A Question for you with high mileage cars

[iiipopes]

Re: buying used. Like anything else, have it checked out first by a qualified mechanic to make sure there are no hidden high-$$ repairs waiting to happen. Steve obviously knows what to look for in a used car. I also consider that there are a lot of used cars out there worth the money, but take careful screening to locate.

I once was considering a particular used Chrysler convertible when they were so popular some decades ago. But, after a tell-tale wobble during test-driving it, and seeing the paint popped off the rear part of the rocker panel where it joins the rear fender when you opened the door, it was obvious it had been in a rather serious collision and rebuilt, which was never mentioned when I asked. So I passed, even though it was a "great" deal $$-wise.

After a couple of the anecdotes related above, it still amazes me how a lot of folks do not understand the necessity of and do not budget for necessary routine maintenance and inevitable repairs. Whether a Yugo or Rolls, it's a machine that something will wear out or break occasionally, and the relative reputation as well as the relative cost of parts and labor should be a factor going in with the overall budget.

And for a daily driver, I also look for automobiles with "regular" sized tires and wheels to lessen the cost of tires, which can be a difference of up to $100/tire for a small difference in wheel size, and check with my insurance agent for claims history on the particular model and relative coverage premium range before I purchase a car as well. It doesn't hurt to check the crash safety ratings as well, and I have benefitted from that one, having been rear-ended more than once.

[Chen]

For newer cars, take it to dealer every 5000 miles. Know which dealer recommended services are BS and which ones are not.

[Rick Denney]

It seems like the biggest difference between people with high mileage vehicles and those without is a willingness to spend $$$ for maintenance and repairs. Many people balk at laying out any cash for repairs and decide their 60k-100k+ mile vehicle is nickle and diming them and needs replacement. Seemingly, these are the same folks that assume a $300/mo car payment is the norm. On the other hand, folks with high mileage vehicles recognize that a couple hundred bucks for a given repair is better than being strapped to a car note.
...
As far as "real" advice (other than what's already been mentioned)... keep up on fuel filter replacement. As a mechanic, I made a lot of money replacing fuel pumps that likely wouldn't have failed with proper fuel filter replacement. I change mine ever 2 years or 30k miles and have never replaced a fuel pump in my own vehicles.

For me, a car that needs frequent repair needs replacing, not because of the cost, but because of the difficulty of dealing with the repair shop. On days when I go to the office, I leave the house at 6AM, and arrive back home at 6:30 PM (if I get away on time). Getting a repair done therefore requires a complicated process of leaving the vehicle at the shop the night before, putting the key in the slot, and trying to describe the problem over the phone.

Also, if a car is prone to leaving me stuck in a parking garage in downtown Baltimore, it's going on Craig's List. I have no support system there. It's a 125-mile drive from my wife's office to mine. We need reliable cars.

That said, my car has 115K on it, and hers has 140K. We do run the wheels off them.

On the fuel filter, recognize that most cars these days mount the pump in the tank, and have a strainer to protect the pump. The fuel filter is downstream of the pump, and is designed to protect the fuel injection system. Pump failures are much rarer than they once were.

Rick "who has never sold or traded a car with less than 100K miles" Denney

[SRanney]

That said, my car has 115K on it, and hers has 140K. We do run the wheels off them.

How does one define "high mileage?" I would consider anything >150,000 - 200,000 miles as high mileage. Until a car hits 150,000 miles, I'd consider it a (relatively) low mileage car. Like many here, I tend to own cars until they can't run any more, and 150,000 miles just doesn't seem that "old" to me.

Would I buy anything with >150,000 miles? Nope. Would I drive something with >150,000 miles? Yup.

Steven "planning on seeing his Jeep roll through 200,000 miles with no problem" Ranney

[steve_decker]

On the fuel filter, recognize that most cars these days mount the pump in the tank, and have a strainer to protect the pump. The fuel filter is downstream of the pump, and is designed to protect the fuel injection system. Pump failures are much rarer than they once were.

