pulling slides on a piston tuba
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pulling slides on a piston tuba
Is it true that, if you pull slides on a piston tuba without pressing the valves down, that you could expand the tubing of the horn? old rumor that i would like to know the truth to.
- Dan Schultz
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Re: pulling slides on a piston tuba
Old wive's tale.... urban legend.... take your pick. No truth to it.clintontuba2 wrote:Is it true that, if you pull slides on a piston tuba without pressing the valves down, that you could expand the tubing of the horn? old rumor that i would like to know the truth to.
Dan Schultz
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Re: pulling slides on a piston tuba
Actually not, since you pull the slide a vacuum creates. If something occurs, the tube collapses. Fully thinkable, if you pull a slide fast enough, the vacuum could be deep enough to collapse the tube. Depending on how long the slide is and how tight the system is.clintontuba2 wrote:Is it true that, if you pull slides on a piston tuba without pressing the valves down, that you could expand the tubing of the horn? old rumor that i would like to know the truth to.
I've also heard about that and don't move a slide without depressing the appropriate valve, just to avoid any risk. However, I've never seen or heard it happens to anybody, so I agree with TubaTinker, it's most likely a rumor only.
By the way, why only on piston tubas? Rotary systems are well as tight as pistons.
There is another thing which concerns me more. The vacuum creates an airstream through the sealing parts of the valve. If particles are to come loose they will do it then. That could create future block.
Melton/Meinl Weston 200 Spezial
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Are you saying that because the vacuum pulls out the lubricant that the valve will wear more because of lack of lubricant? I'm not buying it. The valves would stick first.musician wrote:While it will take several years, things do get a little looser if care is not taken to release the pressures. Piston valves use oil and then the water vapor to ride on in the valve casing. Continually pulling and not letting off the pressure will just make the valve a little looser over time.
On the original subject, let's do a little arithmetic. Let's say (since I'm too lazy to look it up), that the length of a first-valve slide is 20 inches with the slide all the way in, and let's say that the slide is 8 inches long. When the slide is at the point of falling out, the branch will be 36 inches in total length (20 + 2*8). If we take the amount of air held by that branch, and suddenly ram the slide home, we are compressing 36 inches of tubing worth of air into 20 inches of tubing. Since we started with air at atmospheric pressure, we end up with air at (36/20=) 1.8 times atmospheric pressure. Since the atmosphere pushes into the tube, it's only the .8 part that actually pushes on the tubing wall. That's 11 psi that the pipe has to resist (.8 times 14.7 psi, which is one atmosphere). (This calculation works the same way in vacuum, but the maximum possible vacuum is only 15 psi pushing on the tubing, which is 1 atmosphere outside the tube minus 0 atmospheres inside the tube.)
So, what's the yield pressure of the tube? Let's assume a .75" pipe, with a .02" wall thickness, made of brass that has a yield strength of 18,000 psi. The yield pressure is P = (2*S*T)/(O.D.-2*T), where S is the yield strength (in psi), T is the wall thickness and OD is outside diameter, both in inches. The yield pressure is therefore a little over 1000 psi.
1000 is a whole lot bigger than 11. "MYTH BUSTED!"
But it's useful to vent the valves anyway, because if you don't, you'll be producing percussion effects not written in the music when the pressure or vacuum is released.
(I'm intrigued by the trombone slide myth. If the slide is 36" long, it will have 72 inches of tubing in first position, and 132 inches of tubing in 7th (again just eyeballing it). Thus, 132/72 is 1.83 times atmospheric pressure, so the example is just like the one I chose above. But the tubing is smaller in diameter, making it stronger against pressure. I figure .02"-wall tubing of .5" in diameter will have a yield pressure of 1560 psi. That's a pretty darn good seal for a little light oil on the socks!)
(I'm also curious about Joe's claim that tubing that weak would crush if you tried to hold it. What wall thickness would correspond to 11 psi? The answer is 0.00023 inches, or about one-fourth the thickness of aluminum foil. Joe is right.)
Rick "who applied, but was rejected, for a job at Mythbusters" Denney
Last edited by Rick Denney on Fri Dec 10, 2004 2:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Dan Schultz
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I heard pulling your slides can cause blindness, too!MellowSmokeMan wrote:I heard valve pulling causes cancer.
Dan Schultz
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For this reason:jacobg wrote:So why do people get their valves vented, then?
