A Yamaha Eb YEB-321 with the 5th valve used to be available and was called, I believe, the YEB-381 or somesuch. It was a GREAT horn but didn't sell that well from what I've been told. A bunch were circulating back in the early 90's as I recall. I tried a couple of them and they were both wonderful. If enough of us caused a fuss, I'll bet we could get a run of the 5th valve kits done by Yamaha.
To set up a YEP-321 with this configuration is a cool idea and I guessed the 381 was the inspiration because it's the same set-up.
I have a YEP-321 with the optional 5th. I did have some problems with the slide wear allowing it to fall out so I took the assembly apart and moved it permanently to the right yard of the fourth tubing. No new parts, except a custom lever. Now it’s always there.
This is an exceptional idea to bring back – what a boon for the tuba world (as have been the removable valves for single trigger tenor and bass bones)! I wouldn’t – as has been suggested – put this valve on the third valve; there are some other combinations that would be eliminated from the instrument, as well as making a very vulnerable part!
Having this available on these 4v non-comps would be a great cost saver especially for tubists doubling. With a (modified) Bobo TT mouthpiece I have a great practice tool and an instrument well suited to French music, or for tubists to cover tenor tuba parts. And this valve system is easy for tubists to learn and use quickly.
Principal Tuba, Opera Cleveland Principal Tuba, Firelands Symphony Orchestra http://www.jcsherman.net
The Yamaha instrument that I used frequently with a dependent 5th had been cleverly modified to have the valve operated with the right thumb. I wonder if the "FOF" (friend of Ferguson) would consider this as well.
Great idea! Put me on the list to "notify when available".
In an ideal world I'd like an independent short major 3rd that replaces the main tuning slide... in silver.
I haven't given a lot of thought to dependent valves, long whole-step vs. long half-step.... If it were independent my preference would be short major 3rd, long whole, then long half. I'll work thru all the dependent fingerings (when I have time) to see if that changes my preferences.
Does it still fit in the Yamaha case without removing the 5th valve?
There are many potential buyers (I am one), with a high price you will only sell to an elite few, with a low price you can sell to the masses.
And, put one of those long 3rd slides into my shopping cart.
Here are some pics of the old Yamaha version. The Ferguson version has fewer bends, it should be less stuffy. Fewer bends and larger radii (open wrap) are always better.
Not to abscond with the thread, but can someone tell me why the 4th slide on my King 2280 is so incredibly long? I've given up trying to empty it during concerts because of the contortions I have to go through to get it in and out. It must be nearly a foot long! Why? It doesn't need, for me anyway, to be pulled out anywhere near that much to get 4+ notes in tune. Or maybe it does and I'm just so accustomed to lipping the pitches that I haven't realized I could do it differently. But then the slide would run into my thigh....
You can pull it far enough to get the Eb with 4 only which gives you a D with 14, Db 234, C134, B1234. It is then possible to have the fully chromatic scale from the pedal E up by using the 3rd valve kicker for E and F just below the staff. I have to use my TT MP to play that low though.
I am fortunate to have a great job that feeds my family well, but music feeds my soul.
MaryAnn wrote:Not to abscond with the thread, but can someone tell me why the 4th slide on my King 2280 is so incredibly long? I've given up trying to empty it during concerts because of the contortions I have to go through to get it in and out. It must be nearly a foot long! Why? It doesn't need, for me anyway, to be pulled out anywhere near that much to get 4+ notes in tune. Or maybe it does and I'm just so accustomed to lipping the pitches that I haven't realized I could do it differently. But then the slide would run into my thigh....
MA
Enlightenment may be found [url=http://www.dwerden.com/talk/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=19&threadid=2617]here[/l].
____________________
Don't take legal advice from a lawyer on the Internet. I'm a lawyer but I'm not your lawyer.
All the arguments on that thread about the 2280 being a mid-level/non-professional instrument are hogwash; it's like claiming a 4-valve Alex isn't professional because it doesn't have a 5th valve. And I've heard 2280's in the Cleveland Orchestra sounding wonderful... huge and wonderful... for years and years.
"dkstone" said it well, but the King is played much like a 3-valve trumpet, third-valve tuning and all. The fourth comes into play Eb and down. It can also be played more conventionally, giving you back some trills and what; but in the designed tuning, the Low C is the most open on the market.
Put me down for wanting those 5th valves out there, and you can skip the 2280 ; )
J.c.S.
Principal Tuba, Opera Cleveland Principal Tuba, Firelands Symphony Orchestra http://www.jcsherman.net
I've always wondered why the 2280 didn't have the kicker on the 4th slide, even though I suspect it would stop at C. But now it makes sense!
How does the kicker work? I've always wanted one on my 3 valve Amati to avoid actually handling the slide with my left hand while playing and holding the instrument with the left!
tbn.al wrote:I have to use my TT MP to play that low though.
Nothing wrong with that! Do you mean your shaved 30E or an actual tenor tuba mouthpiece?
HI- Yamaha 321 euphs are nice instruments, but just get a Schiller Elite Comp Euph and/or a W. Nirschl Euph--better instruments and cheaper! Welcome to the 21st Century. mark