 'outer fringes' of what can be expected from balls and magnets. The best way to fix that is just take the bottom bow and probably the 4th wrap off the horn. It's not a big deal. Once apart, the dents may come out without having to remove the bow guards.

Those GDR tubas are good players but I think the seller is trying to start the bidding a little high... with respect to the damages.
Last edited by Dan Schultz on Sat Nov 28, 2009 11:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by WakinAZ »

Yeah, he's listed it a few times. The rest of the horn looks pretty good though.
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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

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Yes, I did. Thanks for rubbing it in with such detail. :|

Eric "sometimes pulling the trigger too late" L.
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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by TUBAD83 »

The damage can be repaired--the question is are you willing to pay for it after paying 2k for the horn? I think the starting bid is way too high--think very carefully about this one friend.

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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by Dan Schultz »

bloke wrote:This one appears to be nickel plated and more beat-up...The price is (so far) nearly 2/3 lower, though...

http://cgi.ebay.com/German-made-Tuba-4- ... 0411642515
At least the seller is kinda correct. It's not a copy of a Miraphone 186.... it's a copy of the VMI/B & S 101. And.... it's a Sonora... NOT spelled with an 'L'.

I'll have the nickel one, please!
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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by WakinAZ »

Yeah, I saw that one show up just as we were posting on this thread last night. Interesting...

Eric "EZSniper" L.
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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by WakinAZ »

Sniped! This should be fun for a while until that bargain 5/4 rotary turns up. I've been wanting to try one of these since everyone on here raves about them.

Joe, hold that bag for me...
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Epilogue

Post by WakinAZ »

Got the horn today. Very nice, first impression is it's a little better player than the older Mirafone 186 I recently sold; the scale is better, and seems to be A=440. The nickel finish is beyond shot, it seems to be pitted/rough even in areas that would normally not get worn - must've been very thin. Oh well, it was not bought for looks. Came with a Winter type original hard case that will be adequate for home storage and light duty transport after some minor repairs.

Probably made for export, since the receiver seems to be "American" sized - my Miraphone and PT mouthpieces will only go in 2/3 as far as they do on more recent vintage rotary horns. Perhaps the receiver could be swapped to a more standard/Euro size? Repair guys: is there a generic type receiver available from Allied, et al that would fit the leadpipe and accommodate the German shanks better?
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Re: Epilogue

Post by Dan Schultz »

WakinAZ wrote:..... Perhaps the receiver could be swapped to a more standard/Euro size? Repair guys: is there a generic type receiver available from Allied, et al that would fit the leadpipe and accommodate the German shanks better?
Take a close look at the 'receiver' on that horn. If it's like the other 'Sonora', aka GDR tubas... there is no receiver. The mouthpiece inserts directly into the leadpipe and there is a ferrule that reinforces the end of the pipe. It should take a 'regular' shank tuba mouthpiece.
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Re: Repair question on B&S/VMI tuba

Post by WakinAZ »

That would explain it. "Regular" like a Bach shank? My Bach 18 did go in a bit further.

The trusty TU-33 seems secure enough, just odd to see it sticking out a little more. I'll make sure it's twisted in firmly.

Was this standard practice at the time, or just another corner to cut on a budget horn?

Thanks
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