Just to avoid the noise that can occur when you pull a slide then depress the valve.Rick Denney wrote:But it's useful to vent the valves anyway, because if you don't, you'll be producing percussion effects not written in the music when the pressure or vacuum is released.
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Funny.... the Miraphone 184 CC I have has all four valves vented. I don't understand why the former owner had it done because the first slide is the only one that is easy to get to. I'm not a slide-puller, anyway.schlepporello wrote:The "New Thing" syndrome?jacobg wrote:So why do people get their valves vented, then?
Dan Schultz
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Current 'stable'... Rudolf Meinl 5/4, Marzan (by Willson) euph, King 2341, Alphorn, and other strange stuff.
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i dont normally pull my slides to tune, i pull them to drain the water from the horn. I play a king 2341, which is a great horn. but the best way to drain the water is to just empty it via the tubing for each corresponding valve, it was frustrating at first, but once i got the hang of it, there are no problems.
to empty water from the 4th valve, you actually have to take the 4th valve slide out, and rotate the horn from the upright position counter-clockwise....took me a few weeks to figure it out. seems like trouble but it is worth it for this horn.
to empty water from the 4th valve, you actually have to take the 4th valve slide out, and rotate the horn from the upright position counter-clockwise....took me a few weeks to figure it out. seems like trouble but it is worth it for this horn.
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It is quite unlikely that any human could muster 10% of the PSI of vacuum needed to modify the shape of a slide.
I've been told that the most likely source of the rumor about slide-pulling causing damage if one didn't first depress the valve, has been salespersons who had instruments with no compression, and didn't want the prospective buyer to discover this. Hence, the warnings to never pull a slide without pressing the corresponding valve first have persisted. By the way, there are a lot of tubas out there that play OK, that have barely-perceptible compression at all. There are even some new tubas that fall into that category.
I've been told that the most likely source of the rumor about slide-pulling causing damage if one didn't first depress the valve, has been salespersons who had instruments with no compression, and didn't want the prospective buyer to discover this. Hence, the warnings to never pull a slide without pressing the corresponding valve first have persisted. By the way, there are a lot of tubas out there that play OK, that have barely-perceptible compression at all. There are even some new tubas that fall into that category.
Lee A. Stofer, Jr.
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Every CC Miraphone I've seen from the 70's and earlier had vented valves. It may be true of newer ones, too, but I haven't looked. BBb's didn't have vents. Most folks thought they were for applying oil.TubaTinker wrote:Funny.... the Miraphone 184 CC I have has all four valves vented. I don't understand why the former owner had it done because the first slide is the only one that is easy to get to. I'm not a slide-puller, anyway.
It may be because pros tend to pull and dump to remove water, rather than making the noise of blowing through water keys. It's a lot easier to pull and dump if you don't have to worry about holding the valve button down. The only reason I've not done it on my Holton is that it's easy to hold open the (poorly placed) water key when pulling and dumping the slides.
Rick "who vented the valves on his Yamaha 621 just for this reason" Denney
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The Yorkbrunner traps the most water of any horn I've played. I all eight slide and the spin once counter-clockwise to get all the spit out. I have never dropped a slide, but it is a careful procedure to avoid percussion sounds that aren't in the piece. So far, so good, but if my guitar playing carpel tunnel doesn't get better, I can see myself messing it up some day. Somebody needs to invent a device that evaporates the water as one plays.
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I had fun with this in a recent performance of Musical Joke. During the tacet movement I did some minor acrobatics emptying the horn, to audible giggles in the audience. I also had an audience member approach me after a concert once, asking why I spun the horn in the air that way.....and my first answer was "to make the audience ask questions" before I explained the water thing. I have a horn that won't empty unless I go through the "steering wheel routine" with it.Bryan wrote:. Many horn players seem to have made this almost an art form
.....and, after you've done it several thousand times, it can start to resemble baton twirling.
MA
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For some reason this happened for the first time in my 40 years of horn (various) playing last Sunday. I warmed up my Cerveny, then had to stand outside in 45 degree weather for 5 minutes, then came back inside to play almost immediatly. I did a quick finger roll to warm the hand back up and was rewarded with what sounded like 4 rapid-fire farts.Bryan wrote:I had always assumed that the vented valves in mirafones were as much to negate popping noise resulting from pressure change (warm air in the valve tuning cooling) as anything else. Bryan



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