A question that I cannot seem to remember the answer to: I want to begin the upgrade process to my factory stereo system in my Silverado and will be getting a better deck soon (already did the front door speakers) and then would possibly like to add a small sub box under the rear seat. I have a brand new 12" replacement sub that I bought as a spare to my PA system years ago. Would this work in a car audio system? I can get a single 12" unloaded box pretty inexpensively and just thought that since I have the spare speaker not being used that I might be able to put it to use and save a couple of bucks that way. However, if its going to sound bad and be a waste then I'll just buy a loaded box instead.
The biggest differences that I can find reading the spec sheets is that the PA speaker is 8 ohm vs. 4 ohm that most car speakers seem to be and the sensitivity ratings are much higher than those of the car speakers.
Thanks
Car audio
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- iiipopes
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Re: Car audio
It's not necessarily the impedance, since most car audio amplifiers are made to withstand all sorts of impedance mismatches. The speaker will "work" with most commercial car stereo amplifiers. The problems will be with the resonance and frequency response. Commercial PA subs are usually made to fall off below 50Hz in order to limit cone excursion and warranty repairs. This may or may not be desireable with the type of music you wish to listen to on the road.
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- Casey Tucker
- 3 valves
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Re: Car audio
Hi,
What year is the Silverado? I own a '04 Trailblazer, and while I'm satisfied with the truck itself, I have had MULTIPLE problems with it recently and in the past SPECIFICALLY concerning the stereo/computer. If your truck was built before Chevy's/GM's use of **advanced** computer system (i.e. checks oil, range, psi, mpg, etc.) you might want to proceed with caution when upgrade the head unit. I decided to change out the head unit about two months after purchase (aprox. 1 yr. ago) and was nearly impossible to install by my father (ex-electrician) and myself (novice tinkerer). We eventually shelled out the cash to Best Buy to install it. They did a great job cosmetically hiding wires even all the way to back to my sub. Fast forward 4-5 months...
It was towards the end of a TEXAS summer (Houston heat/humidity is nuts...) and the sub unit would work unless I had the key in the ignition for around 5-10 seconds before actually starting the car. I had to do this for about a month and then it never happened again. Fast forward to now. My truck suddenly wouldn't start. No noises whatsoever... I played around with the battery (had it charged, changed, still nothing). Purchased a starter and that wasn't it. I had it towed to the local dealership and after they "worked" on it for 2-3 days they said, and I quote, "We don't really know what's wrong with it but we found that if you pop off the trim and the bezel, it starts right up". This made me think they didn't even pull it into the garage and they still charged me $155 on top of the tow fee. This worked for about 4 days then it wouldn't start. After playing around with it with my dad, we removed the stereo and found that if we removed the positive lead on the battery and reattached it, the truck would 'reset' and start right up. This worked for about a week then wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealership AGAIN, rented a car, RETURNED THE RENTAL, and forced them into giving me a loaner (which I'm STILL driving). I got a call from the this morning telling me that after running a lot of electrical and computer tests everything pointed towards a busted PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and that after they replaced it that my truck was ready... TO THE TUNE OF $800! ON TOP OF EVERYTHING ELSE!! They said that there was some sort of connection but I'm not so sure...
Like I said, PROCEED WITH CAUTION.
-CT
What year is the Silverado? I own a '04 Trailblazer, and while I'm satisfied with the truck itself, I have had MULTIPLE problems with it recently and in the past SPECIFICALLY concerning the stereo/computer. If your truck was built before Chevy's/GM's use of **advanced** computer system (i.e. checks oil, range, psi, mpg, etc.) you might want to proceed with caution when upgrade the head unit. I decided to change out the head unit about two months after purchase (aprox. 1 yr. ago) and was nearly impossible to install by my father (ex-electrician) and myself (novice tinkerer). We eventually shelled out the cash to Best Buy to install it. They did a great job cosmetically hiding wires even all the way to back to my sub. Fast forward 4-5 months...
It was towards the end of a TEXAS summer (Houston heat/humidity is nuts...) and the sub unit would work unless I had the key in the ignition for around 5-10 seconds before actually starting the car. I had to do this for about a month and then it never happened again. Fast forward to now. My truck suddenly wouldn't start. No noises whatsoever... I played around with the battery (had it charged, changed, still nothing). Purchased a starter and that wasn't it. I had it towed to the local dealership and after they "worked" on it for 2-3 days they said, and I quote, "We don't really know what's wrong with it but we found that if you pop off the trim and the bezel, it starts right up". This made me think they didn't even pull it into the garage and they still charged me $155 on top of the tow fee. This worked for about 4 days then it wouldn't start. After playing around with it with my dad, we removed the stereo and found that if we removed the positive lead on the battery and reattached it, the truck would 'reset' and start right up. This worked for about a week then wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealership AGAIN, rented a car, RETURNED THE RENTAL, and forced them into giving me a loaner (which I'm STILL driving). I got a call from the this morning telling me that after running a lot of electrical and computer tests everything pointed towards a busted PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and that after they replaced it that my truck was ready... TO THE TUNE OF $800! ON TOP OF EVERYTHING ELSE!! They said that there was some sort of connection but I'm not so sure...
Like I said, PROCEED WITH CAUTION.
-CT