Rick "who has never sold or traded a car with less than 100K miles" Denney

While this may be true, a plugged fuel filter will make that pump work much harder than necessary which shortens its life.

[steve_decker]

I'd agree with Mr. Ranney. My target mileage for (just about all) cars that I buy is 90,000 miles. It seems that - at that point - the price drops to about 1/3 the new price while the functionality and appearance (with a great deal of care on the part of the buyer, obviously) are still near 100%.

BINGO! Folks get real jumpy when the odometer nears 100k. Trade-in value is shockingly low so good deals can usually be found near the 90k mileage mark.

[Rick Denney]

I'd agree with Mr. Ranney. My target mileage for (just about all) cars that I buy is 90,000 miles. It seems that - at that point - the price drops to about 1/3 the new price while the functionality and appearance (with a great deal of care on the part of the buyer, obviously) are still near 100%.

BINGO! Folks get real jumpy when the odometer nears 100k. Trade-in value is shockingly low so good deals can usually be found near the 90k mileage mark.

Whether buying a car with that mileage is wise or not depends on one's projected usage beyond that point. Bloke has made Blokian deals and built Blokian relationships, trading out car-repair services for other services, and doing a lot of work himself. He also has flexibilities a lot of people don't have, including working at home most of the time and having several cars available for when he needs to go somewhere. Not everyone has access to such arrangements. A person who has a long commute (such as me--I would no sooner live in Baltimore than Bloke would live in Memphis, plus, my wife's commute is almost as long and in the opposite direction) and who does not have the option to work at home any time they need to might face a different set of constraints, and reliability for them might not be based on the life-cycle costs of ownership, but rather on the probability that on any given day the vehicle just works without issue. So, Bloke and I face different inputs to that calculation even though both of us have similar capabilities when it comes to maintaining our own vehicles.

We keep backup vehicles just because of the need for that daily reliability--and those are the vehicle we bought cheaply with over 100,000 miles on them. They are fine as backup vehicles, but driven daily would be presenting issues needing repair on frequent intervals. Even the vehicles we bought with low mileage have required maintenance and repair at frequent enough intervals to need those backup vehicles, but not as frequently or as expensively as would be the case with high-mileage vehicles. And then there is the issue of not usually knowing a high-mileage used car's history.

The point is to make sensible decisions based on constraints and requirements (and NOT on new car lust), not to prescribe one solution for all problems.

Rick "a former professional mechanic" Denney

[Chuck Jackson]

First off, I want to Thank everyone who replied with suggestions. Here are the steps I have taken to ensure that my 2005 Hyundai Elantra lives a long and fruitful life:

1. I read everything I could find about the reliability of this model. I found that it is a well made, safe, and has a high probability of long life with a few things to watch out for, namely keeping the transmission serviced.

2. I researched and found a highly recommended garage in town called "Hyundais Only" that employs 3 native Koreans who are factory trained service guys.

3. I took my car in and had the 30K service done (15K late, mea culpa), brakes replaced, and a new horn for $500.00, a savings of over $250 at the dealership where I bought it. I paid cash, which in today's economy is as good as money. I got a 10% break on the price.

4. I asked them to give me their advice for getting the maximum amount of mileage out of the car. They were adamant that I should follow the suggested service as outlined in the owners manual, change the oil every 5K and DO NOT USE SYNTHETICS (he was very adamant about this), watch the fuel filters, and have the timing belt replaced every 60K miles.

5. I asked about premium fuel. They said if I could put up with a spark knock to use mid-grade, but Premium would be better in the long run for the injectors and the fuel pump (they don't sell gas, so they had no reason to push this issue).

I am very happy with the experience and happy with the car. It gets 30 MPG on the highway (most of my driving), is quiet in the interior on the road, and comfortable for my 6'2", 200 lb frame. The only odd thing was that the mechanic suggested keeping the tires inflated to 40 psi.

Thanks for all your input.

Chuck

[steve_decker]

Chuck- it sounds as though you found a good place to service your car. I only raised my eyebrows at two of his comments...

