Which solder?

[jajorda2]

So, I'm new at soldering brass components together and need to know which kind of solder to use to reconnect my horn's bugle to the bottom bow. I THINK I saw Dan Oberloh using silver solder to braze bits together but I've seen people using traditional lead solder. Would http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-NS3-N ... B0000CBJGM" target="_blank work?

Also, if anyone has some tubing lying around they'd like to sell....

[Ben]

Google search "lead vs silver solder" turned up thishttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_25374 ... tm#5797224

"Silver solder is substantially stronger and requires more heat (torch) to apply. It's also more expensive."

I personnally use silver solder, its stronger and less toxic. I am also not a master, but have re-plumbed sections of a house I used to own.

[tubaguy9]

I'd have to reccomend the low temp silver solder (sta-silv?) and the nokorrode paste flux. I know the stay-silv comes with sta-clean flux that works pretty well. You can get some at home depot for @$10.

[jajorda2]

Thanks for the suggestions. Its just an older beater I'm playing around with to learn a few things.

Also, Bloke, the tiny "wow" makes me sad and comes with an air of disdain, I suspect.

[Cameron Gates]

Hey OP, if you have to ask this question AND value this project you should maybe have a tech do that soldering.

Put silver solder out of you mind for that joint.

Good luck.

[Dan Schultz]

Since it's a beater, just use 50/50 solder.

Any tubing? Yes, but probably not of any use other than practice.

Uh-oh. This will probably become another five-page thread about the use of leaded solder... like the nickel-alergy thread that's currently running.

But.... Ian's right. 'cept I use less than 30% lead when I can. Not because of health issues as much as it tends to migrate into silver finishes less.

BTW... use solid solder. Not some 'cored' stuff.

[toobagrowl]

BTW... use solid solder. Not some 'cored' stuff.

+1. I am still a novice at soldering, but I have noticed that it is very difficult to use the 'acid core' solder on my tubas. It tends to 'spit', and doesn't 'flow' quite as well as the solid core solder, leaving sloppy solder marks.
I use the tin/copper lead-free solder, which is already harder to work with than the lead-based solder.
The 'acid-core' lead-free solder is a bitch to work with I get better results from the solid solder with a little paste flux on the cleaned work-spot. I just need more practice with it; especially making sure the work-spot is CLEAN so the solder will wet/flow better.