Conn 20J

[eupher61]

well worth fixing up. IMO.

[PMeuph]

Tell him that it's worthless, then offer to buy it for $100.

[GC]

I'd grab it if I could. They have their quirks, but it's fun to have a horn that rattles a room if you barely breathe into it. Plus 20J's in good playing shape have remarkable false tones, so they can fill out the low register really well with only 3 valves. As for the bell, you can either turn the bell a bit or find an upright bell for it with a little luck (or a bit of cash). Kanstul even makes a bronze-alloy replacement bell for them.

And contrary to a lot of opinions, they're really not that hard to play standing up with a good strap. Twenty-eight pounds is not light, but it's not as heavy as a lot of big Sousaphones, and they balance well.

Lee Stofer told me a few years ago that the old big Conns play far better than a lot of people think if there are no major dents, and especially if the lead pipe and valve tubing are completely dent-free. I've owned three old Conns since then (BBb and Eb) and totally agree with him.

[eupher61]

Schlep, my Martin balances quite well on a BBC rest. it's a beautiful thing, and a lot easier to haul than a Tuba Tamer (which I also got). If you can get the thing cheap, and get it to one of the crazy repair gods, you'll have a beauty.

[TUBAD83]

Tell him that it's worthless, then offer to buy it for $100.

Grab it and repair it. Those old Conns are awesome!

JJ

[rodgeman]

My first tuba was a Conn 20J. I fixed it up and it played beautifully. However I did not get all of the money back I put into it. If you are going to keep it - fix it up. As far as the weight I balanced it on my leg. I do miss that horn every once in a while - but it found a good home.

Good luck!

[Ulli]

Oh yes, I'm living in Germany, and even I have a 20J
Such one with three reinforcement rips on the bell.
Ulli

[Bubba Blasen]

I have one and love it. I love the valves, and it plays BIG without expending tremendous effort. I don't play it on jobs as often as I used too because of the weight. It's an extra heavy 1946 silver plated one, and it only takes ONE time when the meeting planner says "OK boys, after the first set, you parade everybody to the Exhibition Hall, then keep marching around..." and you stop bringing it on gigs.

I'd go for it.
Best, Bubba

PS What is the Helicon in your photo?

[TUbajohn20J]

It's definitely worth fixing. My 20J is one of the best playing horns I have ever played. Here's a before and after comparison of my baby.

[The Big Ben]

That horn is presentable. It certainly has a few dents but not so many to make it play poorly. The bell could use some attention to improve its appearance. The dents on the stack would be easy for a pro to get in shape. If the valves are OK and it sounds OK, maybe the weight issue could be put under control with a Wenger stand. Using two tuning bits makes the placement of the mouthpiece adjustable to a certain degree.

This certainly would be better than a lot of choices people make buying something new and shiny. A good cleaning, a little bit of dent work and some polishing would improve the appearance. There is lots of life left in that horn.

[Donn]

The bell looks remarkably good to me, considering.

You mentioned a problem, it isn't playing well now?

I believe I've read comments about intonation. Similar story with the 20K (neither of which have I ever played, but I sometimes think I can hear it in a colleague's playing, on a 20K.) So ... what's up with all the testimonials? Did they change the 20J somewhere along the line? Is it just a minor defect that would only be an issue in advanced, legit ensemble performance? Could it happen because people are using the wrong mouthpiece, you're supposed to use a tuning bit, something like that?

[Dan Schultz]

Are you certain the bell isn't from a 20K (sousaphone)? From the pictures it looks like it points straight forward and would be very difficult to see around.

[TMurphy]

Are you certain the bell isn't from a 20K (sousaphone)? From the pictures it looks like it points straight forward and would be very difficult to see around.

I am no expert in these matters, but to my eyes, the lacquer on the bell, and on the rest of the horn do not *quite* match, suggesting the horn is older than the bell.

[Dan Schultz]

Are you certain the bell isn't from a 20K (sousaphone)? From the pictures it looks like it points straight forward and would be very difficult to see around.

I honestly don't know, it very well could be a sousa bell Ireckon. It does in fact point straight forward and is almost impossible to see around.

That's a sousaphone bell!

Well.... there you have it, folks. A definitive answer!

[sloan]

It's a bit funny how often my search for a recording bell for my 1934 36J leads to someone who tries to palm of a Sousaphone bell on me. In my opinion, the Sousaphone is the 4th choice from among the 3 options.

speaking of which....I'm still looking for a recording bell...surely *someone* who paid big bucks for
an upright bell has one in their basement collecting dust?

Failing that (throwing "historical accuracy" to the breeze - what's the *best* way to convert this beast to a FIXED upright bell? (I think the collar is the same size as a 2XJ, but I can't really guarantee that it's the same size at the bottom bow (learned that lesson the hard way with the top bow).

[Dan Schultz]

..... what's the *best* way to convert this beast to a FIXED upright bell? (I think the collar is the same size as a 2XJ, but I can't really guarantee that it's the same size at the bottom bow (learned that lesson the hard way with the top bow).

I don't know of a production bell that will replace the detachable bell and stack on a 2XJ other than perhaps something from Kanstul's current line of contra bugles.

I keep a large bell here but I don't think it's even close to what you need. Here are the specs:
18 1/2" flare
24" overall length
16" diameter circumference (5.093" dia) at small end.

[iiipopes]

If you do get it and decide to put a "real" 2XJ bell on it, whether upright or recording, please contact me. I have a friend who had his 20K souzy bell stolen (just the bell - long story) and he needs a bell. Thanks.

[TUBAD83]

Hi,
I have just got a Conn 20J (BBb, three valve, forward facing bell).
Can anyone please tell me where the serial number is? I have looked everywhere (I think!) and can't find one. Would like to try and date it & find out some more about it, has some lovely engraving on the bell.
Thanks, Jenny

Congrats Jenny!

Check on the valve casings and the on the collar.

JJ

[iiipopes]

Hi,
I have just got a Conn 20J (BBb, three valve, forward facing bell).
Can anyone please tell me where the serial number is? I have looked everywhere (I think!) and can't find one. Would like to try and date it & find out some more about it, has some lovely engraving on the bell.
Thanks, Jenny

Congrats Jenny!
Check on the valve casings and the on the collar.
JJ

And sometimes on the tops of the valves themselves.

[Closetgeek]

I probably should start something new, but this is the Tuba in question, so I figured I ask right here.

I have undergone something of a crash course in instrument value in the last year, but I got stumped a bit.

The Conn 20J was locally billed as some seriously rare instrument - but I am inclined to believe now that the article got it wrong in certain parts.

Searching for the instrument I came across pricing of 'is 2500 too much' to 1250 something plus free shipping.
Considering that a cheapish Susa phone costs 6-7k, or even Chinese build Tubas are not that cheap, this got me stumped.

(the local college marching band utilizes this type tuba in their shows, I am guessing the rareness stems from using this type rather than one that is more suited for mobility?)

Thanks for indulging the closet band geek.