1. Premium fuel- if your car doesn't call for it then it (likely) doesn't need it. Higher octane fuel is really only needed on higher compression engines or those with engine timing advanced (for fuel economy) to a point that spark knock is prevalent with lower octane fuel. If you don't experience spark knock with 87 or 89 octane, then you would just be wasting your money.

2. 40psi on tires? Don't do it! Remember that stick Ford/Firestone issue about 10 years ago? Just follow Hyundai's spec for your car and you'll be fine. Higher pressure may increase your fuel economy marginally but will bring on a host of other issues.

[Chuck Jackson]

Thansk Steve!!! It was a good experience.

If you don't experience spark knock with 87 or 89 octane, then you would just be wasting your money.

REAL BAD spark knock with anything but Premium. Go figure, and the mileage is much better with the premium. I average @ 30 mpg with premium and 27 mpg without. I can swallow the extra couple of bucks it takes to fill it up.

Chuck"still weirded out about the tires, but the car feels better at that PSI"Jackson

[djwesp]

4. I asked them to give me their advice for getting the maximum amount of mileage out of the car. They were adamant that I should follow the suggested service as outlined in the owners manual, change the oil every 5K and DO NOT USE SYNTHETICS (he was very adamant about this), watch the fuel filters, and have the timing belt replaced every 60K miles.

Interesting. The Kent Dobbs dealership, which also employs immigrated Koreans, in Springdale, Arkansas said the first thing I should do IS switch to synthetics.

Not that I know which advice is the best advice, just funny to hear people working for the same company, trained in the same place to give two very different adamant answers. (sounds like a college!)

[Todd S. Malicoate]

4. I asked them to give me their advice for getting the maximum amount of mileage out of the car. They were adamant that I should follow the suggested service as outlined in the owners manual, change the oil every 5K and DO NOT USE SYNTHETICS (he was very adamant about this), watch the fuel filters, and have the timing belt replaced every 60K miles.

Interesting. The Kent Dobbs dealership, which also employs immigrated Koreans, in Springdale, Arkansas said the first thing I should do IS switch to synthetics.

Not that I know which advice is the best advice, just funny to hear people working for the same company, trained in the same place to give two very different adamant answers. (sounds like a college!)

If you change the oil every 5K anyway, it's not at all cost effective to use synthetics. The only advantage they provide is resistant to breakdown and sludge (longevity). Spending all the extra for them make no sense if you're just going to dump them every 5K.

[CJ Krause]

toyodas are ugly IMO.

if you go to http://www.toptiergas.com" target="_blank" target="_blank" target="_blank and look up stations and companies in your area, this is better than putting in premium
on my supercharged HHR i have to use premium
but when i wasnt supercharged i didnt get any better gas mileage running premium
if i can find stations w no ethanol in the gas i buy there. i get 5 more MPG in town and 3 on the Hwy w no ethanol in the gas

40 in the tires is too much unless like said it is recommended
i run 32 on my HHR for daily driving

i had an el camino that had 250,000 when i sold it. a Chevy G20 van with a 4.3 just at 200,000 when i sold it
i have a 102,000 on my HHR 2.2 that i supercharged a year ago Sept 27 and i am running 14 to 16 lbs of boost on it
auto 4T45 tranny that is doing great

the ecotec in my HHR is as good as any. Daughters balt is great as well w the same engine.
i use mobil one and get it at Wal Mart for $21 for 5 quarts in daughter's balt and my hhr and go till % reading is 0 to 2 on the DIC.
I use Seafoam in the next tank of gas and use 8 oz in the oil at oil change. if i use the % on the GMs on the DIC it goes around 7000 miles. sometimes a lil less
Seafoam works great on keeping the injectors clean and does great w water and bad things in the gas when you get a bad batch.
been using SeaFoam since i was 14 and i am 57 now. it is the only fuel additive i use and use it in anything i own that uses fuel, whether 2 or 4 cycle or diesel